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Old 11-28-2013, 08:38 AM   #1
Kal-EL428
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Well, my luck finally ran out. Sheared teeth off my timing belt.

I have been really on the fence for the past year or so about getting my timing belt done because of the cost and I was really hoping to get a new car soon. Well, yesterday my luck ran out, during a cold start up in the morning, I sheared several teeth off the timing belt.

That’s the back story, the reason for the post is a question.

Is the process of changing the timing belt on a SVT the same as on a non-SVT Zetec?

My wife’s uncle owns a shop and while talking with him he made it seem like it was so easy and there was really nothing to it. He followed by saying he has done multiple Focus (Non –SVT).

I know from reading on FF that special tools are needed for the SVT timing belt swap. Are the same tools needed for a non-SVT timing belt change too?

I have never taken my car to a shop for work.
I have always done what I can in the driveway myself and I am a bit hesitant even though he is a professional.


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Old 11-28-2013, 08:50 AM   #2
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In all fairness, never replaced a stripped belt on a VCT engine. usually I would just mark everything and make sure it goes back together. Not in your case.

Also, big mistake. I would put a belt on it anyway to see if it runs, but the SVT has very tight piston to valve clearances so you may have had some contact. Not exactly cost effective...
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Old 11-28-2013, 08:59 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebontoft View Post
In all fairness, never replaced a stripped belt on a VCT engine. usually I would just mark everything and make sure it goes back together. Not in your case.
I don't follow what you are saying?
Don't replace the damaged belt??
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:01 AM   #4
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YES!!!!!!! it is totally different and a pain in the DO NOT LOOSEN THE CAM GEARS!!!!! just get the timing belt kit from gates if you need the pn I will get that for you and you will need the timing tools for the svt becase the zetec timing pin for the crank is just a bit smaller and just put everything back without loosening the cam gears. if you don't loosed them then theres no need to have a timing code unless you don't have the timing tools installed I made the mistake of taking the cam gears off when I rebuilt my svt and I took it apart more than 20 times to get it right!
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Old 11-28-2013, 11:30 AM   #5
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http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/r...alldatapro.pdf


Just follow that guide and you'll be fine.
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:02 PM   #6
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You might get lucky. I've heard of a few people that had timing belts go in the driveway and didn't bend any valves.
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Old 11-28-2013, 03:06 PM   #7
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Back to my original question, is the process for changing the belt on a SVT the same as a non-SVT??
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Old 11-29-2013, 07:04 PM   #8
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No, you have VCT on the intake. I would change belt without loosening the intake sprocket, it preserves the VCT phasing to the cam. But then I don't use the Ford procedure. When you do all that retiming you are actually doing it to simply get the cam-to-sprocket relationship right back to where it was before engine ever torn down and silly to me.

Other than that they are the same pretty much, but the VCT greatly complicates issues for the novice once that VCT sprocket gets loosened.

The link above explains how to time the cams but at page 14 step 12 is where the problems can begin. If the tool does not go back in the back of intake cam after turning engine two turns, the VCT may have moved away from it's 'zero stop position' (conveniently not mentioned AT ALL in the procedure and still a mistake years later) instead of the cam needing the sprocket re-adjusted. Normal since the oil pressure drops off with engine not running to let the VCT move around. If you simply loosen and move the sprocket again you may have messed up and engine will post a code for it. Why I say not to loosen intake sprocket but once you do that the entire Ford procedure given there is worthless and you must know how to do it other ways.

An extra step is needed for VCT engines, when you get ready to put the tool in back of cams you first have to make sure the intake cam is pulled up solid to its' stop inside the VCT sprocket assembly. THEN put the tool in back of cams, if the VCT has slipped rather than the cam not being correct to begin with then the tool will slide right in and correct.

So the difference?

Regular zetec cam timing by crank pin tool in place on #1 @ TDC and cam tool fitted in back of cams.

SVT zetec, cam timing by crank pin tool in place on #1 @ TDC and cam tool fitted in back of cams AFTER VCT is known to be on the end stop position.

FYI, the Ford procedure loosens sprockets to allow all slack to be taken up by tensioner but it ALSO allows the VCT to 'spring up' to its' end stop position since the sprocket has the cam internally loaded to spring one way based on the spring inside the VCT cylinder. It's just that sometimes when engine is turned around the two times, the VCT has leaked oil and the cylinder lets the cam drop back a little bit due to cam being held back by friction caused by valvespring tension. Hence the need to pull VCT back up to end stop again. In fact you have to guarantee VCT is on the stop every time you roll around to recheck cam timing.

Get it right and I guarantee starting up and no issues at all. Been doing it on Contour VCT and no issues ever.
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Old 11-30-2013, 11:49 AM   #9
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SVT #2064 lives on!!!!
The shop just called and told me everything went well and that there was no damage to the head and valves.
They replaced the belt, tensioners and water pump and it only cost me $430 for parts , labor and a 20 mile tow!
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Old 11-30-2013, 12:13 PM   #10
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Now drive about 50-100 miles and see if the light comes on for over or under adv

Tom
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