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Old 02-08-2005, 06:35 AM   #1
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Turbo ZX3 vs. B16A CRX

ok, heres the thing. I was seriously thinking about turboing my 01 zx3 but then i came across a deal where my friend offered to sell me his 91 black crx si for a project car, the car has some engine probs and missing a few parts like the radiator lol, but i but since he was giving me the car for $1000 bucks i figured iI would have enough to do a B16A engine/Tranny Swap. I'm not sure how fast this will make the crx go, I was told it would do a 1/4 mile in 14 seconds with this swap but I find that hard to believe seing that the b16a is only a 160 hp engine. Anyway which would be faster A precision turbo zx3 or 91 crx si with b16a swap?? What would the 1/4 mile be on both, 0-60 etc??

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Old 02-08-2005, 08:26 AM   #2
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civic = over done.

the civic is can be one dam quick car but in the end its still a played out civic..
I got buddies doing 13.9 on stock B18C1 motor and a custom ecu. Thats pretty quick.

Its just becuase there such a light car. Sure it costs more to get the focus quick but add f/i, build up some internals and crank up the boost and bam. A much more funner car then a Civic.

I was thinking the same thing but my freind talked me out of it. The civic is getting less respected here more and more just becuase its overly done.

Instead of buying a civic look into getting a used pzev or zetec engine :) build that bad boy up :)
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Old 02-08-2005, 08:48 AM   #3
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I already have a 01 focus zx3, i was just going to get the crx as a project car, thought it would be fun. trust me i'm not a big fan of the civics either but there is somthing about the crx that I like and call me crazy but i think l8tly ive been seeing more focuses than crx around here. I know everybody in this forume is going to tell me to stay with the turbo kit on the focus but that wasn't the question, which one would be faster? plus im a poor guy so if the crx is cheeper to make faster i'll use that as my project and keep the focus as my daily driver.
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Old 02-08-2005, 12:44 PM   #4
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the crx is going to be a faster car than the focus and it will be cheaper than the focus too! the focus is a great car but don't get me wrong cuz the civics and crx's are much lighter cars so they take less power to make go fast. my 95 civic is way faster than my focus just becuase it ways 2200 pounds vs. almost 3000 lb. plus hondas have a better aftermarket and prices but then you will be known as a ricer!!!!! But atleast you'll dominate the streets with about a 14 second quarter vs. about a 15.5 second w/ a focus
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Old 02-08-2005, 04:44 PM   #5
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how much are you wanting to spend,
my friend and I are in the process of building a 1st generation eagle talon tsi awd, on a good car, and by that I mean a good daily driver car, you can have a real project car.

I fot this off of Buschur's web site at www.buschurracing.com
check it out, you'll be glad you did

Take your car to as much as 300hp - and click off low 13's to high 12's in the 1/4 mile!

1) Air Filter Assembly

1G - K&N Air Filter
2G - K&N Filtercharger Kit
<1G Tip!> - Cut the top of the factory airbox off leaving the front and rear mounting holes intact
<1G Tip!> - Remove the air silencer (the paper filter located behind the MAS)
<1G Tip!> - Remove the smaller of the two honeycombs in the MAS - Do NOT remove the larger one. This modification will allow 2-3 psi more boost before hitting fuel cut
<2G Tip!> - Do NOT remove ANY of the honeycombs - the car will not run smoothly without them

2) Cat-back Exhaust System

AWD with 12 or 13 sec goal:
Buschur Racing 2.5" Pressbent Aluminized piping with Stainless Muffler and 4" Polished Tip - 1G or 2G (AWD Only)
All Turbo FWD or AWD with sub-12 sec goal:
Buschur Racing 3" Mandrel Bent Stainless piping and Muffler with 4" Polished Tip - All Turbo FWD and AWD Models

3) Boost or Boost/Vacuum Gauge

The factory Boost Gauge does not actually measure Boost - it merely estimates the what it "thinks" the current boost is based upon calculations involving air temperature and MAS data. Installing a "real" boost gauge is especially important once boost pressures exceed the values the stock gauge records.
We carry SPI, Autometer, and VDO Boost and Boost/Vacuum gauges, as well as 1G, 2G, and 3000GT Gauge Pods to house them.

