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View Poll Results: Have you/someone replaced the battery in your 2012+ Ford Focus?
Yes, please see post #1 for further questions 5 13.16%
No. 33 86.84%
Voters: 38. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 01-28-2014, 11:23 AM   #21
kevinxb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell View Post
I've seen a couple posts now where the person has replaced the factory battery. That strikes me as very strange. Maybe things have changed but, I'm still accustomed to a factory battery lasting at least 6 years; definitely until after the factory warranty has expired.

I'm really curious to know how many people have replaced a factory battery already?

*Further questions*
Build date of the car?
How many miles on the car?
What symptoms lead to replacement?
Build date Nov 2011. I had the car for about 9 months and 7K miles when the battery died. No symptoms, car just would not start on a cold December night in 2012. Got a jump and made it home. Left it at the dealer and they replaced it with a Motorcraft Max unit. No issues since, even in this frigid Mid-Atlantic winter, knock on wood.
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Old 01-28-2014, 02:07 PM   #22
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2014 SE Hatchback. Late August 2013 build and purchased on September 24 2013. Only 2200 miles on it and no problems with the battery - yet. It's been 'really' cold (lows of 0 degrees or colder with highs of 10-15 degrees many days) this winter and I have noticed that if it sits for a few days and I go to start it, the engine turns over a little slower than usual but it does start right up. I've had many cars over the years and this seems to be normal. Batteries don't do well in the cold and these newer cars have so many parasitic connections (alarms/door locks, computer control modules for engine, powertrain, MySync/audio/NAV, safety/airbags, smart junction box, etc.) that are always on in some capacity will constantly pull power 24/7/365 from the battery when the car is not running. I'm thinking of putting a battery kill switch in it and eliminate the problem for when it sits for a week or so. I've done that in other cars with great success.
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Old 01-28-2014, 02:16 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellowhorse View Post
2014 SE Hatchback. Late August 2013 build and purchased on September 24 2013. Only 2200 miles on it and no problems with the battery - yet. It's been 'really' cold (lows of 0 degrees or colder with highs of 10-15 degrees many days) this winter and I have noticed that if it sits for a few days and I go to start it, the engine turns over a little slower than usual but it does start right up. I've had many cars over the years and this seems to be normal. Batteries don't do well in the cold and these newer cars have so many parasitic connections (alarms/door locks, computer control modules for engine, powertrain, MySync/audio/NAV, safety/airbags, smart junction box, etc.) that are always on in some capacity will constantly pull power 24/7/365 from the battery when the car is not running. I'm thinking of putting a battery kill switch in it and eliminate the problem for when it sits for a week or so. I've done that in other cars with great success.
You might not want to do that with this car, as an interrupt between the current draw from the ECU to the battery will likely reset it, and it will then have to 'relearn' your driving style with its adaptive programming. It's less of an issue with manual models, but I'd be very leery of doing that with a DCT.
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Old 01-28-2014, 03:58 PM   #24
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^You turn you computer (the one you post from) off for a week, disconnect all power to it.
You come back and the date/time is still correct and all your setting are still there.

The automotive ECU/PCM is no different.
This business of disconnecting the battery resetting things is a partial untruth. For a good many things there's a mental aspect that changes and not a running condition. And since virtually no one has hard data that removing power changes anything, it's opinion that shouldn't be trusted.

Basically (very) what 'resetting the computer' does is it clears the learned data from when a problem is sensed.
So let's say the MAF is not reading correct (the computer thinks), from the time that data is sensed to when the computer is reset will be cleared. Which means that if the MAF has not been repaired, the same data will be learned.

If there is no problem sensed, no data is lost. That would include driving habits. If there are no fault codes, nothing is lost.
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:39 PM   #25
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Actually, there is no CMOS type 'backup battery' in our cars for any of the computer modules. NAND memory (same as in a flash/thumb USB drive or a Solid State Drive (SSD)) is used in the car's computers for hard coding and nothing is lost there during a power outage. SDRAM is used for the 'adaptive learning' process (soft coding) and that data is lost when there is no power - just like a desktop PC. This is what happens when many of us disconnect the battery to try to 'solve' an unknown problem. Ghost in the machine? Sometimes that works and sometimes it doesn't. Not a big deal at all. When you load a fresh tune all the 'adaptive learned' information is lost and it starts all over from scratch. Every time a tune is loaded the process repeats itself. Again, not a big deal. A fresh start is usually a good thing.

My biggest issue with disconnecting the battery? I think maybe I might get pissed off at having to reset the clock all the time. :)
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Old 01-28-2014, 08:16 PM   #26
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No issues here, sits overnight for a good 13hrs no start in -25/-30 weather and starts no problem
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Old 01-29-2014, 03:36 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell View Post
^You turn you computer (the one you post from) off for a week, disconnect all power to it.
You come back and the date/time is still correct and all your setting are still there.

The automotive ECU/PCM is no different.
This business of disconnecting the battery resetting things is a partial untruth. For a good many things there's a mental aspect that changes and not a running condition. And since virtually no one has hard data that removing power changes anything, it's opinion that shouldn't be trusted.

Basically (very) what 'resetting the computer' does is it clears the learned data from when a problem is sensed.
So let's say the MAF is not reading correct (the computer thinks), from the time that data is sensed to when the computer is reset will be cleared. Which means that if the MAF has not been repaired, the same data will be learned.

If there is no problem sensed, no data is lost. That would include driving habits. If there are no fault codes, nothing is lost.

Back in the 80's maybe but today is different. Unplug your mass air flow sensor CEL comes on cars runs bad sets code. Now plug it back in with out resetting computer light off no codes stored. Found this out while changing to a CAI.
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:29 AM   #28
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These days, CEL's are 'soft coded' (generated from a detected fault by the 'hard coding') and not only self correct when the issue is resolved but also temporarily disappear (most of them) when the power from the battery is removed. The CEL's can come from many things. Sensors that have a bad connection, disconnected on purpose or sensors that have simply gone bad. Most have become 'plug and play' just like a PC. With the PC running, unplug your mouse and a little window pops up telling you something is wrong. Plug the mouse back in and all is well. All without restarting the PC. Automotive computers are getting better with each generation.
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Old 02-12-2014, 12:52 PM   #29
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2012 Titanium, purchased May 2011. Had to replace it approximately 1 year after purchase due to excessive corrosion from the positive terminal eating into the positive harness. Don't remember mileage. All parts replaced under warranty and no concerns since.
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:02 PM   #30
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new battery

My factory Battery was replaced by dealer at about 4k - there were bad cells.

First few symptom were:
- car told me it was shutting down after I turned off the key it would not play the radio
- slow to start in the morning

An over night on the charger didn't help

2013 SE 5 speed
no mods yet -
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