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Old 09-27-2005, 05:53 PM   #21
onebluemcm
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Just reading through this in preparation for when mine decided to snap - got a quick question. Do you all know if that plastic piece the stud breaks off of is removable? Or, does the repair have to be done right down in the engine bay? The pics sleestak posted in the begining are great, just not quite close up enough for me to see what holds the piece onto the intake.... Just curious - seems like the repair would be easier if you could remove the piece and work on it off the car.
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Old 09-30-2005, 02:11 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by onebluemcm
Just reading through this in preparation for when mine decided to snap - got a quick question. Do you all know if that plastic piece the stud breaks off of is removable? Or, does the repair have to be done right down in the engine bay? The pics sleestak posted in the begining are great, just not quite close up enough for me to see what holds the piece onto the intake.... Just curious - seems like the repair would be easier if you could remove the piece and work on it off the car.
It comes right off, There are OEM replacements for these now.

I am not an authorized vendor here but I do have them, PM me.

If you are going to fix yours it is much easier to take it off to repair it. there is a small retainer that is a one time use part unless you are very careful. The new lever comes with two new retainers.

Last edited by FORDSVTPARTS; 09-30-2005 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 10-09-2005, 02:51 PM   #23
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Unhappy did the fix, but it's still broken

at 50k miles the plastic post broke and i heard the telltale noise of the dsi motor trying in vain to pull the switch to the smaller intake. i found this thread and performed the fix (great directions btw, thank you!) but when i cranked the car back up i heard the dsi motor try 3 or 4 times and then shut off, with the switch still all the way against the clockwise stop. with the clip disconnected from the new post i made, i can see the cable moving as the motor tries to pull the switch, so i think the motor is still good. i also disconnected the battery in case the computer was thinking the intake was in one position after the failure and needed to be reset. same results after reconnecting the battery. if the motor is working enough to pull the cable with no resistance, why wont it pull when i reconnect it to my new post? any ideas??
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Old 10-11-2005, 08:44 AM   #24
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problem solved, motor broke too

so i went ahead and pulled the actuator motor to troubleshoot...opened it up, and sure enough, the other end of the cable goes into a plastic piece too inside the actuator, and that had broken as well. points of interest: the actuator motor is very easy to get to if you just pop out the drivers side headlight. the motor is $150 from a dealer, and $80 from FORDSVTPARTS on this forum, who btw was very helpful....thanks!!

until i get the new motor, i've rigged a piece of the remaining cable to pull the dsi switch all the way forward, which is the position i understand it should be in for under 5000rpm operation (long runners). is this a good thing to do or should i just leave it alone and let the computer try to readjust?
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Old 10-12-2005, 10:27 AM   #25
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I don't think it really hurts anything to run the intake in the high speed position, other than your low end power and mileage that is.

I can't imagine that locking it into the low speed mode would hurt either since the car usually runs in that mode anyway.
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Old 10-13-2005, 04:37 PM   #26
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Re: problem solved, motor broke too

Quote:
Originally posted by burner
so i went ahead and pulled the actuator motor to troubleshoot...opened it up, and sure enough, the other end of the cable goes into a plastic piece too inside the actuator, and that had broken as well. points of interest: the actuator motor is very easy to get to if you just pop out the drivers side headlight. the motor is $150 from a dealer, and $80 from FORDSVTPARTS on this forum, who btw was very helpful....thanks!!

until i get the new motor, i've rigged a piece of the remaining cable to pull the dsi switch all the way forward, which is the position i understand it should be in for under 5000rpm operation (long runners). is this a good thing to do or should i just leave it alone and let the computer try to readjust?
Two notes I thought I would add:

1) How incredibly *stupid* of SVT to design this so that it is energized (pulling) 99% of the time the car is running...

2) There is at least one more mode of failure. Mine operates - the motor pulls the cable which moves the manifold, but the circuit inside the actuator does not give position feedback signal to the ECM, and it therfore turns on the check engine light every time you rev it.

That makes the following failures that I've heard of:
* Pin on manifold lever broken
* Clip on manifold end of cable broken
* Clip for cable inside the actuator broken
* Feedback pot inside actuator (or whatever it uses) bad
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Old 10-18-2005, 11:29 PM   #27
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I guess if you go with a CAI, then it wouldn't matter if the DSI clip is broken right?
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Old 10-19-2005, 06:27 PM   #28
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CAI has nothing to do with the Dual Stage Intake manifold.
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Old 10-25-2005, 10:15 AM   #29
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GREAT WRITE-UP!

Mine broke around 19,000 miles (27,000 now) but because it was still warr they fixed for free. (Got a whole new intake for that stupid part)

If it breaks after the warr is up.. at least I know how to fix it now!
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Old 10-25-2005, 03:34 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by ott
I guess if you go with a CAI, then it wouldn't matter if the DSI clip is broken right?
As was prevously mentioned, CAI has nothing to do with the DSI on the SVT.

The DSI system changes the intake runners to provide optimal runner length for both low end and high rpm power.

If the DSI fails the intake moves to the high rpm runners and kills your low end power.

You definitely want your DSI working if you are running the stock intake.
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