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Old 09-02-2013, 08:53 PM   #1
Natedog
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Newbie timing question 04 svt

I have found alot of useful info on this site over the years as i buy and sell cars on the side one of my joys is buying nice spi cars and swapping in zetecs from wrecked ones ,super easy swap! Now i have found an 04 SVT with 95k for my wife to drive back and forth to save on gas.When i bought it ,it had a lower end noise which turned out to be a very bad spun rod bearing ,i was planning on rebuilding until i ran across a great deal on a used engine with around the same mileage from a rollover.Got it installed now it wont crank.It is getting fuel and seems like its getting spark,i will check that in depth tomorrow,i was in a hurry.When i got the motor which had already been pulled the guy pointed out the sensor on top of the valve cover ,im guessing cam sensor,was broke ,no big deal i will just use my old one.My question is could this car have jumped a tooth or so when the other car flipped?The timing belt is on and tight,is there dots on the top gears to see if its in time without pulling the engine?Any and all help is greatly appreciated.


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Old 09-03-2013, 01:08 AM   #2
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if the new motor has 95k on it you need to do the timing belt and tensioners anyways. or else you will need a third motor.
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:27 AM   #3
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Yes and I will replace tensioners and water pump as well.Did a little more investigating this morning ,jerked the valve cover off and couldn't get the notches on the end of the cams to line up so if one or both is off what is my best bet?My idea was to get it in time with the current belt and head to see if it did any damage to the head.then go from there, any ideas?
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:08 AM   #4
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Make sure you have the engine set at 60 degrees before TDC. There is a little notch on the crank pulley to line up with a casting line in the upper oil pan tray. Or better yet, if you have the timing peg that goes in the front of the engine to stop the crank at the same position.

If the cams still won't line up then something most likely jumped timing. However the timing can be off a tooth or 2 and the engine will still start.

The sensor on the very top under the SVT cover is the Variable Valve Timing Solenoid (VCT). Swap that from the other engine and try firing it up again.
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:21 AM   #5
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You don't have to do the water pump at the same time. It is just as easily replaced on it's own. Belt and tensioner definitely need to be done.
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:33 PM   #6
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Timing peg , is that something I can make like the cam plate? I will line up the marks on the crank pulley and oil pan this afternoon and go from there
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:46 PM   #7
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You could. It is just a bolt that is machined smooth with just threads at the top first 1/2 inch by the head of the bolt. You remove the stud/ nut to the left of the crank sensor and put this in it's place right before the cam plate lines up. Or bring the crankshaft close to the timing marks and then insert the bolt. You'll feel the crank stop dead in its tracks as it lines up with a flat spot on the crank shaft.
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boardliquid01 View Post
You could. It is just a bolt that is machined smooth with just threads at the top first 1/2 inch by the head of the bolt. You remove the stud/ nut to the left of the crank sensor and put this in it's place right before the cam plate lines up. Or bring the crankshaft close to the timing marks and then insert the bolt. You'll feel the crank stop dead in its tracks as it lines up with a flat spot on the crank shaft.

Does it matter how long the bolt is? I got to looking and didnt see any marks on the pulley or casting mark on the upper tray.I have the car on a lift with the pass wheel off so i have a great view the pulley has surface rust so i will clean it this evening or tomorrow and might could see it then .I changed the vct solenoid as soon as i installed the engine with one that i knew was good off the old motor.
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:33 AM   #9
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Ok so this morning i used a dowel to get TDC, then looked at the crank pulley and noticed a "nick" lining up with the casting mark on the upper oil tray,took a look at my old crank pulley and it has the same nick in location to the keyway. So then i look at the cams and they are quite a ways from being straight across ,should they be?If this concludes its out of time ,then off comes the head,unless there is a way to check for bent valves with the head on.I will upload some pics of the marks and cams today at work if i can find time.
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:03 AM   #10
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Sorry, was at class last night and didn't see this.

Yup, timing is off then. The mark on the crank pulley does just look like someone hit it with a chisel or something. I would reset the timing and then do a leak down test on each cylinder to check for bent valves.

The torque specs for the exhaust cam is 50 ft lbs and the intake cam VCT is 88 ft lbs. You just line up the crank to the casting mark and use that peg you made. Then loosen both cams (the intake VCT has a oil plug that has to be removed first to gain access to the bolt). rotate the cams accordingly to line them up to install the cam plate. Have someone hold the intake cam using a 1" wrench on the flat spots on the cam while you torque it to 88 ft lbs. You have to be careful when torquing the cams because if they move you break the end of the cam where the cam plate is. Most people will torque them after removing the plate. Once the intake cam is torqued, have someone hold the exhaust cam with some channel locks or something and torque it to 50 ft lbs.

After you have the timing set correctly, rotate the engine around a couple of times to make sure the cam plate lines back up. Then do a cylinder leak down on each cylinder at TDC so all the valves should be closed. If you're loosing air, you'll hear it at the exhaust or the intake.
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