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View Poll Results: Escape i/m or not? I'm replacing the pcv hose & egr delete plate
Install a 23 escape i/m? 4 100.00%
Use the i/m I have & use the $ towards a buffer? 0 0%
Voters: 4. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 03-03-2014, 01:06 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by 2010SVT View Post
Ok so I'm lost here lol. Someone educate me and help me out. I have a 2010 for reference. Are you saying that I can go find an escape in the junkyard, yank its intake manifold and reap benefits from this? If that is so thats cool and I'm gonna go yank one asap.
To add to this; are the ports on the 2.3 bigger than the 2.0? If that is the case unless you have port matching done it would just be better to stick with the stock 2.0 unit correct? From what I have heard the stock manifolds are definitely not "bad" for the 2.0 they are just not the most "optimized" setup though the same could be said for almost any stock manifold on a car. One thing I do like about the plastic manifolds is light weight and less heatsoak vs an aluminum one.
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Old 03-03-2014, 03:49 PM   #12
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Hi Felix,

I did not vote yet but will later. I really really like the idea of the Escape IM. I'm sick of my imrc (and imtv) flap noise and I ran imrc disabled and stuck open for a month or so and saw little or no performance gains/losses on the butt dyno. Have stock tune and ran with CEL during this.

I plan to do the imrc disable again this summer to compare hot-weather conditions and performance. Based on duratec imrc wiki info, having the tumble flaps removed should lightly decrease mpg. (?) -or fuel injector/air mix efficiency?

If you do it, are you going to get a tune? Def best done with a tune, but if not, what about the imrc solenoid? Will the PCM set a code if the solenoid has been removed? If yes, I'm guessing you will also put your old imrc solenoid onto the escape IM? You could test this now, since your actuator is already tied up.

Also, if no Tune, you will have the imrc actuator in there just to keep the P2004 code away right? Inside that actuator is a variable resistor, so if you copy/replicate that resistor, you could pull out the imrc actuator too...?... just an idea.

With Tune, I vote YES YES
Without Tune I vote NO,... yet I want to do it anyway. And before my engine eats a piece of that fricken noisy tumble flap setup.

$200.00 is the cost for a brand new escape IM from Ford?
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:12 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Marde View Post
Hi Felix,

I did not vote yet but will later. I really really like the idea of the Escape IM. I'm sick of my imrc (and imtv) flap noise and I ran imrc disabled and stuck open for a month or so and saw little or no performance gains/losses on the butt dyno. Have stock tune and ran with CEL during this.

I plan to do the imrc disable again this summer to compare hot-weather conditions and performance. Based on duratec imrc wiki info, having the tumble flaps removed should lightly decrease mpg. (?) -or fuel injector/air mix efficiency?

If you do it, are you going to get a tune? Def best done with a tune, but if not, what about the imrc solenoid? Will the PCM set a code if the solenoid has been removed? If yes, I'm guessing you will also put your old imrc solenoid onto the escape IM? You could test this now, since your actuator is already tied up. I have been running it w/ the vacuum line going to the vacuum switch plugged & the cel on. So late last Jan, I hooked the vacuum line back up & turned off the cel & passed the emmissions test(due July) w/ the actuvator linkage not hooked up.

Also, if no Tune, you will have the imrc actuator in there just to keep the P2004 code away right?= Correct. Inside that actuator is a variable resistor, so if you copy/replicate that resistor, you could pull out the imrc actuator too...?... just an idea.

With Tune, I vote YES YES= I have a tune, but not to delete the imrc.
Without Tune I vote NO,... yet I want to do it anyway. And before my engine eats a piece of that fricken noisy tumble flap setup.

$200.00 is the cost for a brand new escape IM from Ford?
Yea, it was something like 192. or so. The escape i/m is cheaper then the one w/ tumble flaps. Thanx for your input & everone else.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:49 PM   #14
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So just to ensure I got this right... the escape IM is a direct bolt on and is plug and play, and gets rid of the tumble flaps? So basically it is superior to the stock 2.0 IM in every way?
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:45 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by RPMisChris View Post
So just to ensure I got this right... the escape IM is a direct bolt on and is plug and play, and gets rid of the tumble flaps? So basically it is superior to the stock 2.0 IM in every way?
Hey Chris the escape i/m is the same as all the others, just deletes the imrc= tumble flaps. For some reason the escape 23 doesn't use the imrc. This only works on a 23 or a 23 head.
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:56 PM   #16
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k Gotchya. I am also searching for an IM to go with my other plans. Perhaps I will buy the cosworth one from FSwerks
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by felixthecat View Post
Hey everone, I'm going to replace my pcv hose & install Massive's egr delete plate, so I'll have the i/m off. I've been running w/ the imrc,(tumble flaps) tie wrapped open & the actvator linkage removed so the cel is off & passed the emmissions test no problem, even thou its due in July. Whats your thoughts on getting & installing the escape 23 i/m, which doesn't use the imrc, but still has the imtv? Should I breakout $200. for the i/m or not? Would I see anything or not?
Here (above) you said “so the cel is off & passed the emmissions test no problem”.

