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Old 07-28-2005, 12:04 PM   #1
Caleb
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Tachdriver install help needed

how hard is it to install the ford racing tach driver? i have it sitting in my room but i dont know how long i should set aside to do it. can anyone who has installed it give me some advice, because the directions are a little confusing to me. Thanks.


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Old 07-29-2005, 02:09 PM   #2
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There are two ways to install the FordRacing tach driver -- either splice into the crank position sensor (on the engine) or splice into the wires at the harness at the PCM (which is what I recommend - that way you keep the wires from being exposed to the elements).

That said, do you not have the 2.0L Zetec? IIRC there is a PCM pinout that would let you tap directly into the tach signal from the PCM (which the newer duratecs don't have)?
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Old 07-29-2005, 02:13 PM   #3
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Which pin would you use on the ECU harnest ?

Pin number: function: color
21 crankshaft position sensor + wh/rd
22 crankshaft position sensor - bn/rd
85 camshaft position sensor signal / sensor sig rtn wh/vt - bn/wh
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Old 07-29-2005, 02:21 PM   #4
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IF you have the correct pinout for your vehicle, 21/22 (to install the tach driver, that is).
(If you are referring to the tach sig on the older Zetecs, I'd have to check)

Make sure that you have the pinout that is applicable to your year/engine.
BUT those wire colours seem correct, that's what mine were.

I'm won't be at work until Tues (long w/e) so I can't double check for you at the moment.

I used splice taps for mine, I installed a Stewart-Warner GUS (shift light) on my 2005 ST. Works great.
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Old 07-29-2005, 02:43 PM   #5
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Let us know how you connected(which pins) the tach driver to the ECU on the 2005 Focus.

This would be nice to know.
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Old 07-30-2005, 02:08 AM   #6
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This is a little more detail than you are asking for, but I'm supplying it for others.

Disclaimers:
-Now, this will work for the 2005 2.3L Duratecs.
-This is to hook up the Ford Racing tach driver (Part #M-17361-A200) that taps into the Crank Postion Sensor --- NOT the Autometer driver or any other that taps into the Coil-On-Plug (COP) system itself!!
-This worked for me, I was using Ford Wiring schematics (which I am not at liberty to repost here). That said, I assume no responsiblilty for damage caused by errors on my part or yours.

Okay

The PCM is located above the passenger side lower kickpanel.

Gently remove the trimpiece between the lower and upper a-pillar by pulling it out gently at the bottom, then pushing in the little catches (hooks) and the piece will slide down and out.



Gently unscrew the two slotted pushpins in the lower kickpanel, until they come all the way out. This will keep you from breaking the rather flimsy retainers and making the kickpanel squeeking or rattling after.

Once they are out, there is only a clip holding the kickpanel trim in. Also take note of how the piece it tucked in under the doorsill trim and the weatherstripping. Pull on the kickpanel piece straight toward the center of the car to dislodge the clip -- take note whether the clip is still there, or stuck in the hole, don't lose it.

Now you have access to the wiring behind the panel.

Now put your head down on the floor and look up behind the dash on the inside corner of the lower a-pillar. You'll see two modules.

The one with three big plugs with grey pieces on them is the PCM.



Now the plug we want is the furthest plug forward (C175e).

Now after of course disconnecting the battery, on the first plug gently pull down on the grey release lever. Make sure it comes down until the plug moves down. The plug will slide out.

Now look at the face of the plug so that the grey release lever is on top. There are 5 rows of pins (well sockets for pins). The pins are numbered RIGHT to LEFT. Looking at THE FACE OF THE PLUG.



11 xxxxxxxxxxx 1
23 xxxxxxxxxxxx 12

34 xxxxxxxxxxx 24
46 xxxxxxxxxxxx 35

50 x x x x 47

The pins we want are:

34 -- White/red stripe (third row, furthest pin left)
45 -- Brown/red stripe (fourth row, second last pin from left)



Use the split taps to tap the two sensor leads into these two wires. You may have to carefully remove some of the tape around the harness to the plug to get some slack to play with. If possible stagger the taps so when you tape the harness back up it's not so bulky.

[After you splice in, this would be a good time to test your tach if you have it already, before you put it all back together. Plug the harness in (described below), connect red to +, black to ground, green to the tach (I'm assuming your tach is hooked up as per its instructions), reconnect the battery, fire it up. If everything is good, shut off the engine, disconnect the battery, remove the plug]

When you're ready to go, tape the harness back up, make sure you tape the sensor wires well to the harness so they can't be pulled out easy.

