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Old 09-13-2013, 05:10 PM   #21
ZXthrizzle05
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I wish I did. I got a 2000 manifold coming my way so hopefully that won't leak boost
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Old 09-13-2013, 10:32 PM   #22
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^^^^ Did u get it from spauldings in Spokane?
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Old 09-13-2013, 11:56 PM   #23
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actually I was about to get his until I got a PM from a member saying he had one and wold do a straight trade for my 3 inch maf tube extra one that I have
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Old 09-14-2013, 08:04 AM   #24
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Awesome... Can't beat that deal...
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Old 09-14-2013, 09:25 AM   #25
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Looking at what the 2000 intake manifolds go for make me happy that I got mine at the junk yard for $25.... need to stay on the look out for future 2000 intake manifolds!

Got the JB weld set and in the intake manifold. I need to make a run to home-depot today to pick up some sanding discs for the rotary sander. will use that to get it mostly flat, and then will use a metal block that I know if flat to finish it off. Also need to pick up some more JB weld as I ran all out and if there are bits i need to fill in due to air pockets or such will need some on hand.

Will also be picking up some sanding drums for the dremmel to do the porting.
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Old 09-14-2013, 11:18 AM   #26
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I rtv the shit out of my manifold to throttle two days ago let it sit over night and now the car wont start
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Old 09-14-2013, 12:26 PM   #27
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Frankly guys, I wouldn't give two cents for a helicoil stuck in that plastic, it should pull loose lickety split with any decent force. Try cutting threads in the plastic and you'll see why. The reason why deep biting plastic screws are used there. Any shallower and the thread simply pulls out. Helicoil should do the same. Plastic threads have no strength unless they are DEEP.

You can size the plastic screws to sheet metal ones and go up to next size, that holds fine again until you pull them out too. I mike the inner diameter of the new sheetmetal screw and then run a same size drillbit in to let the screw go in using thread only, the bigger body can split or crack the hole. Why the silicone gasket is a slight crush only, Ford knows that part takes no torque without stripping. And why better to try to seal a paper gasket by using only part of the surface there for localized crush, sanding entire thing flat makes you have to tighten more to seal. 'Course you can always glue it up.
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:08 PM   #28
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I wasn't planning on filling the valleys on my intake manifold... Just bolt and go... I would be afraid the rtv would bulge and almost seal off the iac holes...
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Old 09-14-2013, 02:20 PM   #29
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AMC49 - of the 4 holes you can down and through the plastic flange. this would allow you to also have a nut on the back side, so if you got a long enough stud you can have a nut on the back side

Also if I have leak problems with the paper gasket, I can pull the paper gasket and the spray both sides of the paper gasket with: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...sealant-detail

I am using JB weld. so no bulg and thermal expansion will likely not be an issue either.
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Old 09-15-2013, 04:28 AM   #30
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'AMC49 - of the 4 holes you can down and through the plastic flange. this would allow you to also have a nut on the back side, so if you got a long enough stud you can have a nut on the back side'

If so that might well be the way to go bucko............have not looked into it in great detail.

If you spray gasket, make sure it tacks up good, still in liquid state it will let a thin paper gasket squish out of place to screw up. Personally I would be inclined to put it on dry first.

I would be more concerned with JB weld long term sticking to plastic, the close proximity of gasoline will only make that worse. I've had trouble making epoxy stick to thermoplastics, even degreasing them six ways from sundown.
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