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Old 04-19-2014, 06:01 PM   #1
qdeezie
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Cruise Control Diagnostic Question

Out of the blue, my cruise control stopped working today. I tried this diagnostic procedure, but the cruise control light is not coming on at all to start the diagnostic test.

Also, I checked the brake lights and all of the brake lights work when the ignition switch is turned to the run position, which I believe is normal. (They do not come on when the switch is off.)

It could be possible that I'm not doing the diagnostic procedure the right way, but at this point, I'm a bit stumped on what it could be.

Do you think that maybe it's the brake or clutch switch that might be causing it?

I'm open to hearing what anyone has to say.


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Old 04-19-2014, 06:49 PM   #2
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I'll take a guess at the Clutch switch, since that's the most common failure & is fairly easy to test. (also noted that's NOT one of the failure codes listed)

Clutch pedal works TWO switches, one for the starting safety interlock, the other to disengage cruise control. When the pedal doesn't activate the top switch, cruise won't engage (no light).

Broken clutch return spring so the pedal won't always activate the switch is at LEAST as common as the switch going bad I'd guess BTW. Had that problem creating an intermittent Cruise when I got mine.

If the switch is properly in place (the next most common problem) and the pedal activates it, pull the connector & check for continuity as you cycle the switch (clutch up & down enough to activate it).

IIRC it needs to make contact (close the circuit, get continuity) when the pedal is up. Either way (if memory is backwards) you need to see it open & close as the pedal is moved.

Luck!
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Old 04-19-2014, 08:15 PM   #3
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Thank you for the suggestion.

I went out and checked the clutch pedal and it looks like it's in place and working properly as far as engaging/disengaging is concerned.

I pulled the switch off the bracket and it doesn't move as smoothly as I would like for it to move, so that might be it.

I'll be ordering one for the clutch to see if it works. It looks to be fairly inexpensive. I might be picking a new one up for the brakes as well.
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:09 PM   #4
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Could be it if it doesn't operate smoothly.

Cheap Meter (VOM) from Harbor Freight or Radio Shack will pay for itself fast. You can often find one adequate for basic tests in the 10-15$ range. Better ones are useful, but it doesn't hurt to get experience with the most basic for simple tests.

If my guess is right (makes contact when pedal is up), bridging the wires at the connector with a paper clip would get it working - but it wouldn't turn off without hitting the brake or a steering wheel control.

That's the emergency fix for the clutch safety switch by the way, only caveat for either is to make sure it can't touch metal & short out (tape up if leaving it for a while, or tuck away in a safe place for a short test).

I'm pretty sure both work the same way, you wouldn't want either to default to the "On" position when inoperative!

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Old 04-22-2014, 11:42 PM   #5
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Pull the clutch pedal up with the tip of ur shoes while driving bet u the cc works
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Old 11-04-2014, 09:16 PM   #6
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Bringing this thread back.

Can someone tell me what size the two bolts are that hold the airbag onto the steering wheel? I tried a few small deep metric sockets tonight and none seemed to fit. Is it something obscure like 5.5 or 6.5? Or maybe a standard size got slipped into the mix?

I'd like to replace my cruise control switches on the steering wheel.

I replaced the brake and clutch cancel switches since they were cheap and the cruise still isn't working, so I am replacing the steering wheel switch. I sure hope it's not that module behind the engine.
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Old 11-04-2014, 10:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qdeezie View Post
Can someone tell me what size the two bolts are that hold the airbag onto the steering wheel?
They are 5.5mm or 7/32".
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Old 11-04-2014, 11:27 PM   #8
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Thank you very much! I'll be off to the parts store in the morning to grab a 5.5.
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Old 11-05-2014, 09:12 PM   #9
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The good news is the 5.5 worked like a charm and I got the switch replaced.

The bad news is my cruise still isn't working.

Assuming that something didn't go bad with the wiring, the only thing left is that module box (not sure of the name yet) behind the engine, right?

I've replaced the steering wheel switch, brake switch and clutch switch. Is there anything else I should look for?
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Old 11-05-2014, 09:29 PM   #10
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Possibly the ribbon cable on the clockspring has gone south?
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