4) Compressor Bypass Valve (Blow Off Valve) for 95+ Models

The 2G stock BOV is made of plastic and will not hold even moderate boost levels without leaking
We recommend replacing the stock 2G valve with a stock 1G BOV

5) Boost Control

We recommend the use of a Manual Boost Controller like the one that was designed by a well-respected long-time Buschur Racing customer Marc Hallman. It is reasonably priced, works great, and spools up as fast as the best electronic controllers.
If you want to run an electronic Boost Controller, we sell the HKS, Apex'i and Greddy units.

6) Fuel Pump

Once you have performed modifications 1-5 above, you'll be able to increase the boost to >16psi if you upgrade the factory fuel pump to one with higher flow. We sell 2 diffent in-tank fuel pumps - one for stock turbo and 16g cars, another for 20g+ cars. Both fuel pumps are better than the in-line HKS fuel pumps because they are easier to install, flow more, and are quieter than an external pump.

7) Test Pipe

This modification eliminates your catalytic converter and is designed for offroad use ONLY. Expect the exhaust tone to increase slightly, and for the power to come on more strongly when the turbo spools up
We also sell high flow catalytic converters for street use

8) Downpipe

Replacing the stock downpipe will greatly improve the performance of your car at high RPMs. Some of our customer cars have ran as fast as mid-11's on our least expensive 2.5" aluminized, pressbent downpipes. We also build and sell 2.5" and 3" stainless, mandrel-bent downpipes. A 3" downpipe without sufficient port work (see below), and external wastegate can cause boost creep.

9) Port Work

Using a die grinder and carbide bit, port your O2 housing, exhaust manifold housing, and turbine housing. This will make your turbo spool up faster, relieve unwanted backpressure, and increase your top-end power.
Port work has the added benefit of improving engine reliablity since less backpressure causes less strain on your engine, resulting in longer engine life.
You can send your parts to us for porting if you don't have access to the equipment to port your exhaust parts.

10) Ported 2G Exhaust Manifold

If you have a 1G, you may want to replace the 1G exhaust manifold with a higher-flowing, ported 2G manifold. We sell the 95+ exhaust manifolds in ported or unported styles at competitive prices!

11) High-Performance Clutch

The stock clutch will allow much of the new power at the crank to slip past the flywheel and your car won't "feel" as fast as it really is. A new clutch will also improve your 60' times at the track since it transfers more power to the ground.
We prefer the ACT 2100 or 2600 lb clutches. An added benefit it that the clutch discs are replaceable without replacing the pressure plate.
The ACT 2100 will hold enough power to propel you car into the high 11's.
The ACT 2600 will hold as much power as a DSM can produce! There is a significant increase in pedal pressure over stock with this clutch.

12) 16G upgrade for 1G Automatics and 2Gs

The 16g upgrade (described in Stage 2), is required for 1G Autos or 2Gs to reach the peak Stage 1 performance level


At this point in the buildup, you should have spent no more than $1200, if you performed the labor yourself. Your car will now be nearing the 300hp mark. A really well-tuned Stage 1 AWD car can achieve ET's as quick as 12.40's at a trap speed of 109mph with these simple modifications.

So, now that you've gone this far, are you ready for Stage 2?

Take your car to as much as 400hp - and click off high 11's in the 1/4 mile!

1) Intercooler Pipe Upgrade

The Buschur Racing Upper I/C pipe replaces the stock rubber and metal piping setup with a mandrel-bent, polished stainless steel pipe. The stock Throttle Body elbow is replaced with a larger, better-flowing elbow as well.
Typical gains are 7-10 hp with this part.
Kit includes all hose connectors, and will not blow off.

2) Extrude Honed Intake Manifold

The Extrude Hone process will smooth the inside of your intake manifold to allow better flow.
Typical gains are about 20 hp - or as much as .2 seconds in the 1/4 mile.

3) HKS Vein Pressure Converter (VPC)

The VPC is a fuel computer system that replaces the factory Mass Airflow Sensor (MAS) setup with a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) assembly and controller. The benefit of this conversion is that the flow of the intake system is improved by eliminating the restrictive factory MAS sensor assembly.
This modification allows the blow-off valve to be vented to the atmosphere for better performance and sound, as well as allows the use of a much larger, better flowing air filter assembly and larger injectors (if using larger injectors, request the custom Buschur Racing PROM for larger than stock injectors).
When mated with the HKS GCC, fuel trims are adjustable throughout the entire RPM range.
The VPC is used on ALL of Buschur Racing's cars, and with a replacable PROM can be used on everything from stock-appearing cars to strip-only monsters!
When compared with less-sophisticated A/F controllers, the VPC requires much LESS tuning - and can better deal with a wide variety of driving conditions, while providing a much higher level of performance potential.

