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Old 02-13-2014, 03:38 PM   #21
SlickWilly
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Have you tried replacing your fuel filter, checking for VAC leaks, checking transmission fluid, dragging brake?
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Old 02-13-2014, 05:00 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlickWilly View Post
Here is our cars (Crice8 Video) with a header, exhaust, intake, tune and lightweight wheels.
http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/et...O0014.mp4.html

Here is our car's bone stock SES on SES wheels with leather interior and everything, stock down to the filter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVZNC1MSg9E

Y'all let me know how efficient all those mods are. I believe Crice and I even get very similar gas mileage. The best way is to keep keeping track of it and try to drive a little more grandma like.
Around about 41-42mpg on the highway at 74mph. You?

That was 222 Miles there and back then 5.378 gallons to top back off. We are going on a trip this weekend 309 miles each way. I will track my mileage over that trip. I expect lesser mpgs since we are going from TX to Arkansas and the increase elevation along the way since we are going to a lodge in the mountains(=
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Old 02-13-2014, 05:06 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlickWilly View Post
Have you tried replacing your fuel filter, checking for VAC leaks, checking transmission fluid, dragging brake?
I have a question for you... Have you replaced your fuel filter?
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Old 02-13-2014, 05:29 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by jwindbigler View Post
Great writeup. The weather makes a lot of sense. The biggest change I saw was when I put the wheels/snow tires on. So combine the most likely heavier tire, with more wheels spin, and the sub zero temps weve been having here, now I can see why it would go down.

But is there anything I can do as of right now to pick it back up?

I heard about a free mod with your throttle body. What does that do? Ive also heard something about the baffles (flaps?? maybe) in the intake manfiold itself. Will this help my mpg?

Ive been trying to do more coasting than normal, and shorter shifting than normal to see if that helps.

Is this the throttle body mod. you're referring to?

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186991

If it is, the "thunder throttle" mod. is for quicker response at initial throttle opening. It doesn't increase top end power Or help MPG. MPG would likely drop because it's harder to modulate the throttle at low throttle openings.

The "tumble flaps" in the intake manifold function to IMPROVE efficiency in low throttle opening/low rpm conditions - just what's needed for maximum MPG. No appreciable affect on power when open at higher throttle/rpm settings. Removal is only "useful" to avoid manifold replacement when worn out, overall performance suffers.

MPG loss from Snow Tires is primarily from the tread pattern. The larger voids, more individual blocks, and "sipes" (tiny grooves) which all aid in Winter traction also result in a LOT of rubber pieces flexing as the tire rotates in contact with the road. All this flexing increases rolling resistance & decreases MPG. Softer rubber compounds for better cold weather grip (Snow, Wet, or Dry) help mpg slightly with easier sidewall flex, more than offset by increased tread flex that hurts mpg. ( these are reasons for more "wander" and a looser "feel" of the road when using Snow Tires)

Your driving "tricks' for increased MPG will all help (short shift, easy on the throttle, coasting along whenever possible).

"Warming up" the car by driving easy rather than idling helps with MPG and is better for the engine. Checking tire pressure (usually lower than normal due to cold) and running an extra 5 psi. over recommended "std" inflation (as recommended for high speed travel) helps with MPG any time of year. This will also help with traction, particularly on hard packed Snow/Ice.

CAI's (Cold Air Intakes) have a potential to cause more problems in severe Winter weather, to the point where many remove them for Winter driving. Depending how protected the location, snow/water can freeze on the filter blocking air flow - a real issue! The "SRI" style, located higher in the engine bay, can avoid some of these problems & is better to use for Winter if you need an alternative to the stock intake due to replacement cost.

Couple tips there, and some additional information.

Luck!
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Old 02-13-2014, 05:31 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlickWilly View Post
Have you tried replacing your fuel filter, checking for VAC leaks, checking transmission fluid, dragging brake?
I have not. I do believe that shes up for new spark plugs though. Not struggling, or underpowered or anything like that. I think its just about the recommended maintenance time.

No VAC leaks. Doesnt idle any higher than normal. Drives the exact same as before. Just consumes more fuel
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Old 02-13-2014, 05:35 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
Is this the throttle body mod. you're referring to?

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186991

If it is, the "thunder throttle" mod. is for quicker response at initial throttle opening. It doesn't increase top end power Or help MPG. MPG would likely drop because it's harder to modulate the throttle at low throttle openings.

