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Old 11-22-2013, 01:08 AM   #11
Tjrommel
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I drive hard, I change oil every 1500-2000 miles (or whenever I suffer enough blowby that it is super saturated in fuel) with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and a Motorcraft (910s). Make sure you use motorcraft filter and an API cert oil for warranty conservation purposes
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Old 11-22-2013, 01:15 AM   #12
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I do a hard break-in procedure and try to have the factory fill out of the car by 100 miles.

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I drive hard, I change oil every 1500-2000 miles (or whenever I suffer enough blowby that it is super saturated in fuel) with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and a Motorcraft (910s). Make sure you use motorcraft filter and an API cert oil for warranty conservation purposes
Something is wrong with your car.
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Old 11-22-2013, 02:27 AM   #13
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It's not bad lol, and I was exaggerating on the saturated with fuel. You just get that hydrocarbon solvent odor after 3-4k. And I disagree with you on the 100 mile statement. I will not claim to know with certainty but I think the primary fill is a blend of proprietary additives including abrasives and friction increasing things for the purpose of popping piston rings, getting the valve boots to seat perfectly and what not as well as drag any Mill scale out of the oil pump. I've heard it is essential though I guess it doesn't matter with the quality of our "throw away" cars. I personally didn't do my first change until like 5500 miles and have done all sequential changes every 2-3k with Mobil 1.
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Old 11-22-2013, 02:37 AM   #14
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Luckily you don't have to agree with when I change my oil. The OP asked for information and I simply gave mine. There is no specific right or wrong or we would all do the same thing and there would be no need for discussion. But in all fairness, this is the first time I've ever heard someone say that they think abrasives are put into oil...

I break-in all my new cars the same way and have yet to have ever had one that uses oil or performed poorly. It isn't just 'change the oil at 100 miles', you have to read the whole statement for it to make sense.

You do realize that now you've given two totally different answers to the OP, right?
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Old 11-22-2013, 02:59 AM   #15
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I think it's you that was a machinist in the USA, correct? You use oil/cutting fluid to lubricate and cool the tooling. When I was in college I took a course label "physics of metal cutting" the oil is essentially an abrasive that micro bores the cutting edge of your tooling to aid in keeping it sharp longer. With our engines, let's go to a perfect world and assume every billet of steel/aluminum they mill/turn down is perfect and the operators are making perfect parts down to the micron... My uncle works at the Sharonville, Ohio transmission plant in gearing. They (the plant) assembled an E40D transmission to exact specs and it wouldn't run, the tolerances were too tight. Now, back to me making myself look stupid: if the sleeves/rings/ valves/seats are all under spec (which is what I'd assume they'd aim for on moving components that rely on a tight tolerance to seal) the Rings would push hard against the sleaves leaving 2 options, fuse weld the Rings to the sleeves due to lack of lubrication or aiding in the grinding of the sleeves in a controlled manner or use a softer oil with xx in it to aid in the slow removal of metal. And in response to giving 2 different answers, I never gave a first oil change recommendation. I didn't proof read this and it was typed on the worst autocorrect in keyboard in the world so sorry if it makes me look even more incompetent than I already am.
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Old 11-22-2013, 03:18 AM   #16
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Also, when you do a hard break in, is it driving like you stole it or solid midrange for 25-50 miles?
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Old 11-22-2013, 09:00 AM   #17
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I drive almost all interstate (100 miles a day) and change at 7,000 mile intervals on full synthetic. Just had the first one just over 1,000 miles ago.
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Old 11-22-2013, 04:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjrommel View Post
I think it's you that was a machinist in the USA, correct? You use oil/cutting fluid to lubricate and cool the tooling. When I was in college I took a course label "physics of metal cutting" the oil is essentially an abrasive that micro bores the cutting edge of your tooling to aid in keeping it sharp longer. With our engines, let's go to a perfect world and assume every billet of steel/aluminum they mill/turn down is perfect and the operators are making perfect parts down to the micron... My uncle works at the Sharonville, Ohio transmission plant in gearing. They (the plant) assembled an E40D transmission to exact specs and it wouldn't run, the tolerances were too tight. Now, back to me making myself look stupid: if the sleeves/rings/ valves/seats are all under spec (which is what I'd assume they'd aim for on moving components that rely on a tight tolerance to seal) the Rings would push hard against the sleaves leaving 2 options, fuse weld the Rings to the sleeves due to lack of lubrication or aiding in the grinding of the sleeves in a controlled manner or use a softer oil with xx in it to aid in the slow removal of metal. And in response to giving 2 different answers, I never gave a first oil change recommendation. I didn't proof read this and it was typed on the worst autocorrect in keyboard in the world so sorry if it makes me look even more incompetent than I already am.
Piston rings have a gap. There not an interference or clearanced part.. engines of the last 20yrs are kept to pretty close tolerances. Yeah theres still some sealant and debris. Theres no self machining between parts going on.
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Old 11-22-2013, 05:26 PM   #19
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There is a H U G H difference in cutting oils/machine and engine oil

You use cutting oil in an engine it will blow in 100 miles or less , engine oil as cutting fluid and you will kill the cutters and catch the machine on fire

Tom
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Old 11-23-2013, 12:42 AM   #20
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I wasn't trying to be a Jerks lol, it seemed logical in my mind... I am novice at Best and I Claim to know nothing. These 84 hour work weeks. Inhaling all the aluminum oxide/argon is getting to me. I always thought that all oils had the same purposes
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