SVT Rear Brake Caliper Rebuild - Focus Fanatics
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Old 12-25-2013, 03:07 PM   #1
catmandont
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SVT Rear Brake Caliper Rebuild

I haven't found anything on this here or even in my factory Ford Focus shop manual (it only lists removal and installation), so I figured I'd post this up.

I recently had to replace the passenger side rear caliper on my daily driven SVTF when it started leaking through the parking brake lever shaft. I wasn't happy about the $103 price or the $65 core, but I didn't have time to waste, so I bit the bullet and had the replacement caliper on the car the next day. After watching the "remanufactured" caliper change to a rusty eyesore in only a few weeks, I decided there must be a better way.


After doing a lot of searching, I found that you can get seal kits from the UK for about $45 plus shipping which will cover two calipers, or you can go to O'Reilly Auto Parts and order BrakeBest Hardware P/N 41209 (seal kit) for $4.99 per caliper and P/N 13119 (slider boots and bolts) for $3.69 (covers both calipers). They took about a week for me to receive them, but I ordered four kits so I will have them on hand if I ever have to do this again.

I'll assume (with all of the risk that entails) that you can get the calipers off of your car.




Start by separating the caliper from the bracket. One wrench holds the guide pin, the other loosens the bolt.




Next, pull the guide pins/sliders and boots from the caliper bracket and then set them aside.



Remove the Parking Brake Spring



Now, "pump" the parking brake lever until the piston is fully extended.






Note: Every time you "pump" the parking brake lever, brake fluid will squirt from the hose port. Best to have a container handy.



Now, roll the dust boot lip out of the piston groove and remove the piston. You may have to finish spinning the piston off of the shaft.




Remove the dust boot and piston seal.




Now the fun begins. The parking brake / adjuster mechanism is retained by a snap ring. There is probably a handy-dandy, extra special snap ring plier designed just for this task, but I don't have any, so I used a slender flat-blade screw driver, a pick, and a little swearing (OK, a lot of swearing) to work the snap ring out of the bore.





Remove the parking brake lever nut and then work the parking brake lever off of the splined shaft. I used a medium screw driver and slowly worked each side of the shaft. There is a cup seal between the parking brake lever and the caliper body.






Remove the parking brake cable bracket; this is retained by a torx bolt. You don't really have to take this off, but I wanted to get everything cleaned up as you'll see later.



Time to remove the parking brake / adjuster mechanism. This hung up on me, in the snap ring groove I think, so I screwed the piston back on and used it as a handle.




Last piece out is the parking brake shaft O-ring.



Everything before the clean up. . .



And after the clean up.
I used 0000 steel wool and brake cleaner to "polish" all of the plated parts without stripping the plating. I powder coated the caliper body and bracket.



Assembly is mostly the reverse of disassembly, but I'll try to point out what I think are the important points.
Install the new O-ring into the caliper body (you could probably also slide it onto the parking brake shaft). Note the recess at the bottom of the bore. The "stud" on the parking brake / adjuster mechanism goes into it. If you miss this step, the parking brake probably won't hold, and the adjuster mechanism won't function. Then reinstall the retaining snap ring - make sure you get this right, too.






Install the parking brake cable bracket. I could find no torque specification for this, so I put a drop of Locktite on the threads and made it tight. Not "gorilla grip" tight, just tight.



Then fill the cup seal with caliper grease and install it followed by the parking brake lever; again Locktite and tight. Note the orientation of the lever against the parking brake cable bracket. Install the parking brake spring.





Install the piston seal. Lubricate the seal and dust boot with petroleum jelly. Place the dust boot on the bottom of the piston and pull the "bellows" out. Set the dust boot into the groove in the caliper body and then get ready for more fun. Using a piston tool, "screw" the piston back into the caliper bore. NOTE: The dust boot will get twisted up very quickly - you must continuously work it to keep it straight.







Lube up the guide pins, replace the guide pin dust boots and then assemble the caliper to the bracket.



Put them back on your car and think, "Wow! that looks really cool!" Cheers.





Last edited by catmandont; 12-30-2013 at 06:08 PM. Reason: Cleaning up post
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Old 12-25-2013, 03:44 PM   #2
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It finally posted. Yeah!

Last edited by catmandont; 12-30-2013 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 12-25-2013, 03:45 PM   #3
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Great info! I may try this my next brake job. Now my question, do they have a front rebuild kit for the SVT also?
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Old 12-25-2013, 03:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOADED View Post
Great info! I may try this my next brake job. Now my question, do they have a front rebuild kit for the SVT also?
The Front Caliper seals are P/N 41197 @ $3.49/caliper and the slider boots and retaining clip/spring is P/N H5622 @ $7.99 for the pair.

Last edited by catmandont; 12-30-2013 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 12-25-2013, 06:58 PM   #5
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am I missing something
pics show bracket removal but nothing about the piston seal or parking brake assembly
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Old 12-26-2013, 09:33 AM   #6
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Interested in the rest of this also. Got a how to on the frobts too?
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Old 12-27-2013, 08:43 PM   #7
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OK. I got this posting thing figured out and edited my original post with the whole enchilada. At least I thought I did. Now the whole first post is gone. Maybe when the Mods get back from the holidays, they'll help me out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Black05 View Post
Interested in the rest of this also. Got a how to on the frobts too?
I did the fronts, but didn't take any pics. There's really nothing special about the front calipers - single piston, one dust boot, one seal. Blow the piston out with compressed air (block of wood to catch the piston), clean it up, new dust boot and seal, lube the pins and done.

Last edited by catmandont; 12-27-2013 at 08:48 PM. Reason: Original post vanished.
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Old 12-27-2013, 09:41 PM   #8
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How did the first post start out? From here in tapatalk it looks like the beginning post also labeled #1.
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:23 PM   #9
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Well done, only critique is using petroleum jelly on parts. Not good . Use a silicone base brake grease for all your assembly work Looks Good! Have to do that to my JY calipers I recently picked up.
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Old 01-04-2014, 06:57 PM   #10
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wow very nice how to! really liking that paint what did you use?
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