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Old 11-25-2013, 10:12 AM   #11
mikeeshaq
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To: elsolo:

"""synthetic oil can shrink rubber oil seals, like the rear main

high mileage oils have additives that swell rubber seals

there is a happy medium, most regular conventional oils """


Thank you for this bit of wisdom!
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Old 11-25-2013, 01:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Or, my outside temperature gauge is off by two degrees from the real temp on my brand new car, I'm getting rid of this piece of junk!!

Laughable.

And this did happen.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 03FocusZX3 View Post
BTW iminhell I have got under the car recently and degreased all the oil, made sure the drain plug and oil filter was tight.
Granted new oil is tough to see where it's leaking from but, were you able to find where it seemed to be coming from? Or at least a general area?



FWIW, I had one of the toughest oil leaks of anyone to diagnose/repair. I cracked my windage tray at the mount for the dummy shaft. It would not leak unless I beat on the car. Normal driving it wouldn't leak. And FAIK I'm the only one this has happened to.
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Old 11-25-2013, 02:57 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by 03FocusZX3 View Post
Sigh, I would never get rid of my focus. I was frustrated, no need to criticize me. Anyway, I was told that running synthetic oil then going back to conventional will cause even worse oil leaks? So should I just switch back to conventional oil and maybe use Mobil 1 and put some Lucus oil stabilizer in there?

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No issues with switching between synthetic and conventional oil.

It will not caused worse leaks, but going back to conventional often cures a seeping rear main seal on cars that started leaking after going synthetic.

Don't use any secondary oil additives, just pick a quality oil and use it.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:42 PM   #14
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I personally prefer the valvoline max life semi synthetic high mileage stuff. I also always run 10w-30 after 100k miles, regardless of what any cap or book says. But if its a bad leak like you say, and you just changed the oil, I'm thinking your oil filter may be the culprit.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:55 PM   #15
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Thanks everyone for there smartass but useful comments, found out it was the oil pressure sensor. 20 dollar part, so im pretty happy. Thanks guys!
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Old 11-25-2013, 05:25 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
I personally find it funny that one would get rid of the car over it, life is going to be so kind to one who thinks like that. No way is that cost effective. Be even funnier if only a $10 pressure switch.

Syn oil makes older seals leak, many have reported it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 03FocusZX3 View Post
Thanks everyone for there smartass but useful comments, found out it was the oil pressure sensor. 20 dollar part, so im pretty happy. Thanks guys!


Win.
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:00 PM   #17
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Sigh.......................

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Old 11-25-2013, 09:06 PM   #18
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BTW I didn't know it was something so simple. The car is to low to the ground for me to access the underside, and you all will probably mention a jack or something, yes I could do that, but a lift is more appropriate.... And once again I was frustrated due to this not only being the only problem. I maintain my car accordingly and don't hot rod it, but the constant antifreeze leaks and other various annoyances drew me towards purchasing a newer car. But now that I think about it, it would be a really dumb idea due to the car being paid off and runs great and drives great.

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Old 11-25-2013, 09:12 PM   #19
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One more question so I don't have to start a new thread. What would make the car surge while accelerating at a lower speed around 30mph. The RPM will slightly go up and down. Has been doing this for awhile. No CEL.

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Old 11-26-2013, 10:18 AM   #20
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Are you running the AC when it does that? Mine would noticeably lose performance when the compressor kicked on, and if I was lightly accelerating I could feel when it would engage and disengage.
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