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Old 04-06-2014, 11:20 PM   #11
Fierceintent
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zxr250cc View Post
I have been reading many different posts about the timing belt job and also seen a lot of photos from several different forums, in here and at SVT Performance and others... It would be great to see a copy of the original Ford tech manual for their take on this job. User hints are always welcome... It looks like I will be doing this alone. I asked a local dealer with SVT trained mechanics about the cost of changing the belt. They wanted $774 for the labor and the belt only, no other parts quoted. That is clearly a crazy estimate for this work.
My local shop did it and the labor was $409.56 cents. thats for timing belt kit/water pump, asc belt/tensioner/idler. Also new valve cover gasket n camshaft oil seals... I read on here about the seals but my mechanic recommended it because he said if your there might aswell do it. also got an a/c service. I could of saved a few bucks on parts though if i order through steve, Thing is I will be leaving for Texas and didn't want to bother with it. Hopefully my car makes the 1,600 trip w/o a hitch :D
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:47 AM   #12
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If you follow the instructions on this forum it isn't that bad to do just takes a while. I replaced the timing belt, drive belt, water pump, tensioners, etc though it took me a little more than a weekend to do. I was also pretty inexperienced when I did the job a couple years ago. At the time, the hardest thing I ever did was replace the clutch master cylinder when it was leaking brake fluid onto the clutch pedal so was a bit of a challenge and learning experience for me.

It sounds like you have a lot of experience working on the car so you should be fine.
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:03 PM   #13
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So far I have done the rear shocks, the rear sway bar bushings, the front sway bar links, the lower and passenger side motor mounts and the front struts. I have polyurethane bushings for the front sway bar but have not mounted them yet. I think I need to have a lift to do that. All the other work has been with a ramp or jack stands and a two ton jack,

I am now down to the serious stuff: I need to change the timing belt soon.

I went for a ride on a very rough and potholed country road today and the improvement from the new struts/shocks and the changed bushings/mounts was quite dramatic. I no longer have any 'squirk' noise from the front end and the replaced (OEM were worn out) sway bar links have added a quicker and more direct sensation to the steering. I am still convinced the changed lower motor mount has been the most dramatic improvement but all the work has been a good thing to do and the car feels a lot better with the new parts. Tomorrow I will get the wheels aligned and then plan the timing belt work for the next week when time permits. It is great to have the car updated for its' 10th Anniversary with me.
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Old 04-17-2014, 06:18 AM   #14
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Awesome good to hear! It's such a good feeling to get caught up on maintenance and feel the difference in the car. I did a suspension overhaul recently on my car and it felt so much better.
And then I took it to rallycross and ruined it.
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Old 04-17-2014, 01:08 PM   #15
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The economics of this 10th Anniversary update cycle so far:

Ford Racing full shock/strut kit with new strut mounts and bearings $200
After market passenger side hydraulic motor mount $35
Polyurethane lower motor mount bushings $34
Labor to press out old bushing inserts and mount lower motor mount $40
Rear and front sway bar polyurethane bushings $21
Gates Racing timing belt $55
Gates serpentine belt $28
New Airtek water pump with 0-ring $35
Moog sway bar links to front strut $41/pr.
Teflon based silicone grease for the rear bushings $10
Cam tool for keeping the cams aligned when changing the timing belt $30
Metric Allen wrench set to use with OEM sway bar links and top strut bolt $3
18 mm socket, 16 mm socket, 16 mm wrench, 18 mm wrench from pawn shop $8
Adjustable camber bolt set for rear suspension (not mounted yet) $22
E-18 socket from pawn shop $1
T-55 Torx socket $5
4 wheel alignment $70

A lot of the parts were bought on line from a popular site since they were cheaper than local shops for the same brands. I was not broken down and having to fix it right now when buying the parts. I bought them before starting the work.

You will note that the only labor fee was for the lower motor mount since I did not have a hydraulic press and have a mechanic friend who owns one.

Still needed to buy:

Tensioner pulley and idler pulley for timing belt ~$35 for the pair
Transmission upper mount $25

I also changed my tires and made a change in the aspect ratio at the same time but I will discuss that in a different thread, maybe... I suspect my choice there would not be popular with most of you since I am using this as a daily driver and not an auto cross car. I use this car for road trips also and wanted reliable tires that could handle many different types of weather including ice and snow that has been very common in the Tulsa area this cold, wet and nasty winter.

Cheers all...

