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Old 12-29-2013, 11:07 PM   #51
Lite12
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BTW: I ran ALL the wiring to the rear on the same side and have no hum/noise going on, just a simpler run :)
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Old 01-03-2014, 03:32 PM   #52
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Talking Done! Thanks DoogieB

Just a quick post to thank DoogieB on this - just finished the upgrade using the same parts (db6501, db651, ktp-44U, parrot adapter) and it came out great.

Just doing the speakers last week was a great improvement, then adding the alpine really helped out the bottom end. I'm happy enough for this as the family car.

If there was a good spot of wasted space for a stealthbox like my Firebird has in the rear corner, I'd think about putting one in. But I love the total-stock look of this upgrade path, and I need to keep all the hatch cargo space.

My install notes:
  • I ran a separate 12ga amp power wire I had laying around from the battery to the head unit. Punched a hole through the big grommet on the passenger side to run the wire behind the glovebox, then tied to the alpine's power lead
  • I spliced a ring terminal on the KTP-445U ground wire and tied it to ground at one of the two bolts that sit above the glovebox. Good path to frame there, no new holes or screws needed
  • The KTP-445 also fits nicely end-in underneath the radio, no worries about the two wire harnesses interfering with the vents on either side
  • I used the power antenna wire (Pin 2 on the radio connector) for amp turn-on. I figured it's be better than having the possibility of the amp switching on and off if there's lots of silent spots in the audio, ex bluetooth phone conversations. Easy enough on the bench with the parrot adapter
  • I used plastic epoxy to secure the tweeters to the brackets. Cut a few of the tabs to allow it to angle right and it worked fine. Scuffed with scotchbrite and cleaned with isopropyl alcohol for surface prep
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Old 01-07-2014, 03:33 PM   #53
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Subwoofer Upgrade

I wasn't going to bother posting about the sub upgrade since it is a rather straight-forward install, but there's a bit of interest in the project as a whole and I did take a few pictures during the installation.

During these few months, the KTP-445U amp and speaker installation has been working flawlessly. The main benefit of the upgrade as described was that you didn't have to cut the factory wire harness or run additional wiring which is a huge time and frustration saver. Unfortunately, with a sub you really need to run additional wires, but at least all the wire cutting stays within the Parrot harness.

Goals of the upgrade: Strengthen and extend the bottom spectrum of the sound system output without going crazy with money or taking-up excessive trunk space. Rattling the neighbor's windows is not necessary.

Parts:

JBL GTO8004 8" Subwoofer
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amp
ROckford Fosgate RFK8X 8 AWG Amp Install Kit



I found this forum post helpful:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280887

Since I didn't have much time to complete this project, it was necessary to use the published specs of the driver rather than doing my own driver testing. A JBL driver was used since they have a pretty good reputation of actually making drivers to specs. Also went with a sealed enclosure for minimal total volume and deepest bass output (not thumpy 45 Hz bass).

The amp chosen accepts high level (speaker) inputs and has a Low Pass Filter along with gain control so a active sub crossover is not needed. You also get a remote knob to adjust the amp's output from cabin. The driver enclosure was constructed of 3/4" MDF in the typical manner. The enclosure exterior dimensions are 10.5" x 10.5" x 8".



I ran the power cable through the firewall using the clutch cable opening which is described well in the link posted above. Here's another picture of the opening from the engine side with the battery removed.



The clutch-plate cover is soft and rubbery so it worked fine as a grommet.

All the wires were ran together to the trunk along the driver's side. I haven't noticed any hum problems with all the wiring being close together. The wire bundle consists of four high-level speaker wires for the sub amp input signal, the trigger (on/off) wire for the amp, the power wire for the amp from the battery and the remote volume control from the amp that was fastened under the dash.

To make things easier when running the wires quick disconnects were used for the signal and trigger wires from the Parrot harness. I was stumped for awhile on what connector to use for the signal wires, but went with using a set of old PC 12V power connectors that were removed from a computer fan. Worked great! And here's the Parrot harness with the back speakers tapped for the sub signal wires. Obviously you want to tap the signal wires that go into the KTP-445U from the HU.



To get the trigger wire lengths correct, the harness was tapped for these wires while it was installed in the car. A 3M wire tap was used to connect the trigger wire that goes into the KTP-445U to Pin 2 "Power antenna" which is the orange/black wire in the Parrot harness. The blue trigger wire at the output of the KTP-445U has a crimp quick disconnect to the wire that was run to the sub amp in the trunk.



Don't forget to set the HPF filters in the KTP-445U at this time.

I don't have any pictures of running the wires back to the trunk. It's a pain in the arse, so be ready for a few hours of frustration. I believe the seat stayed, but the seat belt anchor had to be removed.

For a week the system was burnt-in and tested with all the wires and amp just laying on the floor of the trunk. The levels were initially set with a 1/3 octave warbler plus signal meter and then fine-tuned by ear for personal preference.

One tip: If you have trouble with buzzing in the door panels, especially from those big-balled radio announcers, it's probably from a massive frequency peak around 160 Hz (This occurs with or without the subwoofer). It was possible to mostly dial this problem out by turning the HU bass down a few notches and then turning the sub amp up a bit more to compensate. Less boom, more punch.

