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Old 11-02-2013, 11:10 PM   #1
mwalt2
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Help Quick Disconnect - Anderson Power Pole

I am trying to make it easy to disconnect my sub/amp to free up space in my hatch when needed. I ran 4 gauge power and ground wires and bought a 175A #4 AWG Anderson Connector to use as a quick disconnect for the power and ground wires. Now I need to figure out how to attach the wires to the power poles for use in the connector. They're pretty big and about 1" of bare wire goes inside the connector. I've attached some pictures to show the size.

I don't really want to crimp the wires because 1) I don't have a crimper sufficient for #4 AWG and 2) if I misshape the power pole too much, it probably won't fit correctly in the connector. I tried putting solder inside the power pole, heating the whole power pole up, and shoving the wire in. This did not work too well when I first tried it...probably because I did not put enough solder in. The bare wire doesn't really fit in the power pole too easily and gets mangled if you try to shove it in quickly with several strands of wire bunching at the bottom of the power pole (not to mention melting the insulation off of the wire).

There have been many great threads on here that helped me with the rest of the install, so I'm hoping someone will have a good idea on how to go about attaching the power poles to the wire (should've just went with 8 gauge wire lol). Is adding more solder and pushing the wire in still the best bet?

Edit - after searching more, it appears there are crimpers out there for these (LINK). I doubt I'll spend $90 to use it 4 times, so any other ideas would be welcome. :)


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Old 11-03-2013, 04:35 AM   #2
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Pre-tin the end of the wire so it's saturated with solder before inserting into connector.

Let solidify, and make sure you can slide it into the connector (you may have to file off solder blobs).

Put wire into connecter and solder.


Plus you need a high output soldering gun or iron to heat things up enough
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Old 11-03-2013, 08:45 AM   #3
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emsvitil is right on the money. Because of the wire size, it's going to be difficult if you don't have a soldering iron with active temp control, but a butane powered iron is handy for situations like this and they get hotter than H*ll.
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Old 11-03-2013, 10:57 AM   #4
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Thanks for the replies. I'm new to soldering, so I have a few more questions. Are you saying that by pre-tinning the end of the wire, that will be enough solder to hold things in place? Am I understanding correctly that I would add lots of solder to the end of the wire, let it cool, shape to fit in the powerpole, put it in the powerpole and then heat the powerpole enough to melt the solder again? I have a propane torch to heat things up enough, though I'm sure there are better tools out there.
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Old 11-03-2013, 11:30 PM   #5
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May I ask where you got the connectors? I just got my powered sub installed today and want to do the same thing.
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Old 11-04-2013, 01:27 AM   #6
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You also add solder when the connector gets hot enough. (test hotness with the solder, it will melt into connector when things are hot enough)

The flux in the solder helps melt everything together.

Add solder until the connector gets full.
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Old 11-04-2013, 08:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lite12 View Post
May I ask where you got the connectors? I just got my powered sub installed today and want to do the same thing.
I bought them from Ebay. It was the cheapest I could find and came with everything you need to make the connection (2 connectors and 4 powerpoles). I think the seller has other sizes/colors. LINK
Quote:
Originally Posted by emsvitil View Post
You also add solder when the connector gets hot enough. (test hotness with the solder, it will melt into connector when things are hot enough)

The flux in the solder helps melt everything together.

Add solder until the connector gets full.
Thanks again
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Old 11-05-2013, 02:32 PM   #8
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A simple distribution block makes this really simple to accomplish.
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Old 11-05-2013, 03:00 PM   #9
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A simple distribution block makes this really simple to accomplish.
I'd agree here with you but I think he is looking for a really quick disconnect. I know a distribution block wouldn't take much time at all, but I'm sure he is looking to not have to dig out any tools.

I do have to say though I hope you are securing down your subwoofer box. Taking quick corners, hitting hard bumps, quick acceleration/deceleration can send the subwoofer box sliding and possibly rolling around which is never good.
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Old 11-05-2013, 05:39 PM   #10
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Solder is your best bet. Also makes for a really clean looking install.
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