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Old 09-24-2013, 05:47 AM   #21
mac_chanic
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Hi New here. Since it only occurred after fuel change, I assume you have wrong fuel? or one of the tank breather pipes is blocked.
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:40 AM   #22
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Need to look at the issues as seperate. Excessive heat from HVAC may very well be thermostat or other issues with engine cooling. Coolant always flows through heater core.
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:38 PM   #23
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Ok, done a few checks. Hoses in and out of the radiator are both hot when its been driven for 10 mins. Stuck the air con on and both fans kick in.

I am convinced I can hear a faint hiss coming from somewhere to the right of the inlet manifold but cannot pin point it, or confirm that its not normal. Would a cigar and a length of hose be an adequate diagnostic tool for leaks?!

I think the cylinder head temp sensor and thermostat would be a good first point to replace as they seem cheap and easy to do myself?
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:06 PM   #24
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Normal operating temperature is above boiling at normal atmospheric pressure. IF the cooling system is not sealed you could be boiling.
Your symptoms of high idle could be air leak suction. If the cooling is leaking, you could have hiss of air/coolant loss. Such a leak could keep the systme from replenishing coolant from the resavoir because no suction is developed there. Is there pressure built up at the coolant cap (BE CAREFUL.)
Use a short piece of garden hose as a stethoscope to help pinpoint the source of the hiss.
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:59 AM   #25
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Dumb question, how do I check if there is pressure at the coolant cap?

I have just had another, maybe ridiculous thought. When I start the car in the mornings there is a squeaking, like I have a nest of birds who have just spotted their mother with a mouthful of worms in the engine bay. It stops after a minute or so, I presumed that this is my serpentine belt slipping a bit to begin with.

Now I dont know if its my imagination but the steering has felt a little heavier recently, the serpentine belt drives the power steering pump, and also the water pump doesnt it? Do you think that its possibly slipping making neither work as efficiently as it should be accounting for the high temperature? Is that even how it works?
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:52 AM   #26
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A service station has a test cap to check for pressure.
The dangerous method is after the engine is at temperature, shut off the engine and then unscrew the cap till it leaks. If pressure is relieved you should hear it and the coolant will boil. If you dare this, you should have gloves and a rag over the cap to avoid coolant burning you.

Squealing is almost certainly the serpentine belt. The timing belt can also squeal on the idler pulley(s). Squealing would indicate a bad tensioner or containanation of the belt. Serpantine drives water pump, alternator, A/C compressor (if equipped) and power steering pump. The water pump is driven by the flat side of the belt where the remaining accesories is driven by the ribbed side, so you could have slippage on the water pump.
You could have a failing water pump that is leaking. You may have a front seal (oil, crank) failed causing oil contanimination....
If it hasn't been done, you need to go ahead and do a complete belt and hose inspection as well as check bearings that the accessory belt rides on.
I am of the opinion on timing belts (original) should be changed around 10 years even if mileage hasn't been met. Subsequent changes should be at 50-80% that schedule.
A rare event I have seen post on was a thermostat housing failure where a piece of the housing broke off interanlly and made its way to the water pump impellor and then wore the impellor down till it barely caused coolant to flow. Might not be your case, but sometimes the strangest things do happen....
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:24 AM   #27
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So the fans work, and there is coolant flow into and out of the radiator. But your temperature sensor is still bad if it's not lighting up the dash warning.

If your alternator is charging the battery (i.e. no dash light coming on, no low-power symptoms) then the serpentine belt is likely running okay and you'd expect the water pump to be failing or partially blocked. Possible that it's slipping on a failing tensioner or idler, too, but I'd expect battery problems would show up before overheating if that were the case.

I think your likely culprit is the water pump. Mind you, we still haven't figured out the high idle...unless changing the gas cap fixed it.

If you're doing the thermostat as well, check the inside of the housing for crumbling plastic...yes, they're plastic and a common failure point.

Last edited by Leora83; 09-25-2013 at 10:27 AM. Reason: Correction
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:37 AM   #28
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I've changed a few late 90's early 00's taurus water pumps that the impeller blade had corroded off n one the impeller was spinning on the shaft...
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:16 AM   #29
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Right, I have just started it and let it idle, I have pin pointed the hiss to this thing but I cannot feel anything coming out...



I let it get hot enough for the radiator fan to come on, then I checked the idle response and it was slow to drop but plumes of light grey smoke came out the exhaust. I smelt it and it wasn't sweet like coolant, just smelt like exhaust fumes.

I then wrapped my hand and carefully took the expansion tank cap off, there was only the slightest hiss of pressure and no boiling up of coolant. In fact it was only gently steaming.

I am puzzled.
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:29 PM   #30
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Another angle of the part...

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