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Old 11-18-2013, 10:18 PM   #11
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I rang my Ford dealership here in Australia and was quoted $398+$29 WTF!!!! does anyone have a link to someone who has a better quality IAC at a cheaper price.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:40 PM   #12
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This is interesting, why did you decide to replace the IAC in the first place? You replaced a lot of other stuff that might indicate a rough idle or vacuum leak condition. How many KM/miles on the car?

If it were me (and kind of like paulg mentioned), I might try disconnecting the electrical harness to the IAC and then try starting the car with just a bit of foot throttle to see if that changes conditions. Obviously the IAC becomes redundant past a certain engine RPM/throttle position, so I'd try to mimic a predictable idle. If that's inconclusive you might fully remove the IAC and mock up a relatively airtight block off plate where the IAC would normally be and try again. When I say relatively I'm thinking of a cardboard cutout with some shopping bag secured to one side and then maybe held in place. You can tell the idea is to include/exclude it by any means possible.

Hell, I'd try any redneck thing before spending $400 for an IAC.

Again, what were the conditions that prompted you to replace the IAC?
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:08 AM   #13
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Yep there was an idle issue but after each sensor that was replaced the idle was improved on it now seems to idle ok it just the first time start that's the issue.
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:51 AM   #14
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just a thought...have you tried starting with the A/C on? I'm assuming that since you're in spring, it hasn't been warm enuf yet to use it.

I was able to eek another several months out of my IAC by starting the engine with the A/C on. When warm, it wouldn't start with A/C off.
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:05 AM   #15
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I started the car this morning with my foot on the peddel a little she started up went straight to almost 2000rpm and stayed did not cut out took my foot off the peddel she dropped to 1000rpm and stayed as she warmed up.
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Old 11-23-2013, 02:37 AM   #16
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I've ordered another IAC again.
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Old 11-26-2013, 03:18 AM   #17
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The IAC I ordered from Germany arrived yesterday and I installed it today before I started the car for the first time but still did it I have reset the ECU and see what will happen tomorrow morning. The idle is allot better it sits straight on 900rpm's when warm. The IAC has been part numbered matched to the original. The new IAC came with a paper gasket it's on the car as well but if it does it again tomorrow I will look at removing the paper gasket and just have the rubber gasket and see what the result is after that.
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Old 11-26-2013, 05:18 AM   #18
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It seems to me that the IAC wasn't doing it's job before, but I don't think that was it's fault. I think the reset wasn't done properly. I've noticed with mine when I reset the ECU that it won't give me a startup idle- where it idles high for 20 secs or so depending on weather- until it's cleared through a few steps.

Try this with a warmed engine- disconnect negative battery terminal. Wait 5 mins, reconnect, start engine without touching the accelerator. The idle might be slightly high, but that's ok, allow the engine to idle for 5-6 mins without touching the accelerator. If you touch the accelerator, you will reset the test. This is a 5 minute timed test during which you'll see the idle fluctuate slightly. When the test is done, the idle will drop to where it should be which is around 700.

With a cold engine if you start up without touching the accelerator, you should have a high idle like 2k rpm (depends on ambient temp), and that idle should slowly drop as the engine warms up over 30 seconds or so. Again, this time period depends on how cold the engine is, and the ambient temperature. This is completely normal, but if you are not experiencing this startup high idle, then your ECU is not completely reset. It should do this while you drive, but if you allow it to idle for 5-6 mins like I described that will satisfy the test needed for normal idle operation.

As far as IAC's go, I typically advise people to clean those first. It's a really simple device, but it can be damaged by simple things- like debris or carbon buildup. Cleaning is easy- use any carb cleaner, and wipe the inside with a Q-tip. You can even operate the plunger with a Q-tip. Make sure that the plunger is sealing the 2 chambers. As long as it moves easily, and the chambers are sealed- it should be working. You can do a resistance test across the pins on the connector. If you don't get a reading, then the IAC is not functioning. The solenoid is fairly reliable, and should function as long as you have electrical continuity of some sort between the two and there is no mechanical resistance from the plunger.
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Old 11-26-2013, 06:36 AM   #19
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My brother has the sedan version and same year as my hatch and had his much longer then me his idle from cold start is around 1000/1100rpm's then drops to to about 900/890rpm's when warmed up. I have also checked with some other guys and seems to be the norm here in Australia.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:11 AM   #20
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^gravity's different down there
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