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Old 01-14-2014, 02:47 PM   #21
TBrown1992
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Well, stock filter was put back on.. did a drive 50+ miles out of town, and on the return drive my engine gave out going up a hill on the freeway.. loud knocking noises and losing speed with foot all the way down in 5th at 65mph.. downshifted at 45ish to 3rd and floored it and barely made it over the hill.. once I got over to the other side I hazard off the freeway in the emergency lane, and turned the car off completely, waited for a while, then re started it.. and now it works fine (it feels a bit slower than it did before, but drivable)
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Old 01-14-2014, 02:53 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBrown1992 View Post
Well, stock filter was put back on.. did a drive 50+ miles out of town, and on the return drive my engine gave out going up a hill on the freeway.. loud knocking noises and losing speed with foot all the way down in 5th at 65mph.. downshifted at 45ish to 3rd and floored it and barely made it over the hill.. once I got over to the other side I hazard off the freeway in the emergency lane, and turned the car off completely, waited for a while, then re started it.. and now it works fine (it feels a bit slower than it did before, but drivable)
Take it to the dealer. Something is wrong with your engine.
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Old 01-14-2014, 03:36 PM   #23
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I'm not sure about your sputter problem but, and I hate to say it, but I had a dealership do something similar to me. Had it in for transmission warranty work (DCT) and they told me that the clutch was slipping due to a broken MAF sensor in the Steeda Intake i have that was reading wrong... Needless to say the MAF sensor is more than fine. My guess is your dealer is full of it and don't want to do the work on the car once they saw the intake.
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Old 01-14-2014, 04:50 PM   #24
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Just got back from the dealer.. according to Foreman, I should have received an engine code! This was also said a few months back about my second engine overheat.. but both times without a code the vehiclr cannot be repaired..
there is clearly a computer software issue, because even though when I turn on my car the engine light shows it works, my car refuses to throw any sort of code, soft or hard..
my engine was running lean, my engine has overheated, my engine STILL sputters, and absolutely no codes or any sensors detecting an issue! I'm honestly just starting to lose it over how much my car has had to go to the dealership over things that occur once every few months but the xar refuses to acknowledge them as an issue..

I am now being told by the foreman that next time there is an issue, to just run the car hard until it breaks. So they can find the issue.

I dont know what to do anymore.. help?
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Old 01-14-2014, 10:44 PM   #25
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As long as you know they'll fix it under warranty. I'd be taking the intake off if I was you prior to visits.
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:08 PM   #26
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Try a different dealership?
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Old 01-15-2014, 01:30 AM   #27
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It better be under warranty the car is 2 years old and ive been complaining for months about it..

According to ford HQ i need to stay at this dealer until this is resolved..
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Old 01-15-2014, 08:04 AM   #28
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PM Todd he is a ford servce rep. His name on here is FordService. I am suprised he has not tried to help you already.
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Old 01-15-2014, 02:19 PM   #29
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Contacted FordService.. fingers crossed!
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:53 PM   #30
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So.. been working pretty hard at trying to figure out this big mess, and was recently recommended by ford HQ to go back to the dealership for 1 final attempt..
1) the sputter I am experiencing is claimed to be "normal". Can anyone verify this? Just once engine is warm when you turn it on, with the hood up just listen for a minute.. it should go from a smooth idle to a bit choppy and sputtering, then back to smooth after a couple minutes. Im told its the Electronic fuel pump adjusting itself.. not sure I believe that.
2) my ROUSH Cold Air Intake (according to ROUSH utilizes factory PCM Calibration), was causing my engine to run Lean because the MAF in my car cannot handle the excess airflow and air temperatues it is receiving (claiming the insulation wasnt enough and engine geat was getting to the MAF sensor), and since my engine has overheated in the past (with 100% stock), and since that has happened, Ford might have recalibrated the MAF sensor for a smaller window of fluxuation, so the air intake is going to be worse for it..
Does anyone have any type of charts showing that your cold air intake is not tampering with your 14:1 Air:Fuel Ratio?
im just trying to see if all this is fact or fiction before making a bigger deal of this..
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