Today I noticed you typed your words inside of my quote (when you do that, you should do something like make the font different or color them). Shown below are your words (inside of my quote), now with red text color added.

Then (below) you said “So late last Jan, I hooked the vacuum line back up & turned off the cel & passed the emmissions test”.

I was at first very confused by these conflicting statements, but now I understand that you are/were using two different methods of disabling the imrc system; (#1) disconnecting vac hose at solenoid; actuator does not move, so it causes a CEL (#2) disconnecting the actuator arm from the tumble flap arm; causes system to work normal and no CEL; at same time, tie-down the tumble flaps arm in open position; actuator will move up and down but has nothing connected to it.

Please help me, I have a question. When you “disconnect the actuator arm from the tumble flap arm” how do you do that? That connection looks fragile (plastic) and I feel that I would break something if I try and un-snap this connection. What is the secret of doing this without breaking it? Can it be done while the IM is installed, or did you have to do some removal of other parts that are in the way? The tumble flap arm is an ivory colored tab, while the actuator arm is black, can I put two flat tip screwdrivers in-between the ivory & black connection and just pry them apart? This sounds dangerously risky and breaking a piece of this connection would be a very bad day.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marde View Post
Hi Felix,

I did not vote yet but will later. I really really like the idea of the Escape IM. I'm sick of my imrc (and imtv) flap noise and I ran imrc disabled and stuck open for a month or so and saw little or no performance gains/losses on the butt dyno. Have stock tune and ran with CEL during this.

I plan to do the imrc disable again this summer to compare hot-weather conditions and performance. Based on duratec imrc wiki info, having the tumble flaps removed should lightly decrease mpg. (?) -or fuel injector/air mix efficiency?

If you do it, are you going to get a tune? Def best done with a tune, but if not, what about the imrc solenoid? Will the PCM set a code if the solenoid has been removed? If yes, I'm guessing you will also put your old imrc solenoid onto the escape IM? You could test this now, since your actuator is already tied up. I have been running it w/ the vacuum line going to the vacuum switch plugged & the cel on. So late last Jan, I hooked the vacuum line back up & turned off the cel & passed the emmissions test(due July) w/ the actuvator linkage not hooked up.

Also, if no Tune, you will have the imrc actuator in there just to keep the P2004 code away right? Inside that actuator is a variable resistor, so if you copy/replicate that resistor, you could pull out the imrc actuator too...?... just an idea.

With Tune, I vote YES YES
Without Tune I vote NO,... yet I want to do it anyway. And before my engine eats a piece of that fricken noisy tumble flap setup.

$200.00 is the cost for a brand new escape IM from Ford?
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Old 03-04-2014, 05:43 PM   #18
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Please help me, I have a question. When you “disconnect the actuator arm from the tumble flap arm” how do you do that? That connection looks fragile (plastic) and I feel that I would break something if I try and un-snap this connection. What is the secret of doing this without breaking it? Can it be done while the IM is installed, or did you have to do some removal of other parts that are in the way? The tumble flap arm is an ivory colored tab, while the actuator arm is black, can I put two flat tip screwdrivers in-between the ivory & black connection and just pry them apart? This sounds dangerously risky and breaking a piece of this connection would be a very bad day.[/QUOTE]

What I did was remove the t/b & then you can get to the 3 torx screws that hold the actvator to the i/m= remove that & then you can remove the linkage. You can't just undue the linkage, as the arm to the imrc is in the way of the actuvator rod.
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Old 09-28-2014, 12:03 AM   #19
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This one ended up in the wrong section when the duratec performance sections were split, I'll move it back to the '03-'07 section.

When my tumble flaps were intermittently inop. (fixed vacuum hose when I traced the problem) My butt dyno said I lost a LOT of roll on power at low RPM. That's where mine spends most of it's time for economical driving, so I'm a believer in the tumble flaps for everyday driving.

Thing felt like a Dog when they didn't work, none of the nice low RPM torque I love.
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Old 09-28-2014, 10:46 AM   #20
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This one ended up in the wrong section when the duratec performance sections were split, I'll move it back to the '03-'07 section.

When my tumble flaps were intermittently inop. (fixed vacuum hose when I traced the problem) My butt dyno said I lost a LOT of roll on power at low RPM. That's where mine spends most of it's time for economical driving, so I'm a believer in the tumble flaps for everyday driving.

Thing felt like a Dog when they didn't work, none of the nice low RPM torque I love.
Hey Roger, what I found is= When I 1st remove the activator from the i/m & disconnect the arm from the imrc linkage & lay the activator aside, but still have the vacuum lines still hooked up= to keep the cel off, It had a slight hesitation above 1000 to 13, 1400 rpm. So I put it all back & now run it w/ just the vacuum line coming from the intake to the imrc switch disconnected & plugged off. What I find is the motor is smooth & pulls no problem, the cel is on thou. What happens when I have the vacuum line disconnected & plugged is the idle snaps closed so fast at times that the motor stalls, if I don't catch the throttle & my wife has asked whats wrong.
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