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Old 04-17-2014, 09:41 PM   #16
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I like the updates...keep us posted.
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Old 04-17-2014, 11:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zxr250cc View Post
I have not bought one yet but intend to change the upper transmission mount with the same OEM type again. Suggestions on the best brand after market part for this position would be welcomed. (Not polyurethane in this location...)

I am planning to add a strut bar to reinforce the front strut towers as well in the next month or so as my budget permits.

I changed the rear sway bar bushings to polyurethane and that was an easy and positive change. The rear is not finished yet as I am trying to decide between polyurethane bushings or just change out the upper and lower link with new OEM style parts.

I have the polyurethane bushings for the front sway bar but I will need to get the car up in the air on a lift to work with that. I am doing this work with ramps/jack stands and a 2 ton jack at present.

I have bought Moog adjustable bolts for the rear upper link

I bought the Gates T294RB timing belt and water pump kit

I really like the HID lights and the fog/driving lightsd.
i agree it was probably hte sway bar end links causing the noise.

get the actual Ford engine mount. all the aftermarket parts fail in short time.

a strut tower bar in the front will do little as the firewall is so close. If budget is tight, you can skip that part.

make sure your poly swaybar busshings are well lubed, or else they may start squeeking in a few thous miles. rubber bushing almost self lubricate.

good call on getting the timing belt done. ensure the kit has all the proper tensioners.

the HID lights are amazing. I reccomend jumping two wires together so you high beams come on with the low beams and it activates the "bi-xenon" part where the cutoff shield moves.
here. http://www.ofoc.ca/hid/step05.html
I've traced the wiring digram. It isnt a dangerous hack, everything is still properly fused and relayed.
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:58 AM   #18
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POST ALIGNMENT UPDATE: I am now going to change the the upper and lower links in the rear suspension since the camber is wrong and will rapidly wear out the new tires I bought. LR is set at 1.0 degree and RR is at 2.0 degrees at present. I have looked on line and found adjustable upper links that will solve this and will change the lower ones at the same time to refresh the parts along with the upper ones. I have seen adjustable lower links as well as upper but the cost factor makes the upper the easier choice for me.

Then I need another alignment but this time I can at least have the settings as I wish. I have the camber alignment bolt set from Moog but will not be using them since the RR is more than 2.0 degrees out and I am wanting to be near 0.5 degrees camber or so and the bolt set is only +/- 1.0 degree range. It would work for the LR but not the RR. Maybe I will put them on ebay. I hate to see useful parts laying around.

I have to admit that it feels good to go over small bumps and have the car react like a solid mass passing over them instead of multiple small irritating noises and a loose sort of nasty reaction from the car on even small, sharp bumps as little as an inch or so in height. I credit the refreshed motor mounts with a lot of this plus the new struts/shocks...

cheers
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Old 04-19-2014, 04:32 PM   #19
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as long as your toe is close to zero that amount of camber wont wear tires much.
the bolts do +/- 1 degree. -1 degree isnt much at all. i have way more than that.
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:41 AM   #20
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Hi, thanks for the reply about camber.

That brings up the main question: What is the preferred toe in and camber setting for a daily driver to keep from wearing out the inside of the rear tires. I am going to change the rear upper and lower links and can choose to have any setting I wish when doing alignment after that. In reading the forums I have gotten the idea that about 1 degree of camber or maybe a little less and ~.02 rear toe in and ~.02 front toe out would be a good compromise. Thoughts? Suggestions?

My original equipment 215/45/17 Continental summer performance tires lasted ~26k miles and the inside was worn out and some tread was left in the rest. I then used some Kumho (311?) summer performance tires and they had the same fate and lasted about the same mileage. My third set of tires were General high performance all weather touring tires and they had the same fate. I have been using the approximate center of the range for recommended settings for camber and toe in as I went along and clearly that setting eats the inside of the rear tires.

The Conti and Kumho tires rode like round rocks at each wheel. The General tires were great for ride, overall handling and in the rain with one glaring exception: They were easy to kill in potholes since they were polyester and nylon cord based. I went through a set of six (2 killed by potholes) in about 27k miles. I am now at ~86k miles and have changed to Continental tires again and have V rated tires with Kevlar cord this time to have tougher tires for the crap roads in Oklahoma. I also changed the tire aspect ratio and size this time to try to have a better resistance to potholes and bumps. Time will tell if this strategy works. My current tires are about 1/2 taller than the original tire size. I am using stock Ford SVT springs and the stock shock/strut set so the car is basically as new with minor small changes in parts like the urethane bushings in the rear sway bar.

I welcome advice...

cheers.
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