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Old 04-26-2014, 11:33 PM   #41
2005focuszx3
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Got bored, so I did some work.

So, I decided I couldn't run open downpipe forever... I went the "lazy" but effective route. Instead of measuring bents and whatnot between the downpipe and the exhaust hook up, I went to autozone and picked up this 2.5" flexible pipe. I love this stuff because it's easy to use. Sure it looks tacky, but it will be under the car, so it won't be seen. Anyhow, I adapted the 2.25" flange that hooks to my exhaust (donated from a Subaru) to fit the 2.5" pipe. I had to clamp the flex pipe in because it's either really really thin stainless, or it's aluminum. Either way, my welder melts right through it. SO... I'll just post pictures for you guys to enjoy, as usual.

Here's what I used for flex pipe. I bought this and a second clamp. Total was $3.36 because I had a rewards card with $9.61 laying around from a return.



Here you can compare my arc welds to the tig welds I had done before (back when I had access to one) I finally got in the groove running that welder, and just went crazy and started welding everything.



Here's my 2.5" adapted flange, next to my $100 dollar Harbor Freight special (welder)



Here's the whole pipe welded and clamped up:



All that's left to do is fill in these holes that I accidentally scorched through the metal. Arc welders are VERY hot machines and it takes a careful hand to not burn through stuff. I know a guy with a little MIG welder, and that might do the trick, just turn it to the lowest setting and fill the holes with weld.



So now, I just have to get brave and drill a hole in my oil pan and buy the appropriate fittings and a drain hose. Aside from finalizing the cold side piping that is.

Feel free to let me know what you think! I'm open to constructive criticism.
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Old 04-27-2014, 02:21 PM   #42
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Bolted some stuff together...

So I finally went to ACE to get the random nuts and bolts I needed for everything to be put together. This should fix all of my exhaust leaks beside the one at the turbo housing due to bad welds.

SO. Because I was able to bolt everything together, I decided to do just that, and take some pictures for you guys. I'm not sure I'm going to keep that charge pipe like that (the black one) because I think it's going to hit the firewall, but at least it will give you an idea of what's going on.




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Old 04-28-2014, 09:47 PM   #43
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Baseline Dyno

Okay guys, this is an old video of my car when it was pretty much stock. Only real mods were EGR delete and intake. Mind you this is an AUTO car, so the numbers are low, and I know I had a small vacuum leak post MAF.

Correction to my ignorance: The car downshifted on the last run, it didn't "spin". that's why it only made 53 hp. Driver got out of it and started a new run.

Enjoy!

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Old 05-01-2014, 01:27 AM   #44
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THE CAR RUNS AND DRIVES! Few bugs to work out though...

So I installed the whole kit today! I bypassed the wastegate so I don't go into boost, and am running the stock tune. The turbo "boosts" at -20mm HG haha. it feels a tad bit peppier, but it's REALLY loud because the screamer pipe is open. Had a few issues, mostly with oiling. My sandwich plate didn't fit, and that was a big disappointment. However, I rigged up something that will work for now. Later I will go to the hardware store and get fittings and properly attach the feed line. Right now it's attached via an old oil filter, see pics. I'll just let the pictures do the rest of the talking tonight...

First I remounted the intercooler:



Then I ran all the piping for the cold side. Never had to cut a single pipe! They all fit perfectly.



BOV with piping to the stock MAF and housing.



Turbo mounted with downpipe unbolted.



I finally got the downpipe hooked into the exhaust system.



Kit installed:



Here's the turbo compressor outlet piping:



Oil drain line from turbo:



Rigged up oil feed. It doesn't leak, so I'm not complaining...



Drain fitting. I went RTV heavy so it wouldn't leak, but it still leaks. That's on my list to fix asap.



That's all I have for now! I'll post a video of it running tomorrow. I also need to rebuild the turbo because it smokes pretty badly...
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:59 PM   #45
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Video of the car running and a few revs.

Okay guys, as promised here's a quick clip of the car running. Its pretty loud right now because the wastegate is bypassed, so the screamer pipe is open. Anyway, ENJOY!

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Old 05-03-2014, 01:06 PM   #46
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Got the motor exchanged!

Went to the yard and they exchanged the motor hassle free. They even let me keep some of the parts off the first engine (oil pan, lifter buckets, injectors, and fuel rail) Extra bonus is that his new motor came with even more parts than the other one. I got a full wiring harness and some extra pulleys.

BAD news, the motor tipped over in the back of the truck on the way home and broke the valve cover open. So I got to spend most of the day cleaning oil out of the back of the truck, and I have to find a new valve cover. I guess there are worse things though!
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:45 PM   #47
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Back to building the motor

Alright guys, I haven't posted here in a while, but figured I might as well now! Finals week at school had me pretty busy, but since that mess is done, I can start work on the project. Sorry to say I don't have any pictures with this update because the motor teardown was really straightforward aside from a very stubborn crankshaft bolt. The inside of the motor looks beautiful, and it looks like the waterpump and thermostat were either recently replaced or are in great shape either way. (motor has 78K on it) Anyway, I start my summer job next week, so cash flow should start soon. First thing on the list is pistons. I'm looking at Supertech pistons, and am probably going to run the same compression as stock, if not a tad more. I read a thread on a miata forum that said if you shave .010" off a miata 1.6 head, you'll pick up approximately .25:1 compression. Granted the miata 1.6 has a much different bore:stroke ratio... I still think this rule of thumb should be pretty close to the 2.0 Duratec.

Now for the plans on this engine:
Of course it's getting all forged internals, and some stage 2 or 3 cams, plus some other goodies like EGR delete and some massive speed stuff. However, I have a favor to ask of some local Houston guys. IF ANYONE IN THE HOUSTON AREA HAS A SPARE VALVE COVER (PREFERABLY ALUMINUM) PLEASE LET ME KNOW! The plastic valve cover cracked open when transporting the motor home. I had to hit a very big bump, there was no avoiding it. The motor tipped over out of the tire it was cradled in and landed on the valve cover. BACK TO THE PLANS: I'll either build this motor and test it in my own car and break it in for a few hundred miles, then sell it (probably won't even get my money out of it) OR I can go with the "better" more fun plan... That plan would be to get a 1989-1998 Mazda Miata (NA body style) and do an engine swap. For all you people who want to do rear wheel drive Duratec powered stuff, the six speed transmission from the NC Miatas bolt up. The NC Miata is actually powered by a VVT version of the 2.0 Duratec found in the Focus. Someone correct me if this is wrong information. But then the plan would be to drop this forged and built motor into an NA Miata and do a six speed swap so the motor has something to bolt to. Then I'll throw in a limited slip differential and turbo it. The only real question is whether to run a full standalone, or go to a junkyard and rip out a Focus ECU and wire harness etc.

I'll let my rant be over now so you guys can stop reading
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:53 PM   #48
2005focuszx3
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Hey guys, I've got the OEM Pistons, rings, rods, bearings, and rod bolts for sale in the sale/trade section, and on eBay. PM me for more info. Asking $150 and will ship to the 48 continental states
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Old 05-12-2014, 03:48 PM   #49
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I really hope this is a joke or I'm looking at something wrong,

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Do it correct, or do it twice.
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:14 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell View Post
I really hope this is a joke or I'm looking at something wrong,

No, unfortunately that isn't a joke. I never tested my sandwich plate adapter to see if it fit. It didn't. I had seen this on a Honda forum (leave it to those guys, they're crafty bastards) and it worked for them with no issues. Mine didn't leak at all and fed enough oil. Don't worry, I didn't keep it that way. The kit has been removed and the car is NA again.
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