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Old 09-24-2013, 09:28 PM   #31
Magus2727
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That choice is yours. I am just stating the facts that to get the camber you want you will have to manipulate the stock parts. I am not sure what Oval requirements are, but for the racing I have been looking into and have been around the top 3 positions get the cars inspected and if someone suspects something then the car gets torn apart. if nothing is found the person who made the accusation pays for rebuild. if they do find something its up to the owner to repair it, they are striped of there medal and I think they get kicked out for the season.

Just know what if someone knows the focus does not have adjustable camber and sees you with visible amounts of camber who knows.

Like said I don't care, as that is a racing style I will never be doing. and my car is far from stock so will never be in a race with you.

As far as slotting, I dont know how much camber you can get out of them. I think with the C-F-M tubular arms they say: "The QA1 rod ends allow for a practical range of camber adjustment. There is no need to purchase camber plates with these control arms."

most camber plates are 2-2.5*. so i would say you can get up to 2 by slotting. so assuming your at 0 at stock. You can also see what you can do with the sleeve the strut mounts into. I would not play around with that to much but may be able to gain 1-2 by honing it out, sleeving it ad a slight more angle. And then there is the adjustment of the body work of the strut tower.

Other option I suppose is you can get a new pair of control arms, and cut them in half where there are no ford stamping or number and then take the old ones cut them also in similar area, take a small length and then get it tig welded in (likely need it sleeved and extra support inside) and then grind down the welds, and repowder coat. Will look like new and stock. Not sure the strength of the control arm though. But same thing goes with the slotting of the ball joint holes.

All of this stuff can compromise the strength and integrity of the suspension so take care and make sure you think about what structural changes you are making.

The last thing you want is to have the suspension go wrong in the middle of the race and be the cause of multiple vehicles being damaged.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:48 PM   #32
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Thanks for some great ideas Magus2727. I'm going to keep it simple. I'll replace the ball joints and see what kind of results that brings with a little honing. Its similar to what I did with the Mazda, The track is okay with this type of modification as I'm still using stock parts and adjusting them to get the needed results.
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:15 AM   #33
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Usually cutting and welding of suspension parts is not allowed for safety reasons. I'm good with that--no need to have people hurt when some idiot's bad welding lets go in the middle of a turn. Safety stuff is not worth compromising...after sitting on the track watching a guy get cut out of his car and airlifted to hospital, this is my conclusion.

Lowering (even just cutting a coil or two off the spring), moving the ball joint out, and maybe throwing in a washer under the inside strut mount bolt, should get you enough camber to be able to reuse your front right tire more than once. And get around those nice banked turns faster, all without looking too obvious.

Hoping it doesn't rain this year...still remember the mud bowl a few years ago that left us stranded at the bottom of the field because it was too slick to make it up the hill to line up. Then tossed crud all over the track when we did get there. We usually park in the last row, closer to the track side than the highway.
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:53 PM   #34
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Inertia switch is removed and cutoff switch has been installed inside the right rear window. I'm picking up the lower ball joints tomorrow and installing them on Saturday. I've put the jumper cable in the fuse box so the fan comes on as soon as you turn the key on (was also a post on this site). I think I'll install a switch to toggle the fans off at start up on the cool days. My next job is to replace the catalytic converter with a straight pipe. Anyone know where I can get one cause I don't think there is enough pipe there to cut it off and weld a pipe to it.
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:05 PM   #35
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most people just gut the stock one... that also works.

Pick up some drill bits... the rivets are large and out of a harden material.
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:05 PM   #36
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Good work!

Not sure on the exhaust.
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:26 PM   #37
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Can you give me an idea of what you mean by " gut the stock one". I haven't removed the exhaust yet so I don't have a visual in my mind. Thanks
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:34 PM   #38
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you use a hammer and crowbars, and long screw drivers, or other such devices to basically destroy the Catalyst honeycomb. you bang on it and brake it up still there is nothing left. but on the outside it looks like you still have one. but audibly you can tell ( at least on a aftermarket exhaust), not sure how different it is on a stock exhaust.
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:36 PM   #39
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Ok thanks. I'll give it a try.

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Old 09-26-2013, 09:40 PM   #40
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once you start there is no going back..... but its basically a ceramic honeycomb so hard blows will brake it up. This the the "poor mans" way of a straight pipe. I think some people say that the change in volume removes some of the gain one sees by removing the cat with a true off road pipe. not sure of your reasons if its to gain power or not. Or also if you are allowed to or not and your trying to make it look like you have one.
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