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Old 03-13-2014, 03:16 AM   #21
yellowhatch
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Update: Measured the outlet for my OBX downpipe today, it is in fact exactly 2.25" for the exit and 2.5" for the inlet. They did not change the sizing to make it 2.5" on both sides, this works good in my case as my exhaust is 2.36".
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:45 PM   #22
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Thanks for the info/pics and the review. The flex shouldn't restrict it too much, right? It's short and not that much smaller.
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Old 03-13-2014, 04:27 PM   #23
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Thanks for the info/pics and the review. The flex shouldn't restrict it too much, right? It's short and not that much smaller.
I'm not one of the experts around here but I don't see why it would not hurt it too much (or even at all). Nothing is worse than the stock mani/cat setup lol. Good luck with whatever route you go.
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:39 PM   #24
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The cost savings will be worth the couple of hp I might have gained with a different one. :)
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:58 PM   #25
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The OBX flex pipe in the pics is ceramic. I wish they made a ceramic version for our generation Yellow Hatch. I've seen lots of stainless headers rust out after time. Ceramic headers maintain heat better too.
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:28 AM   #26
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The OBX flex pipe in the pics is ceramic. I wish they made a ceramic version for our generation Yellow Hatch. I've seen lots of stainless headers rust out after time. Ceramic headers maintain heat better too.
I guess SS is cheaper to produce. I have seen the F2 ceramic ones rust as well though. I wonder if it that pic is really ceramic or was just painted hi-temp paint? I don't remember there ever being a ceramic OBX header (though I could be wrong).
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Old 03-15-2014, 10:18 AM   #27
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The obx header is a good product for the money & it sure beats the log manifold on the 20's all to hell.
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Old 03-16-2014, 02:32 PM   #28
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Quote:
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The OBX flex pipe in the pics is ceramic. I wish they made a ceramic version for our generation Yellow Hatch. I've seen lots of stainless headers rust out after time. Ceramic headers maintain heat better too.
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I guess SS is cheaper to produce. I have seen the F2 ceramic ones rust as well though. I wonder if it that pic is really ceramic or was just painted hi-temp paint? I don't remember there ever being a ceramic OBX header (though I could be wrong).
Looks like that was painted/ coated by the owner. My OBX stuff was shiny stainless from the factory. I wrapped the header and had it on the car for 4 years. It wasnt pretty, but it didnt rot out and Im sure a little elbow grease could have brought back the shine
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:42 PM   #29
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yeah i painted it, then wrapped it and painted it again with some kind of head paint that is supose to help disipate the heat or something better. I forgot now what all i did.

There are posts of everything i did with images and stuff if you dig around.

If i remember i had the 2.25 section cut off and rewelded with 2.5 then i had 2.5 from the flex back.

Its been 3 years now i think and nothing is leaking yet but i have noticed its getting louder over time.

I put a large long resonator/glasspack on it after the flex down the middle of the car, then where the rear muffler was i put in the same size as stock but 2.5" and over the 3 years its blown all the dampening out since and its at the point now i think i just have 2 empty tubes with no noise dampening glass left in either one.

I think 3-4 years is about the live of these once you remove the cats. Or the glass pack has excedded its life. If th emuffler doesnt have any dampening in it then the glass pack section is shot.
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Old 05-06-2014, 11:45 PM   #30
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Just did this mod today, really wakes up the car. I got some o2 bungs fabbed up on my downpipe so no CEL. Car is a completely different animal now, can't wait for tune!
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