The "tumble flaps" in the intake manifold function to IMPROVE efficiency in low throttle opening/low rpm conditions - just what's needed for maximum MPG. No appreciable affect on power when open at higher throttle/rpm settings. Removal is only "useful" to avoid manifold replacement when worn out, overall performance suffers.

MPG loss from Snow Tires is primarily from the tread pattern. The larger voids, more individual blocks, and "sipes" (tiny grooves) which all aid in Winter traction also result in a LOT of rubber pieces flexing as the tire rotates in contact with the road. All this flexing increases rolling resistance & decreases MPG. Softer rubber compounds for better cold weather grip (Snow, Wet, or Dry) help mpg slightly with easier sidewall flex, more than offset by increased tread flex that hurts mpg. ( these are reasons for more "wander" and a looser "feel" of the road when using Snow Tires)

Your driving "tricks' for increased MPG will all help (short shift, easy on the throttle, coasting along whenever possible).

"Warming up" the car by driving easy rather than idling helps with MPG and is better for the engine. Checking tire pressure (usually lower than normal due to cold) and running an extra 5 psi. over recommended "std" inflation (as recommended for high speed travel) helps with MPG any time of year. This will also help with traction, particularly on hard packed Snow/Ice.

CAI's (Cold Air Intakes) have a potential to cause more problems in severe Winter weather, to the point where many remove them for Winter driving. Depending how protected the location, snow/water can freeze on the filter blocking air flow - a real issue! The "SRI" style, located higher in the engine bay, can avoid some of these problems & is better to use for Winter if you need an alternative to the stock intake due to replacement cost.

Couple tips there, and some additional information.

Luck!
Yes the thunder throttle is what I was referring to. As well as the tumble flaps. I am considering getting another stock intake manifold from a junk yard and doing both mods on them. That way I can swap it back if I dont like it.
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Old 02-13-2014, 06:30 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwindbigler View Post
In regards to the invalid argument, I was talking about the part where hes talking about a toilet paper roll compared to a paper towel roll and breathing through it.
It's the same argument I made...Two tubes with somewhat different maximum flow capacities, both of which are can easily flow far more than the needs of the given circumstances. It's actually much more applicable than the 'breathing through a straw' examples typically used for to illustrate the effect at WOT.



Quote:
Originally Posted by crice8 View Post
"Studies *typically done (or paid for) by aftermarket intake manufacturers* have shown that cold air intake gas mileage amounts are about 5 percent better than if you don't use one on your car..."

...Source:
The internet, so it must be true.
The air temperature argument for CAI's is not nearly as valid as it was years ago, since most modern cars already draw into the airbox from a "cold air" location, in addition to modern engine bays often being so tight that the CAI cone filter ends up in essentially the same position as the stock airbox anyways. However the inlet to the airbox can frequently be even more ideally positioned than a CAI, since it don't have to fit the whole filter wherever the air is being drawn from. Do you really think that when spending hundreds of millions of dollars developing new engines to meet ever tighter fuel economy and emissions requirements, they would leave such an easy (internet claimed) 5% fuel economy increase on the table? Not a chance. Most WOT power gains typically come from the less restrictive (less effective) filter and the smoothed/enlarged intake tract...Which explains how SRI's can also still show gains over the stock intake at WOT too. Even at max engine flow, a CAI typically nets <5% air flow increase at WOT...Let alone how drastically reduced the effects become at lower throttle openings. The more close the throttle plate is, less everything before the throttle body matters due to the pressure drop across the throttle plate. Reducing that pressure drop across the throttle plate also happens to be why you can actually improve fuel economy by using larger throttle openings at lower rpm to make the same effective power as smaller throttle openings at higher rpm.
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Old 02-13-2014, 08:23 PM   #28
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Here's one thread to read B4 trying the tumble flap delete:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...le+Flap+Delete

There are a few more good ones you can search for & read, research on what's been tried is quicker than starting from scratch yourself.
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:30 PM   #29
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My mpg ratio increased drastically when I added the FSWerks race exhaust. Mods before that were FSWerks cold air intake and CFM throttle body valve. Waiting to see what kind of results I get when I install the obx header and massive pulley...
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:38 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwindbigler View Post
I have not. I do believe that shes up for new spark plugs though. Not struggling, or underpowered or anything like that. I think its just about the recommended maintenance time.

No VAC leaks. Doesnt idle any higher than normal. Drives the exact same as before. Just consumes more fuel
I found autolite 104's for 4$ and it took 5 minutes to replace them I highly recommend it! Mine were looking awful at 60K. With copper based plugs they don't last as long but offer a better spark.
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