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Old 02-21-2005, 09:06 AM   #11
atlzx3
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i didnt even ask about a sway bar...but im satisified with my SVT sway. I just want a rollbar or cage.
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Old 02-21-2005, 09:30 AM   #12
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First off, ignore 2020vision. He is a moron, and has no clue what he is talking about. Hell, he can't even spell or type.

atlzx3, I have a rollbar from S&W Racecars. Its a nice weld-in, but you have to make sure they know its for autocross or track days, since they primarilly do NHRA bars. And even then, I still had to modify it. Make sure you get it made from DOM metal. Also, they didn't include a diagonal bar that goes inside the main hoop. And their design has the rear braces following the contour of the roof, but I wanted it to be straight.

As for bolt-ins, the Autopower is a really nice setup. I know someone who has that in their SVT, and it was a much easier job.

One other source is Kearney Racing, up in MD. While it may be pricey, their work is amazing!
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Old 02-21-2005, 06:21 PM   #13
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yeap thats exactly what im usin it for, thanks for the advice
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Old 02-22-2005, 09:26 AM   #14
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2020 it is alright to disagree, but it is not in the spirit of this forum to be so crude or childish. If this is the kind of posts you enjoy making and reading, I hear there is a wonderful forum for that elsewhere on the web. (I won't name any sites.) One of the things that make this forum work is the attitude of the majority of the members; let’s blame it on all that coffee you drank and talk like mature adults here.
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Old 02-28-2005, 02:39 PM   #15
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Be careful on selecting roll bars or cages for autocross purposes as it may put you in a prepared class when you want to be in a street class. A welded in roll bar or cage will do this immediately. A bolted in roll bar will not. Roll bars are only needed for Solo I SCCA competition and not for Solo II (normal autocross). If Solo I is you goal the bar has to meet several standards (diameter of tubing, thickness of steel, height of main loop above head, etc.). I suggest you check rules before installing any cage or roll bar. My rally car was also a daily driver. It had a 16 point cage in it. It was cool for awhile but got to be a real pain in the butt crawling in and out over the side bars. Even my sons complained about it. Don't install a cage in a street car unless you really have to, and then i suggest you go with bolt in side bars if your rules will allow. I have a four point "Hard Dog" roll bar in my Miata and you don't know its there most of the time.
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Old 02-28-2005, 04:46 PM   #16
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^^^Ahhh, but you'd be surprised^^^
When I had my Mustang, I rode/drove in a few others that had roll bars.
The chassis was noticably stiffer in the cars with roll bars, given similar suspension set ups.
I don't know if would be as big of a help in the fOCUS or not.

atlzx3:
What is your main purpose for installing the roll bar?
Safety, or handling?
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by WD40
^^^Ahhh, but you'd be surprised^^^
When I had my Mustang, I rode/drove in a few others that had roll bars.
The chassis was noticably stiffer in the cars with roll bars, given similar suspension set ups.
I don't know if would be as big of a help in the fOCUS or not.

atlzx3:
What is your main purpose for installing the roll bar?
Safety, or handling?
His original post states he wants his car to be a little stiffer. How many points are we talking here?

To give a little background on WHY a rollcage is good for siffening up things, its because it for one, stiffens the cassis, and 2, takes the shock from the suspension. Meaning that you hit a pot hole or something (unlikely on pavement races, but you never know lol) the shock will not (or isnt suppose to) go through the body of the car, but rather the cage itself.

If you are going to get a welded in cage, don't go cheap. Get someone very good and reputable.
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:20 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by thefrush


If you know so much about performance parts and handling why did you get front and rear strut tower bars? Those aren't good for anything more than something to dry your dirty tighty-whities on.
Frush why would a rear strut tower bar not help? I have one but it is not installed? If it doesnt help then I wont install but I thought it would tighten up the rear. Sorry to "jack" the thread.
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:26 PM   #19
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My thing against the rear 'strut' bar is how it attaches. It attaches to thin sheet metal that can flex some. When I had my roll bar installed, I had a real beefy bar installed at the top of the shock towers, tieing the 2 braces together. However, I felt no difference with it.
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:38 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by romaczx3
I'm confused about what it is you're looking for lol. A roll cage is not a good idea for a daily driven street car - a hassle to enter and exit, expensive, and dangerous if you're in a crash on the street - imagine your non helmeted head slapping one of the bars in a collision - you'd be kind of messed up
BAH!! I'm a FIRM beleiver in Roll Bars...2 years w/o a rollbar has me scetched out. Roll bars save lives!! We have a totalled cobra in our shop, dude hit black ice and went sideways into a tree....when you look at the car, you can tell it has a roll bar the way the side is caved in...around the bar, its perfectly fine...crushed every where else. I'll take a pic...Id rather bang my noggin than eat a tree. Oh, and the Focus bars GENERALLY have 6 points...main hoop, rearward bars, and fwd bars that run a 45* angle from the main hoop to the kick panel.

Do a google for Art Morrison Enterprises...I found a RACE cage (6pt.) with or with out rear seat for about $250. Only draw back is, its a weld in...

Hope that helps...
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