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Old 05-18-2005, 09:04 PM   #1
Kenpo_zx3
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2000 intake manifold

Is the install like a so-called bolt on? How difficult is it. I can't find anything on it.


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Old 05-19-2005, 10:12 AM   #2
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I would call it a bolt-on but it is a little more work than most. Not really difficult just more involved getting everything removed. Not sure but I'll look and see if I can find something on it.
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:40 AM   #3
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Awhile back myzx3.com had a how-to on installing the 2k IM. Their page was all messed up so I downloaded it and fixed the html formatting. They have since removed this how-to but I kept my copy. Here at least is the text from that how-to:

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Notes before starting:

* This install was done with no exhaust at all (header, cat, flex, etc.), so I'm not sure if components will be in your way.
* Your going to need a nice set of tools, including an extensive ratchet set. It would be great to have a long and short of the following: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm. You're also going to need a Torx set for the throttle body. You can cheat by using a perfectly sized flathead screwdriver if you're lucky.
* With this install, there are a few different options you can take along the way. I will point these out and the reader can make the decision as to what is best for him or her.

Steps:

1. Remove battery cover and disconnect negative side of battery.
Option 1: You can either leave the fuel line connected to the fuel rail, or you can disconnect it for more space during the install. If you do decide to disconnect the fuel line, here are the steps:
Click to Enlarge
* Unclip white plastic clip at the passenger side end of the fuel rail and gently pull fuel line off. *NOTE* Have some towels ready because gas will come out a little
* Unscrew 2 screws holding on the black end piece of the fuel rail and remove. *NOTE* Removing this will just make moving the fuel rail around easier because of the wiring on this piece.

2. Unscrew the 2 screws that hold down the fuel rail. These screws face downward and towards the front end of the car - in a diagonal fashion if you want to call it.
3. Take 2 flathead screwdrivers and gently wedge out the fuel injectors.
4. Remove grounding bracket.
Option 2: You can either remove the throttle body now, or leave it on during the install. Removing it now will, once again, give more space and make things alittle easier. Either way, here are the steps:
Click to Enlarge
* Unscrew the top 4 Trox screws on the throttle body
* Remove TPS
* Unscrew 3 bracket screws along the side of the throttle body
* Disconnect throttle cable
5. Unplug all the sensors and vacuum lines from the intake manifold. There should be about 9 things to unplug if I remember correctly.
*NOTE* At first, you may think that Ford is really stupid for making a different locking mechanism for all these clips, but when putting back on, it really helps. Only one sensor will plug back into another so you can't screw up when reconnecting everything
Click to Enlarge
6. Now you are ready to remove the manifold bolts. There are 10 blots to remove: 2 from the EGR, 2 on the EGR bracket, 2 on the top of the manifold next to the runners, 1 on the passenger side of the manifold next to the runners, 2 on the bottom of the manifold next to the runners and 1 on the top passenger side of the manifold.
*NOTE* Do yourself a favor and don't lose or damage the EGR gasket
Click to Enlarge
Option 3: There is a clearance issue with the passenger side intake manifold stud. There is two things you can do - either remove the stud from the block or pivot the alternator. If you decide to pivot the alternator, follow these steps:
* Remove brake fluid and coolant reservoirs off their brackets and move off to the side. *NOTE* Relocating these will allow you to reach the belt tensioner and alternator a lot easier. Don't worry about anything spilling - its all sealed.
* Loosen the belt tensioner and remove the belt off the alternator.
* Loosen the two bolts on the alternator. They are gold in color and both face to the passenger side of the car; one towards the front middle and the second towards the bottom back of the alternator.
* Remove the front middle bolt completely (this will allow the alternator to "pivot" on the back bolt). Use a pry bar or large flathead screwdriver to "pivot" the alternator towards the firewall.
7. Now there will be 1 or 2 (depending on what you decided in Option Three) studs from the engine block still holding up the manifold. Remove the manifold.
8. Take a clean shop rag or something and clean up the block surface and such.
9. Once you get the old manifold off and the new one ready, inspect the back of both of them. On the 2000 manifold, there actually could be one extra vacuum hole than manifolds from other years. If there is an extra hole, epoxy shut. ALso, transfer metal piece on the back of old manifold to the new one

Click to Enlarge
10. Put the new manifold on those two studs
11. Bolt down the new manifold including the EGR as well. *NOTE* Do not use a lot of torque on this plastic manifold - it will break. Tighten bolts till they feel fairly firm to the hands. This will 1) make sure the plastic does not break and 2) will not create any vacuum leaks. *NOTE* Do not put the EGR bolts in the wrong way. Make sure they start from the drivers side and move in towards the block. This mistake alone could set you back an hour or so to get them off.
12. Optional: If you took the alternator route than follow these instructions:
* Pivot the alternator back and bolt back into place. *NOTE* The alternator may have fell back alittle and it may be hard to find the threads for that bolt. What works for this problem if it happens to you is to gradually tap the alternator back slowly and eventually find that thread
* Loosen belt tensioner and place belt back on
* Place brake and coolant reservoirs back on the brackets /li>
13. Reconnect all the sensors and vacuum lines on the new manifold
14. Place fuel rail back in place and gently push the injectors back in place
15. Screw down the 2 screws to the fuel rail
16. Optional: If you decided to disconnect the fuel line, then follow these steps:
* Place that black fuel line sensor back on to the end of the fuel rail and screw the two screws back in
* Reconnect fuel line with white plastic clip to the fuel rail
17. Reconnect your throttle body by placing the bracket back on with the three screws and screwing back down with the 4 Torx screws. Replace TPS and throttle cable as well
18. Reconnect battery and replace battery cover.
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Old 05-20-2005, 02:12 AM   #4
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Wow thanks a lot.
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Old 05-20-2005, 10:21 AM   #5
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be sure to get a good set of tools plus someone to help you...
also be ready to buy gasket...you might need them...
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Old 05-20-2005, 04:48 PM   #6
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I would replace the gasket anyway. I had to have mine replaced.
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Old 05-21-2005, 02:39 AM   #7
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thanks i will do that
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