4) Upgraded Turbo

Buschur Racing offers a wide range of turbos - from stock-appearing 16g's to track-bound Garrett T3/T4 giants, in your choice of porting and/or clipping.
We also carry the full line of Frankenstein turbos.
Call for assistance in selecting a turbo that will allow you to reach your performance goals! Buschur Racing has many years of experience using a wide variety of turbos, and will only sell what we know will work for your DSM!
Larger turbos require the use of larger injectors, bigger exhaust, a fuel computer like the VPC, and an external wastegate for best performance, so keep this in mind as you make your turbo decision.

5) External Wastegate

By installing an external wastegate, excessive boost will be dumped to the atmosphere (or back into the exhaust system if you have your car plumbed that way)
This modification will eliminate boost creep with any size exhaust even with the largest turbo we sell.
An external wastegate provides faster spoolup, and better performance in the upper RPM range.
HKS makes the highest performance wastegate on the market, and Buschur Racing orginates and manufactures the proper mount.

6) Fuel Injector Upgrade

Depending upon the larger turbo choice you made above, larger injectors may be needed, as well as an external wastegate (all turbos larger than 16g)
If you have a VPC, you'll need the custom Buschur Racing PROM
Fuel control of some kind is required when installing larger injectors

7) Cozmo Fuel Pump

If you install a 20g or larger turbo, you'll also need to upgrade the fuel pump to provide enough fuel to prevent running lean at boost levels greater than 18psi. We recommend the Cozmo fuel pump for this purpose.

8) SX Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) and custom mount

A very high volume fuel pump will pump more fuel at idle than the stock fuel pressure regulator can bypass to the fuel tank which will increase the fuel pressure so much that idle will really suffer. We recommend the SX Adjustable FPR to solve this issue, and provide a custom mount for your stock fuel rail to make it fit.

9) Front Mount Intercooler

For 1G cars, the Buschur Racing intercooler is the best performing setup on the market! It uses a very large, high performance core with extremely short piping that has very little impact on the cooling ability of your radiator.
Factory power steering and Air Conditioning can be maintained with our kit, and the intake charge is cooled much more than with our competitors Front Mount kits with a lower pressure drop.
We also sell huge track-only intercoolers for 1Gs and Conquests, and can custom-design an intercooler for use in any 4G63 powered outlaw racer.
Our kit comes complete with a new overflow bottle, all hose couplings, T-Bar clamps, and beautifully polished stainless piping - low profile fans are also available.

10) Weight Savings (that won't kill you)

Remove the padding from the bottom of the carpet
Remove the tar-like sound deadener on the floor of the interior and on the firewall
Get rid of the spare tire, jack, tools, rear seats, rear deck lid, rear hatch carpet, metal brackets in the rear hatch, and the heat shields in the driveshaft tunnel.
Convert from power steering to a manual rack
Get lighter wheels and tires

11) Weight Savings (that might kill you - for track use only)

Remove the rear bumper
Cut weight out of the front bumper and have an aluminum bumper bracket made to support the bumper cover
Remove all seat belts and the front belt motors and replace them with 5-pt racing harnesses


If you install all the Stage 2 parts, with tuning, your car will be nearing (or exceeding) the 400hp mark! A well-tuned car can see ET's as quick as 11.40's at approximately 121mph with these modifications. Want to reach the 10's? Our Stage 3 components will help get you there!

Take your car to as much as 650 hp - and click off high 10's in the 1/4 mile!

1) Buschur Racing Shortblock Assembly - or rebuild the engine yourself

Now that your car is making some SERIOUS horsepower with just bolt-on products, the next step is to ensure that the engine is operating at an optimal level with full compression, etc.
We are frequently asked to rebuild engines that a customer's machine shop has machined improperly - it may be much less expensive in the long run - to buy one of our Racing Shortblocks with much less downtime and hassle for you!
If you rebuild your own engine, be sure to replace all bearings, gaskets and seals. We sell 4G63 Engine Rebuild and Gasket sets.

