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Old 04-19-2014, 08:20 PM   #11
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You might as well just drain and refill the trans with fresh fluid for a full fluid change instead of mixing old fluid with new fluid.
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Old 04-19-2014, 08:57 PM   #12
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You might as well just drain and refill the trans with fresh fluid for a full fluid change instead of mixing old fluid with new fluid.
Good idea. I'm going to go ahead and do a comprehensive write-up, for my own entertainment. I'll be taking photos of everything and documenting each step I go through.
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Old 04-21-2014, 03:28 PM   #13
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Change of plans on the writeup, my father wanted to help out and so it wasn't ideal to document. The driver's side strut is done, that wasn't too bad. The passenger side started with noticing the tie rod is bent. The strut is proving difficult to get out, it seems like the suspension has less droop on the passenger side. The knuckle won't pivot like it would on the driver's side, so the strut doesn't have clearance to come out. Hoping separating the knuckle from the control arm will do the trick.

Edit: That did it. Strut is out, axle is free, now I just need to remove the two bolts at the carrier bearing and pull the shaft out. I'm very tempted to do the driver's side axle, simply because it's easier to replace while the passenger side is out. Thoughts?

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Old 04-21-2014, 05:55 PM   #14
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Enough on your hands now there's a bent tie rod to deal with.

Do the driver's side axle if the boots look bad, your call how much to get into otherwise.
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Old 04-22-2014, 12:06 AM   #15
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Everything is back together. Tranny is drained, will need to head to the dealer to pick up 3 qts of gear oil and the engine mount, then I'll be digging into that. Seems like that will be fairly easy. As for the bent tie rod, I'm still hunting down parts and learning what I need to do. Everything is working fine for now and the car doesn't get driven, so it can be left until I have more info.
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Old 04-22-2014, 12:21 AM   #16
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2 qts will do, they changed the spec. to just under the fill hole so 2.1 isn't needed.

I'd prob. fill it 'till it came out myself, but you Could get away with 2 as long as you get it all in there.
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Old 04-22-2014, 02:20 PM   #17
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I'll go with two. There's got to be .1 qt residual fluid in there. Just got back from the Stealership, almost $200 for two quarts of fluid and an engine mount. Apparently the dogbone mount was redesigned just slightly enough to warrant a bracket change, so they got me for $80 for the mount and another $50 for the bracket. Some parts online I was seeing also included a bracket. They "cut me a deal" on the fluid -- $21 a quart instead of the $36 their system told them to charge. Sounds like other Focus owners have been paying $21 a quart, too.
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Old 04-22-2014, 03:42 PM   #18
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That'll work.

BTW - there are some recent active threads on the inner tie rod removal. Some used special tools, others made do and/or ground flats on the old one to ease removal. IIRC the passenger side was the easier one to access, check those out for options & details.
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Old 04-22-2014, 05:07 PM   #19
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That'll work.

BTW - there are some recent active threads on the inner tie rod removal. Some used special tools, others made do and/or ground flats on the old one to ease removal. IIRC the passenger side was the easier one to access, check those out for options & details.
I'll check them out, thanks. What I've found out so far led me to purchase an OEM Tie Rod Removal Tool, which is basically a U-bolt clamp with a 3/8 ratchet slot that should work well on the tie rod. This tool was suggested by others who couldn't find a way to grab theirs. I've replaced two of the three engine mounts, will probably post later on today with my results of this ordeal.
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:36 PM   #20
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All of the engine mounts are done, so the initial project is completed. The only issue worth noting is that the new bracket for the new OE mount is threaded differently than the old. The old was an M10-1.50, and the new seems to be a 7/16x3 (if that's not the size, I apologize. Don't remember off the top of my head). It is a standard bolt though, not metric. VERY ODD, in my opinion, to change to a standard bolt.
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