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Old 09-20-2013, 01:00 AM   #11
MTB79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiller View Post
No. The EVAP hoses in the engine bay. A failure of any EVAP hoses before the Purge valve should cause a code.
Go ahead and replace the fuel cap. Its really the only thing that changes that should matter after you add fuel.
Most anything I can think of that could increase the rev/idle speed wouldn't be allayed over driving after fill-up....
When you fill up, do you keep the radio playing? Are the keys in the Run position?

I take the keys out and the radio off.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Leora83 View Post
No CEL? I've only had the gas cap go bad once, and it threw a code for Large Evap Leak (can't remember the P number offhand). And if you're only ever filling halfway, it seems even less likely.
That said, a new cap will only set you back $15-20.

When you say it returns to normal after a few days, you mean RPMs of around 700-800 at idle? Or it just stops hanging at 3000?
Having played a bit it seems to return almost to normal if you leave it sat for a few hours. Idles around 800 but the falls slowly for a day or two when your foot is released from the throttle.
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:31 PM   #12
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Ok, I think I misread the situation. Was stuck in traffic for an hour today and the symptoms started again, this is leading me to believe its a temperature issue and not fueling. I am guessing that what was happening was that after driving I pulled into fuel and the car couldn't cool itself whilst I was stopped hence the problems starting then. The temperature gauge reads normal but the engine is really hot.

Does this sound like a bad thermostat possibly?
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:41 PM   #13
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Or temp sending /sensor which ever it uses for gauge temp...do u have a temp gun or able to plug into computer to see actual engine temp?
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Old 09-23-2013, 03:37 PM   #14
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No, I have no diagnostic tools :-(
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:32 PM   #15
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by jims shadetree View Post
or able to plug into computer to see actual engine temp?
I don't think that would give you good data if the temperature sensor (Cylinder Head Temperature if like our US 2.0L) is faulty, then the computer will see that bad read.
Your latest symptom report is while sitting in traffic, the revs (idle) increased? We might like to have a complete description of that latest occurance.
An overheated engine should run badly and rev lower at idle.
A heat-soak could lead to a deformation in the intake manifold seals (but that also needs a bad/low torque on the fasteners) allowing an air leak increasing RPMs.
Also, have you had any work that would have needed the exhaust manifold to be removed? Any other major work?
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:05 PM   #16
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I don't think that would give you good data if the temperature sensor (Cylinder Head Temperature if like our US 2.0L) is faulty, then the computer will see that bad read.
Your latest symptom report is while sitting in traffic, the revs (idle) increased? We might like to have a complete description of that latest occurance.
An overheated engine should run badly and rev lower at idle.
A heat-soak could lead to a deformation in the intake manifold seals (but that also needs a bad/low torque on the fasteners) allowing an air leak increasing RPMs.
Also, have you had any work that would have needed the exhaust manifold to be removed? Any other major work?
Yeah, it was stop start for an hour, after about thirty mins after I moved about 20 feet each time the rev's would sit a bit too high, started idling at over 1k then got progressively worse until it was idling at 2.5k unless the throttle wasn't touched for a good 5 seconds then it would return to about 1k. When I got home the car was very hot, my brother came over and as he came in commented on how he could feel the heat walking past it.

Thing is the first time this happened I was in similar traffic and stopped for fuel and it started then, second time I had been driving at a steady 70mph for 30mins and it started again after I stopped for fuel.

It seems to be fine unless driven for over half an hour.

I have had no work done recently bar rear wheel bearings. There has been a squeaking from some belt on start up on damp days for the first minute or so but that's the only thing that's out of the ordinary I can think of.
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:44 PM   #17
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Odds are if you (and others) are noticing the heat off it, then it's overheating.
Check the usual suspects--fan resistor and wiring harness (my first inclination), thermostat, water pump, radiator and hoses, even coolant level. If any of those is bad, replace it, then get your temperature sensor replaced too, since it seems to have failed.

The high idle symptom seems backwards to what you'd expect from overheating, but you might have two or three issues going at once which are confounding the diagnosis.
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:12 AM   #18
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This appears to have a 'similar' problem

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=212448
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:01 AM   #19
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Noticed one more thing, today was the first time I needed the heater on for 6 months or so, and it is coming out of the vents so hot you cannot hold your hand in front of it as it burns you. This is after only 5-10 mins driving too.
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:05 AM   #20
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Sounds like better get it figured out pretty soon or will be putting another engine in along with fixing the hot issue....
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