2) Piston Upgrade

Upgrade to a higher compression ratio
The lighter, more durable forged Venoila or JE Forged pistons raise the compression ratio for 1G engines from 7.8:1 to 8.5:1 resulting in more power and better response
2G pistons provide a 8.5:1 compression ratio, and can be used on 1G models if the rods are correctly machined. We can perform this rod modification for you, and can provide you with the 2G pistons to be mated to your rods

3) Knife-edged Crankshaft

This machining work enables the crankshaft to "cut" through the engine oil with less friction; increasing overall engine efficiency
The crankshaft must be balanced after this modification is performed

4) Remove Balance Shafts

Removing the balance shafts from inside the engine reduces the engine's rotating mass by 10 lbs, increasing horsepower, and improving how quickly the engine "revs", with only a small increase in engine vibration.
You will need our Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit to perform this modification yourself - it is pre-installed in the Buschur Racing Shortblocks
The engine MUST be rebalanced after this modification.

5) Polish and/or Shotpeen the Rod Beams

Both methods strengthen the rods by eliminating microscopic "cracks"

6) Replace the Front Cover assembly

If you have not recently replaced your timing belt, all tensioners, oil pump, etc. now is the time do it!

7) Lightened Flywheel

We can exchange your stock flywheel for one that has been lightened by as much as 4 lbs
A lightened flywheel reduces the engine rotational mass, and lets the engine rev faster
We have run 60' times in the 1.50's with a lightened flywheel

8) Balance Engine

The entire rotating assembly (Flywheel, Crankshaft, Rods, Caps, and Pistons) must be balanced together as a set.
The Buschur Racing Shortblock assemblies are already balanced.

9) Replace the Cylinder Head

Huge gains in power can be achieved using our Stage 1, 2, or 3 Cylinder Heads
See the Engine Category in our Parts Catalog for more details about our Cylinder Heads

10) Port-Match the Cylinder Head

Match the size of the Intake and Exhaust ports with those on the Intake and Exhaust Manifolds (about 2" inside each port / runner)

11) Extrude Hone the Cylinder Head

We have seen gains as much as 27 hp achieved from the improved flow
A 3-angle or 5-angle valve job must be done once the Extrude Hone process is complete


With the engine modifications in Stage 3, engines can produce between 500 - 650 hp (depending upon which level of modifications are chosen).
Mods: focus sport CAI, Apexi turbo N1 muffler, Jackson Racing s/c, focus sport 12lb. flywheel, spec stage 3 clutch, Focus Central orp, dyno-tune, VIS carbon fiber hood and hatch, Eibach pro-kit springs, 215/45/17 Fuzion ZR1
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Old 02-08-2005, 07:10 PM   #6
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No matter how fast you get your civic in the END its still a CIVIC. I dunno where you guys live but here Civics are starting to get bad reps. I know there parts and parts. There parts and parts for other cars to.

If you want fast just do a custom hot rod. At least you will be origional. Do up an old rwd corolla, or a festiva.
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Old 02-08-2005, 07:18 PM   #7
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turbo your focus, to hell with the civic. if you ask me, and like what ZX3TUNR said, they are overrated. whatever you may do to them, they'll still turn out being a civic. can't change that.
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Old 02-08-2005, 07:31 PM   #8
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a crx is like 1000 somthing pounds, It will be very quick but if you turboed your car with toms kit you could roast one very easy. i have a friend with an ls teg engine in it and that think chirps 4th(so tight) but thats also a b18 so just go with turbo zx3. its more unique
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Old 02-08-2005, 08:26 PM   #9
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if you want light go with a toyota echo hatch. do a DIY turbo on that Vitz engine. That would roast a civic.
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Old 02-08-2005, 08:44 PM   #10
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I've seen a Echo with a Celica GTS swap on a custom turbo kit, now that's a hell of a sleeper.

The tag said "TRBOECO"
Mods: focus sport CAI, Apexi turbo N1 muffler, Jackson Racing s/c, focus sport 12lb. flywheel, spec stage 3 clutch, Focus Central orp, dyno-tune, VIS carbon fiber hood and hatch, Eibach pro-kit springs, 215/45/17 Fuzion ZR1
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