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Old 09-12-2013, 09:00 PM   #11
amc49
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ALL plugs out and throttle wide open when you do it, yes, necessary. Better numbers with engine warmed up too. Or supposed to be anyway. Do yourself a favor and recheck each cylinder at least twice for backup. Simply screwing in the gauge too far can wrinkle an o-ring seal out of shape to lower the number, I usually unscrew the gauge a bit and screw it back in on rechecks.
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:53 AM   #12
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If the head gasket really is blown like they said at the shop, can I do more harm by running the engine to warm it up before doing the compression test? I'm guessing if the gasket is really bad the car won't even start. I just don't want to do any further damage.

On another EXCITING note!!!!....After talking it over with the wife we are officially going to take this car out of our daily driving routine. Second child on the way and she would like to get an SUV. I have gotten 100% blessing to keep the vehicle and turn it into a spec focus!!!
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Old 09-13-2013, 09:58 AM   #13
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You dont have to warm it up or hold the throttle open etc etc

The big thing is to turn the engine 4 cycles and do each cyl the same if you do each cyl the same testing it then you have numbers to compare and that what your looking for

Yes the books says hot , TB open , all plugs out etc etc but that isnt needed for 95% of what compression tests are needed for

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Old 09-13-2013, 07:36 PM   #14
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Well no coolant in oil, no oil in coolant, no pressure back through the over flow while running, idles fine. I'm going to do a compression test tomorrow morning and let you guys know what I find. Hopefully compression is fine and I can rule out the head gasket. Then I guess i'll have to figure out why it was over heating....
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Old 09-14-2013, 12:49 PM   #15
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4 cycles and all the same? The engine will turn that many times almost instantly before you can hardly even let go of the key. You crank until pressure quits rising on the gauge, the numbers WILL relate to each other even if one turned 10 times and one 20, the squeeze only goes up so much and quits. Never seen one in forty years that didn't. In fact slower rising of pressure on one is another indicator of problems, much easier to see that by spinning engine more. Meaning you WANT to see if one has to turn 20 times as compared to another.

I've also seen throttle not opened affect numbers easily by 30-40 pounds, no way there. Sure these have default open IAC but what if stuck shut? Opening the throttle takes the issue out of the equation and much more reliable numbers there.
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:10 PM   #16
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Getting ready to test the compression. One more dumb question before I begin. To get the throttle full open, can the person turning the key just step on the gas. Or is there a way to make sure its definitely 100% open under the hood? I Know on Carburetors you can just pull the cable, is there a similar thing to do with the fuel injection?
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Old 09-15-2013, 07:46 AM   #17
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Well did my compression test this morning. This was done on a cold engine, unfortunately. Just totally slipped my mind to warm it up first. Tested each cylinder twice results were as follows....

C1 C2 C3 C4

190 190 175 190
190 195 175 190

C3 is obviously low. Literally right at the bottom end of the 8% tolerance. I did notice that the fitting threaded in a little differently on the third cylinder. I then put everything back in, started it up, and took it for a drive. 20 minutes idles perfect, had it on the highway a little, and no sign of over heating at all...

Should I be worried about the low compression on cylinder 3? Or can I close this thread and start trying to find the route cause of the overheat in the first place.
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:38 AM   #18
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You're fine there.
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:51 PM   #19
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My first thermostat housing/gasket failure would leak only at temperature/pressure. Sometimes no leak, sometimes a little. Once it looked like it threw-up after parking. I refilled coolant after that event and went another 2 weeks waiting for it to do again. Of course this was when it was my wife's DD.

113k, eh? Do you know if the timing belt has ever been replaced? If it hasn't, by mileage its due.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:11 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
4 cycles and all the same? The engine will turn that many times almost instantly before you can hardly even let go of the key. You crank until pressure quits rising on the gauge, the numbers WILL relate to each other even if one turned 10 times and one 20, the squeeze only goes up so much and quits. Never seen one in forty years that didn't. In fact slower rising of pressure on one is another indicator of problems, much easier to see that by spinning engine more. Meaning you WANT to see if one has to turn 20 times as compared to another.

I've also seen throttle not opened affect numbers easily by 30-40 pounds, no way there. Sure these have default open IAC but what if stuck shut? Opening the throttle takes the issue out of the equation and much more reliable numbers there.
I dont agree , I was always taught and most boks say the same is you turn the engine 4 revolutions for a 4 cycle and 2 revolutions for a 2 cycle to do a compression test , cranking the engine over and over and over in my opinion isnt the proper way to test compression , cranking till the pressure stops does not give you an accurate compression psi

Tom
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