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Old 09-27-2013, 11:45 AM   #51
MTB79
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I ran the engine for a bit looking for leaks again and noticed one radiator hose was hot for about 5mins before the other one got hot, is that right?

I think I am going to change the thermostat and housing as reading they seem to be prone to failure. I may replace the cylinder head temperature sensor too as it seems cheap enough.

I will see if they make any difference and report back.
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Old 09-27-2013, 11:52 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTB79 View Post
I think I am going to change the thermostat and housing as reading they seem to be prone to failure. I may replace the cylinder head temperature sensor too as it seems cheap enough.
The housing is prone to failure, but it lets you know when it fails by leaking coolant at a fairly high rate.
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Old 09-27-2013, 01:13 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTB79 View Post
I ran the engine for a bit looking for leaks again and noticed one radiator hose was hot for about 5mins before the other one got hot, is that right?
Upper Radiator hose shouldn't get hot until the thermostat opens up. It will get warm as there is a small hole in the thermostat to allow flow, but in a cooling sense is insignificant. The lower hose may take a while to heat depending on ambient temperature.

The heater hoses, that go from the thermostate housing to the firewall, should heat up first. There is no shunt device on that route.
The coolant replesnishment hoses that go to the resevoir should not get hot until the cooling systme is at temperature.

Did I miss what color your smoke is? "I let it get hot enough for the radiator fan to come on, then I checked the idle response and it was slow to drop but plumes of light grey smoke came out the exhaust. I smelt it and it wasn't sweet like coolant, just smelt like exhaust fumes." Depending on the condition of the coolant, a leaking head gasket might not smell very sweet.
Because the system is supposed to be sealed, if you open the drain cock on the radiator without opening the system elsewhere, it will indicate how big a leak my be. After the first qrt or liter drains, the amount draiing should slow down based on how much air is getting into the system. If it stops after the first qrt, open the coolant cap to let the system finish draining. Also measure the total amount of coolant that drains to see how far off it is.

My pessimissm is thinking bad thermostat leading to a low volume head-gasket leak.
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Old 09-29-2013, 11:32 AM   #54
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Ok, I drained the coolant with the system sealed and it came out at this speed all the time

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zB6P...e_gdata_player

I reused the coolant as I had none to replace with, I put it back in and ran the engine with the expansion cap off, but the level is really high, it wont drop to what it was before despite idling for about half an hour?
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Old 09-29-2013, 11:39 AM   #55
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Also all the pipes from the expansion tank are cool still, after 35 mins idling
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Old 09-29-2013, 12:29 PM   #56
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Took 90mins for the coolant to settle back. The radiator fan didn't come on once in that time.
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Old 09-29-2013, 02:56 PM   #57
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From the Hanes: Cooling system-Refilling
13 Close and tighten the radiator drain. Reinstall the thermostat.
14 Loosen the clamp and detach the heater hose from the engine. Fill the cooling system with new coolant through the hose until it begins to flow from the fitting on the engine. Use a funnel inserted in the hose to prevent spills.
15 Connect the heater hose to the fitting on the engine, then fill the expansion tank with the coolant mixture up to the MAX mark.
16 Install the expansion tank cap, then run the engine at a fast idle until it reaches normal operating temperature (Run it till the fans activate twice.)
17 Turn the engine off and allow it to cool, then check the coolant level. Add coolant as necessary to bring the level up to the MAX mark. Check the system for leaks.”

The engine speed has to be raised in part to increase the rate the water pump is running to force any air bubbles through the system. A faulty impellor on the water pump will make the procedure difficult to complete.
I did not follow this procedure, but squeezed the upper radiator hose to help get the air trapped there out.
Did you replace the CHT sensor(head temp sensor)? A bad CHT Sensor will cause the PCM to not enter Fail-safe cooling mode or switch the fans on.
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Old 09-29-2013, 04:12 PM   #58
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I haven't replaced the CHT sensor yet, I am struggling to find one here in the UK.

I am wondering about my water pump.

I noticed one of the pipes running from the thermostats to the fire wall has a collection of calcification around it. Also, my thermostats housing is metal?!
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Old 09-29-2013, 04:24 PM   #59
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Sometimes the problem with a great car is all that regular maintenance gets forgotten till it creates big problems.
Yeah for the metal over plastic outlet housing.
Maybe lost in translation, have you searched for a temperature gauge sender? http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford...3368_c_371.htm (Found Escort unit? maybe the same?)
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Old 09-29-2013, 05:57 PM   #60
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Metal thermostat housing, bonus!
Water pump, highly suspect. Also suspicious of blockage since the level didn't settle for so long. Either one or both.
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