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Old 03-06-2014, 11:10 AM   #1
Conflicted Chaos
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OBX-R header review for Duratec

This is my official review for the OBX-R 4-1 header/flex for the Duratec engine in case anyone was curious about buying this set. First let me say that it has quality workmanship. Nice welds and polished stainless steel, which will eventually turn blue on the header. It comes with two flex pipes but you'll only need one. Right away I noticed that my exhaust was about 40% louder then it was with just the FSWerks race exhaust on. Mainly from the cat being eliminated. The performance gains were major. My car accelerates and revs much faster, and torque is definitely improved (especially when climbing hills). I'm even getting much better gas mileage with a complete exhaust system now. I will say that it is very loud if you already have a cat back exhaust, so if not getting attention or not waking up the neighborhood is for you then you might want to go a different route. It gets louder as you climb gears, especially after 3000 rpm. As far as engine heat goes its not too bad. Took a two hour drive last weekend and the heat wasn't overwhelming or anything. I know that there are other ceramic headers like the FSWerks or the F2, but for $250 you can't beat this OBX. Hopefully this review will help anyone thinking about buying one. I have no regrets whatsoever.


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Old 03-06-2014, 11:20 AM   #2
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Oh and one important thing I forgot to add is it only has one bung for the O2 sensor leaving the other two unconnected. So you will have the check engine light come on until you get a bypass or a tune.
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:44 PM   #3
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Interesting. How come it came with 2 downpipes? Will the second one work with a manual car? If so I might buy it from ya. I like the OBX downpipes since they are 2.25" vs the FS 2.5"; 2.5" shows gains but I don't want a 2.5" downpipe going into a 2.36" exhaust causing turbulence. So basically I am getting the 3 bung FS header and using the OBX downpipe. I want the 3 bung so I can run a wideband o2. Thanks for your insight.
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Old 03-06-2014, 01:03 PM   #4
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Oh and to add: Take it easy driving her hard without a tune, header is really pushing the limits of the stock fuel tables so you might be leaning out. Tom seems to be the way to go imo.
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Old 03-06-2014, 01:13 PM   #5
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No problem. I'm not sure why it came with two. Somebody said online that one was AT and one was MT but I can't verify that because side by side they are identical and my mechanic said there was no difference between the two. I can text you pics of it if you pm me your number. Will definitely cut you a deal if you want it I was gonna put it on the marketplace anyway.
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Old 03-06-2014, 01:14 PM   #6
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Or email whatever is easier for you.
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Old 03-06-2014, 01:18 PM   #7
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I hear a lot about Toms tunes. Is that a performance shop or something? Not looking to spend almost $400 on a new sct tuner that's why I've been holding out.
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Old 03-06-2014, 01:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conflicted Chaos View Post
Or email whatever is easier for you.
I'll PM you my email. Cell is down right now.

Quote:
I hear a lot about Toms tunes. Is that a performance shop or something? Not looking to spend almost $400 on a new sct tuner that's why I've been holding out.
$400 is well worth it for real results, you are basically fully taking advantage of every mod you have so far (rather than just slowly leaning out your car from every mod you do), remove rev limiters, and the ability for 93 octane tunes. There is probably power to be had running a tune in a stock engine let alone a bolt-on one. How it works is you buy the SCT flasher from tom and tom remotes into your laptop and you exchange datalogs etc. until you get the perfect calibration for your setup. This also involves you doing a few pulls as well iirc. As long as you stay natural aspirated Tom gives you free lifetime tuning for whatever you add (lets say cams etc.). So it basically pays for itself and you will have a much stronger pulling car. You also want a wideband o2 with datalogging software so you can have a "finished" or "accurate" tune as well; hence why I want a 3 bung header.
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Old 03-06-2014, 02:49 PM   #9
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Very nice info Yellowhatch you obviously know a good bit of what your talking about haha :) and you know the importance of tuning, something alot of people just don't seem to understand.

however, and don't take this the wrong way, but I wouldn't run the F2 header simply for placement of the O2 bungs, it is great as a header that won't throw a CEL but I believe the OBX or FSW header is a better choice. Yes they only have 1 O2 bung so you will delete 2 of your O2 sensors and only run the upstream O2 sensor, which is the only one you need, plus your wideband sensor which you will need to add a bung for. I believe the main issue with the F2 header is the fact that the upstream bung is placed on an individual runner and the center bung is also placed on a separate individual runner, so there is actually only 1 bung on the collector which is where you would want your upstream sensor to get an accurate reading from all 4 cylinders, not just 1.

Personally I think it would be more accurate only having 1 bung on the collector for the upstream O2 sensor, and then getting another bung welded to your flexpipe. That will place your wideband sensor at almost the perfect distance downstream from the head. You don't want it to close because you will burn it out very quickly and too far away and your accuracy falls off. I just installed an older Focussport header about a month ago and thats exactly what I did. I recommend the AEM UEGO wideband, its only $150 and comes with the wideband O2 sensor and the gauge pod which has the wideband controller built in as well as another O2 bung for you to have welded in where you want it. I just took my flexpipe off and marked where I wanted it and took it up to a local exhaust shop and got him to weld it in for me, cost $20
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Old 03-06-2014, 03:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowhatch View Post
Interesting. How come it came with 2 downpipes? Will the second one work with a manual car? If so I might buy it from ya. I like the OBX downpipes since they are 2.25" vs the FS 2.5"; 2.5" shows gains but I don't want a 2.5" downpipe going into a 2.36" exhaust causing turbulence. So basically I am getting the 3 bung FS header and using the OBX downpipe. I want the 3 bung so I can run a wideband o2. Thanks for your insight.
The one I bought had a 2.5" collector and downpipe. Where did you hear that they were 2.25"?

Then again, I bought one of the first ones in 08. Wouldnt be surprised if something changed since then.

OP- glad you like it! Its a quality header.
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