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Old 04-09-2014, 03:12 PM   #11
Bills86e
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I only cut thru the rind of this ford lemon. I took safety seriously before doing the deed.
I seal my removable access plates, secure with ASE screws.

Thousands of us have this engine runs good til warm then Stalling,dying issue.
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Old 04-09-2014, 06:43 PM   #12
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So the ASE screws made the difference eh?..............LOL.

It is death to simply dismiss critiquing your past work, you have already done it with the pump twice you say, so, bit you there. Simply dismissing more will be extremely funny if you later find a nicked wire in harness around your cut. But then some like to do that.

I've had the warm stall twice, both times fixed with pretty much one part. Luck to all the rest............

I go back over my work at the drop of a hat, but then I generally fix things right the first time. In fact maybe 95%. Maybe give that some thought?

P.S............the are no such things as lemon cars, only lemon owners, the cars I assure you operate according to strict laws of physics and will repair 100% if you keep that in mind. I've bought several very bad problem vehicles from others to not find a one that couldn't be made to run perfectly. Just picked up a Kawasaki 4X4 for a pittance that the K shop worked on like 5 times and would not start, $1200 put into it. They claimed cam and compression release mechanism gone 'bad' and bad carb. I turned a spring around that was causing float to hang up and put back in a missing needle jet (yeah, they 'rebuilt' the carb lol) and fixed a chokeside vacuum leak, oh, and reversed the backwards coil leads. Starts and runs fine now. Cost $5............so much for 'factory mechs'.

I bought an RM250 Suzuki once for $200 that was only 3 months old, the motor missed to no end. The Suzuki people could not figure out what was wrong with it either, they gave it up as a 'bad' motor. See how that works? If you can't figure it out, it must be 'bad'. LOL. After looking at specs a bit I came to the conclusion there was a midstream year jetting/jet needle change that was made, only this bike had only half of it done. Same thing as the Kaw, buy a $5 part and 5 minutes running to reburn the plug off clean and I drove that 250 for a year and then sold it for $800. Never missed a beat after that and one hot rod motorcycle.
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Old 04-09-2014, 07:44 PM   #13
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OK,
OK, We appreciate if you will "name that part" that fixed the mk 1 engine stumble & die after warming up. shut it off 30 seconds and it restarts-runs good (but not long).

How many ford focus parts can you name that might be a perp culpret contributor. FORD only admits the fuel pump can fail, ect.

There has been a lot of guesses offering suggestions on this problem. I am not a mechanic, but am not looking to be, or do this boasting "I've
fixed that problem" then not offering the fix.

I only have two things not replaced.
1. coil pak
2. rubber pcv vent valve-elbo-crankcase hose.

I offer: that #2.... the hose internally collasped, sends MAF wrong message to powertrain control module.

This thinking leaves #1, that its bolted to engine and when the heat transfers to the coil pak it fails.

AMC49 ...................... please post your "fix". I got this car when M-n law passed, her BF was a retired Ford mechanic Joe Huffman, who totally sabataged it. This mechanic left the spark plugs loose - what a dipstick! He pounded in the two black fuses backwards. and more!

Last edited by Bills86e; 04-10-2014 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 04-10-2014, 07:06 PM   #14
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Was at the Dealer today to pick up the pcv hose,valve-elbow. The manger told me I may have a driveability problem
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Old 04-11-2014, 05:54 AM   #15
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LOL, I'd say so. If the lower PCV that goes to back of intake then it must be in good shape or an unmetered air leak. Throttle body must be clean around where the blade comes closest to the bore and fully shut, the crack there must be pristine with no buildup on the edges. The PCV valve must be clean on the small metering orifice inside (there are TWO, one small and one big), it must rattle free. The breather hose that comes off far side of valve cover to airbox is not necessary to be airtight to idle right but it will suck dirt in engine if not.

Get a live data read on the upper O2 sensor and warm engine at idle, it must be switching above and below .5 volt. Like .1, .8, .2, .9, etc, no order just must be high and low both. If stuck low below .5 then vacuum leak somewhere.

Read TPS at idle warm, needs to be around .8-.9 volt but LESS THAN 1.0 volt. If drastically off then need TPS, under .5 bad for sure or misadjusted.
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Old 04-15-2014, 06:07 PM   #16
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My TPS has brown - yellow - white connector wires. 1. Do I run a needle in two of them, in order to clip on the voltmeter probes? 2. car running or off? 3. car off-ignition on?
4.Can the TPS be olm tested out of the car? 5. Why does it only stumble after warming up
and not when cool start. Didn't know that a potentiometer would be the culpret.

This is good info, Thanks amc49 Can you answer the above for us? This info should be wrote up and be a "sticky" here in this forum.

Last edited by Bills86e; 04-15-2014 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 04-15-2014, 08:29 PM   #17
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Here's a "sticky" with some info. for you:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...Manual+TPS+ATX
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:11 PM   #18
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NAPA autoparts sells the potentiometer, part # DEM ss10402 for the Focus automatic transmission. Its a thick part, longer screws would be needed. The plug is not compatable. probly scrapyard for late model 00-04. I have early 2000, and my tps looks like an mtx but slot 90* different
and its slim, and has no return spring inside it, as you read in Sailors post #17. Thank you amc49!
I looked up the difference and these links are to the 2 different ones one marked for stanrd-manual and the other automatic shift.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...906_0374677489 for manual
and http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...402_0342235849 for auto


need how to set up a voltmeter - answer post #16

Last edited by Bills86e; 04-15-2014 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:27 PM   #19
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Red lead of VOM on white wire TPS output, black VOM lead any good ground. VOM on DC volts as low a range above 2 volts as you can get if it is not an auto-ranging meter.
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:08 AM   #20
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Do I run a needle thru the white wire, to attach my DVM, just have car key in ON postion (Just Guessing, me is not a FORD mechanic) ? Thank you for posting the ford focus TPS values!



I began my education in the 1940's, I even wrote a paper on the TPS for my jetski Fanatic buddies in 2011:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?46166-Tps

I am now old with a failing memory..............but Happy!

Last edited by Bills86e; 04-16-2014 at 12:26 PM.
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