Plug the harness back in. Notes-- orient the plug so that the grey release lever is inboard. Slide the plug in until it stops. When it stops, lift the release lever up, until the plug is fully seated and it locks into place.

Now, personally, I bundled the wires and 3M double-face taped the driver to the face of the GEM module ( the module piggy backed on the PCM). This made the install a bit neater.



Reinstall the kickplate. Orient it into position, you have to fit the tab into the slot with the clip, firmily seat it. Make sure you slide the bottom part under the sillplate, and free up the door weatherstripping. Install the pins, push them straight in rather than screwing them in.

Reinstall the trim between the upper and lower a-pillar pieces by hooking the piece onto the top and pushing it in at the bottom to lock.

If you're not installing the tach right away, make sure you tape up the red, green and black wires (separately) so you don't short the unit out (and possibly take the PCM and/or CPS with it).

Trust me when I say that the process is almost as fast as it is to read this, and was waaaaaaay faster than it took me to type this.

It took me about 15-20 minutes the first time through.


Last edited by OAC_Sparky; 08-03-2005 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 07-30-2005, 02:00 PM   #7
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ok, will all this info u just gave, which is very very good by the way, will it work on my spi. i need to know before i go pulling things out. thanks
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Old 07-30-2005, 02:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by Caleb
ok, will all this info u just gave, which is very very good by the way, will it work on my spi. i need to know before i go pulling things out. thanks
No, not likely; I would have to look up the wiring for your specific vehicle next week (when I'm at work), these directions are for the 2005 Duratecs.

I think the PCM for the older ECUs have a tach output and you don't need the driver. The 2005 Duratecs do not have this output, that is why the driver is needed.
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Old 07-30-2005, 03:11 PM   #9
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I felt obligated to post this from [Focal-Jet]

Quote:
Generally, installing a tachometer on a Focus is no big deal. Most tachs use the same basic electrical design and connect in the same manner. The tach in the link should work with no problems really. There appear to be three ways to get this tach to work from the description. The inductive option is most interesting because it could potentially make the install a breeze.

Inductive Pickup:
If the inductive pickup feature they list is any good, you can skip buying the tach driver completely. Basically, you put the inductive clamp around the coil (-)negative wire and it "reads" the electrical field to generate a signal. Same basic principle as a timing light.

Hard Wire Method:
To use a hard wire method, you connect directly to the coil (-)negative wire and the tach uses the direct signal from the coil. Remember, our cars are Coil On Plug (COP), and with COP, you have one coil for one cylinder, so the tach will see the engine as a one cylinder, not a four cylinder. If you choose to hardwire, make sure you can set the tach for a one clinder configuration.

Tach Driver Method:
Tach Drivers convert the 36 minus 1 crank trigger signal into a readable tach signal. Here's the catch, the tach signal replicates a V8 with a single coil. Installing a tach driver is not too difficult, and it's a guaranteed way to get a tach working. The only downfall is that it does add to the cost of the tach install.
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Old 07-30-2005, 03:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Foci_Fosho
I felt obligated to post this from [Focal-Jet]
Without knowing which tach the person is going to install, it's hard to give generic directions.

BUT, based on my personal experience

1) I haven't seen too many inductive pickups on tach, they aren't that common (Equus and a few others have them) and you have to run wires to the engine compartment. 90% of tachs on the market come with 3 (or 4) wires -- hot, ground, tach (and lighting). That's it. If you're lucky enough you'll have a "Tach Test" terminal, an old style coil, etc to hook the signal up to, it's easy.

2) Hard wire. As (1)above. However, the Autometer tach driver splices into the COP system.

3) Tach driver. The reason I am posting the way to hook this up from inside the car is because the Ford Racing instructions suggest you run the wires to beneath the car and splice into the wires from the CPS (at the CPS). The inherent danger to this is that (especially to someone like myself in the electrical field) this greatly increases the chance of exposing wires to the elements, and greatly increasing the chance for a failure or malfunction.

All it takes is enough space and a little salt water (for thos of us in the northern parts) and a little electricity, and voilą , corrosion city. And you DON"T want to be cruising down the road when you lose your CPS signal.
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