How-to....Paint interior trim easily. 56K friendly. - Focus Fanatics
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Old 04-26-2009, 10:22 AM   #1
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How-to....Paint interior trim easily. 56K friendly.

All the photos I post in this thread are around 100k ea.

The idea here is to totally avoid touching the surfaces to be painted.....and I assume you'll be using a can of spray paint (your choice). These cans spray best if held level.......this method allows that.

You simply get a set of clamps (available everywhere). For a big heavier piece of trim, you'll need a big/strong clamp, maybe two clamps......ones that will hold the trim securely when the trim piece is moved to different positions. I also attach a bungee cord to the clamp, so when the painting is finished, I just hang it somewhere to dry.

Attach the clamp to the rear securely, clean the surfaces to be painted with solvent (your choice).....and never touch the trim again. Hold it with the clamp only, and when finished painting, hang it up. For small pieces you use a smaller clamp. Use a rubber glove to keep paint off your hand. The technique works well.








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Old 04-26-2009, 12:18 PM   #2
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I had a problem with paint runing, and I think having it upside down would make it worse, wouldn't it? But i love the clamp idea, thanks!
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Old 04-26-2009, 12:54 PM   #3
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The painting is done with the can right-side-up......you just hold the clamp and move the trim around as you paint.
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Old 04-26-2009, 10:45 PM   #4
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I had a problem with paint runing, and I think having it upside down would make it worse, wouldn't it? But i love the clamp idea, thanks!
Paint running has more to do with overspray than it does with the orientation of the object you're spraying. That isn't to say that objects facing certain directions can make it easier or harder, but you should be able to get a decent coating on something upside down if you're careful.
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Old 04-26-2009, 10:50 PM   #5
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Paint running has more to do with overspray than it does with the orientation of the object you're spraying. That isn't to say that objects facing certain directions can make it easier or harder, but you should be able to get a decent coating on something upside down if you're careful.
So basically, thin layers is the best method?
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Old 04-27-2009, 12:42 AM   #6
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yes thin layers on multiple time....im doing mine.. i threw them back in the dash half done because i was going on a day trip.... but i think i was diong mine to heavy. thats why it wasn't very good... plus i did do a little sanding to the first paint to rough it up and see if helped. and it did a little.. BTW nice write up
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Old 04-27-2009, 06:31 AM   #7
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You should always use thin layers. If you want it to have a smooth look and touch when you're finished, make sure you put 5-6 coats of clearcoat over the paint at the end. Let the final coat cure for an hour or so and then use some polishing compound to lightly smooth out the clearcoat. Wax and you're done.
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Old 04-27-2009, 07:03 AM   #8
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I don't like a shiny surface on interior trim pieces......so I never clear-coat. I've painted quite a few interior pieces so far, some red dash parts, and a lot of black trim. Most of these pieces are not subject to wear, so a clear-protective coat is not particularly necessary.

There are a few trim pieces that do get some wear......the trim piece by the door sills. Your shoe slides over this piece and will cause scratches/worn sections. If you want to paint this, a clear-coat will provide protection. For now I'm leaving that piece the OEM gray.
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Old 11-08-2013, 02:04 AM   #9
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I have learned that a hand span away is good and overlap by 50%. A hand span away from whatever you're painting would be the distance from the tip of your thumb to the tip of your index finger. I don't know if this will apply to cans.
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