After the system was working well and tuned-in, it was time to permanently mount the amp. After some thought, it was decided to take advantage of the sedan layout and mount the amp under the trunk ceiling. It's a pain working upside-down to install in this location, but you gain these benefits: the amp is completely out of the way, no concerns with overheating and it's easy to adjust the amp settings if needed.

Here's a pic on how to hold the amp while drilling the mounting holes



If you need to get at the spare tire, it's simple to disconnect the speaker wires from the sub and lift the entire unit out. The sub doesn't take-up that much space, especially when you look at the normal load of junk I haul around:



Wrapping Up:

While I'm extremely biased, I think this system is better than any factory system I've heard. For certain types of music, I would say adding the sub adds almost as much as the original speaker upgrade . The HPF on the KTP-44tU keeps those 6.5" drivers from attempting large excursions, so even classical or Sinatra sounds better with the sub. Lately I've been on a techno/trance kick and a good powered sub is absolutely mandatory for that type of music which features heavy, deep bass. From my SPL meter and warble-tone generator measurements, I'm getting good response to around 30 Hz. I can still turn up the sub amp if I need to rattle the license plate even more.
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Old 01-25-2014, 08:47 PM   #54
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Doggieb, I'm going to do the ktp and speakers for now until I can get my sub amp and sub back from my other car. Do you find that the speakers can keep up with the sub?

I was going to do a full setup with a processor and 4 channel amp but I really don't want it loud just want it to sound better, plus I don't really want to run all that extra wiring and stuff.

One last question, did you find any adapters to plug the oem plugs into the after market speakers?
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:28 PM   #55
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Can anyone confirm that the parrot harness will work with Sync? Just the 6 speaker stereo but with Sync. Also do the wire colors from the harness actually match the alpine inputs? ie front rear right left positive negative. I just want to use the harness to install an LC6i going to an Alpine MRX V70 powering 2 sets of Infinity 609cs and a Pioneer TS SWX251 subwoofer. By the way the Infinitys sound awesome. Getting the tweeters fitted took some work In the front doors seeing they are almost 2"wide. The rears are surface mount in stock location. Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:33 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walleballr View Post
Can anyone confirm that the parrot harness will work with Sync? Just the 6 speaker stereo but with Sync. Also do the wire colors from the harness actually match the alpine inputs? ie front rear right left positive negative. I just want to use the harness to install an LC6i going to an Alpine MRX V70 powering 2 sets of Infinity 609cs and a Pioneer TS SWX251 subwoofer. By the way the Infinitys sound awesome. Getting the tweeters fitted took some work In the front doors seeing they are almost 2"wide. The rears are surface mount in stock location. Thanks in advance.
All the harness is doing is splitting the speaker wires so you can feed it to another source and then send it back such as the case of this amp. For a line out converter or sound processor you would just send the output signals from the harness to the loc then do the rest from there. As far as the wire colors according to the first post they should all match the alpine inputs.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:22 PM   #57
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I just meant that the plug is the same on the back of the HU on the "premium sound" and the "premium sound with Sync" I would hate to do all this prewiring to find out that it doesnt. I also wanted to make sure the channels would all be correct as well. Time to break out the soldering iron
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:29 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walleballr View Post
I just meant that the plug is the same on the back of the HU on the "premium sound" and the "premium sound with Sync" I would hate to do all this prewiring to find out that it doesnt. I also wanted to make sure the channels would all be correct as well. Time to break out the soldering iron

Pretty sure it's the same. The speaker wiring diagram I saw for the 6 speaker only has 4 channels coming from the radio then the tweeters get crossed over externally
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Old 01-27-2014, 08:27 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jvs1991 View Post
Doogieb, I'm going to do the ktp and speakers for now until I can get my sub amp and sub back from my other car. Do you find that the speakers can keep up with the sub?

One last question, did you find any adapters to plug the oem plugs into the after market speakers?
Wadda ya mean? Output-wise? I find I start getting a headache if I listen to the system for awhile at more than a 100 db and that's at volume setting 8 or 9 with the KTP turned down the whole way, so I think you have plenty of headroom. I did some testing with earplugs at some higher SPL's and didn't notice any distortion, but then again I didn't build this system for competition.

The new drivers were installed into the salvaged factory speaker mounts and connected to the factory connector. One picture shows this very clearly.

Just to be clear on this, the sound system in my 2012 Focus is the Premium (6 speaker) Sound System with Sync. Not MFT, just the regular Sync.
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:08 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoogieB View Post
Wadda ya mean? Output-wise? I find I start getting a headache if I listen to the system for awhile at more than a 100 db and that's at volume setting 8 or 9 with the KTP turned down the whole way, so I think you have plenty of headroom. I did some testing with earplugs at some higher SPL's and didn't notice any distortion, but then again I didn't build this system for competition.



The new drivers were installed into the salvaged factory speaker mounts and connected to the factory connector. One picture shows this very clearly.



Just to be clear on this, the sound system in my 2012 Focus is the Premium (6 speaker) Sound System with Sync. Not MFT, just the regular Sync.

Perfect thanks. I saw the picture in the first thread right after I posted, pays to read carefully.

Yeah I really don't need a lot of boom or people down the block hearing me coming. Just want a little better sound quality than the 6 speaker system. It sounds really awful once you hit any volume higher than 6.
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