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Old 07-24-2014, 04:37 PM   #1
Ryankindred24
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ford racing pnp head fr stage 3 cams

I picked up a brand new still in box ford racing head a while back with the stage 3 cams, and now the time has come to do the install but other than gaskets and arp hardware I was told ill need to have new "tappets" installed before I go about putting the cams and head on, how do I know what size tappets to order? Any info would be helpful; thanks


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Old 07-24-2014, 04:47 PM   #2
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Parts I have:
pnp head
Stage3cams
New copper plugs
gates racing belt
massive timing kit
1frpp adj. Cam gear (need the second)
Jab ceramic header
Stainless steel head gasket measures . 077 thick (prally gonna go with oem)
massive cam bolts
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:52 PM   #3
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the tappets or buckets are not known until you have the head assembled you need to set the valve "lash" per spec (don't have it in front of me). There is no way of knowing until you assemble the whole head and measure clearances. usually people can get away with using all the stock ones still and just move them around as needed.

Stage 3 you will likely still need to clearance the head for the lobes? not sure if the FRP head had the extra clearance needed.

Also you will want the Crower springs and retainers. there may be some head work for the springs to seat correctly.

Also can I say I wish you had just left that head on my front porch when I was doing my rebuild.... that is a very rare commodity now days.
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Old 07-24-2014, 05:39 PM   #4
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You for sure want to use the stock head gasket

Tom
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Old 07-24-2014, 07:54 PM   #5
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Thats a big 10-4 on the oem headgasket Tom . Magnus2727 from what I remember the frpp stage 3s are as big as you can go without having issues with clearance 'on the frpp pnp head'? Also the heads already assembled as far as valves and springs/retainers so ill b leaving that alone, why do you say use crower? In also not to sure on how to go about having the tappets installed, ( I just graduated m.b.t.t.c on full scholarship for percision machine work w / 4 nims credentials ) so im comfortable with anything mechanical, should I just take it to a machine shop or do it myself?
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Old 07-24-2014, 09:27 PM   #6
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Not sure on the ford racing spring rates but as far as I know (at least that's available now) are Crower spring rates. With the larger lobe you want the higher spring rates otherwise you may get valve float at higher rpms. You will want to install the cams check the clearances by turning the cams by hand. Nothing is guaranteed since the area that needs clearances is typically not a post machined surface so the tolerances are not held as tight.

IIRC Ford Racing only made up to a stage 3....

You may want to look at C-F-M's billet oil pump since you will be going up and sustaining higher RPM's.
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Old 07-25-2014, 03:08 AM   #7
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IIRC the FR III's were a Crower old grind II ... which did fit W/O clearancing the head. The Crower III"s did need to be clearanced.


Tappets are easy, espically for a kid with a machining degree. It's simply measuring clearances when the lobe isn't touching the tappet. Simple feeler gauge and go through 1 by 1 using the same tappet for all.

Here is a nice little chart someone made up --> http://forums.focaljet.com/mk-i-tech...ent-chart.html

Clearance for the intake: 0.004 - 0.007 inches
Clearance for the exhaust: 0.011 - 0.013 inches

And keep in mind that a tighter clearance will add duration just slightly. But you need to asses whether or not you're building an endurance racer or a 1 hit pony. Heat will cause that clearance to be reduced. So for an endurance racer, you want to stay on the big end to avoid issues. A drag racer can get by on the tight end.
And those are just recommendations. You can go even tighter if you really want. You just have to understand what you're doing. And I think you'd get the idea.
Also, what viscosity of oil you'll be using. A larger clearance will want a thicker oil to quiet down (there is also a parasitic loss with a thicker oil, takes more HP to push a higher viscosity).


Don't get confused with actually measuring every tappet. If you just go by the numbers on the underside you'll be just fine. ... if you read through that thread you'll find that people have measured them and the numbers don't correspond always. I attribute that to error in the measuring tool/user error and not on Ford's part.


It's time consuming and sucks. But it's not something you have to do but once. So do it right the first time and forget about how long it took and how stupid of a design a mechanical valvetrain is and that they should have just gone hydraulic and that would have cut down on the NVH complaints but a shitload.
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:59 PM   #8
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Hey iminhell[QUOTE]Clearance for the intake: 0.004 - 0.007 inches
Clearance for the exhaust: 0.011 - 0.013 inchesQUOTE]
Did you get this from ford?
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:50 PM   #9
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Dont see ARP head studs in the list ?

Tom
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Old 08-29-2014, 09:11 PM   #10
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I do have them tho^ b.n.i.b from cfm along with the f.r. oil pump ( couldn't afford the cfm billet gear), along with some other goodies, good time to chime in tho tom, I was just thinking of p.Ming u about my tune! What all do you need on my part aside from the $$? Thanks
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