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Old 01-10-2014, 11:14 AM   #11
DannyG
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Well, I believe I found the reason for the lower compression. As I was going through the rebuild of the engine I took the block over to a local shop to get the cylinder walls honed. They brushed up and evened the deck of the block for me while it was in the shop. Since I already had everything taken apart I decided the get the head resurfaced too so that both would be nice as I was told if the head wasn't resurfaced I could expect a head gasket leak in a few months. Upon further inspection of the head I was told that there was a head gasket leak on all cylinders, which must be the reason for the lower compression. If anyone's curious about cost, honing the block and brushing up the deck cost me $100 at my local shop, the head cost me $25 to even up the surface. Here are some pictures of the block and head after they were done:





Eventually I plan on creating a rebuild thread since this one was originally intended to figure out the reason for my lower compression results. I want to include some pictures, tips, hints, problems I encountered, part numbers, etc, etc.. I'm about half-way through the rebuild so it might be a while. But once I get to it I will post a link to the new thread. Cheers guys, thanks for the help!
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Old 01-11-2014, 09:11 PM   #12
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Great job, look forward to your build thread. Any mods? Clutch, torsen or any motor mods? How many miles?
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Old 01-12-2014, 12:34 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by felixthecat View Post
Great job, look forward to your build thread. Any mods? Clutch, torsen or any motor mods? How many miles?
Thanks! No mods other than a Steeda passenger side engine mount, fswerks exhaust, K&N air filter, and I noticed a Luk clutch while I was taking it apart and it looks pretty thick so I'm guessing it was recently done or not driven too hard. The engine rebuild is being done all OEM and the car has 135,000 miles.
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Old 01-12-2014, 12:56 AM   #14
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I can't tell from the blurry pic,

Can you catch a fingernail on the head? (it looks rough)

If you can, bring it back and tell him it needs to be a finer RA.
Basically he has to slow the feed speed of the table.
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Old 01-12-2014, 03:06 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by iminhell View Post
I can't tell from the blurry pic,

Can you catch a fingernail on the head? (it looks rough)

If you can, bring it back and tell him it needs to be a finer RA.
Basically he has to slow the feed speed of the table.
Sorry for the low quality the block/head photos were taken with my phone. I believe it just came out looking rough in the picture because of the way the light was reflecting off the machined "cuts", but it's really smooth. Doesn't catch a fingernail and feels very smooth. If it was rough would that be a concern?
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Old 01-12-2014, 04:18 PM   #16
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That would be a big concern , it looks rough to me as well

Just because you dont surface the head does not mean you will blow a head gasket , I have put hundreds of heads back on engines that were not surfaced and never an issue

I am not sure what your local place showed you but with the compression you had you didnt have a compression leak at any of the cylinders on the head , your compression was very very close to what it should of been , a good SVT engine average compression will only do about 95 to 98 psi on compression , one with ware will show 88 to 92 psi and a wore out engine I have seen as low as 82-84 and still make 138HP to the wheels

You will not see " normal " compression on the SVT because of the VCT lowers the compression because of the location of the intake cam as your turning over the engine with no oil psi

Tom
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:59 PM   #17
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UPDATE: Progress is being made but was at a stall for several weeks... Engines all put back together and almost ready to be dropped back into the car! Still planning on making that rebuild thread this summer when I have more time on my hands... Going to take a video of the start up and see how it all goes... Lots of good stuff guys! Can't wait
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