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Old 05-12-2014, 04:21 PM   #71
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Drop a U-joint and see. Could be a linkage issue (and TRS bypassed).
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Old 05-13-2014, 03:08 AM   #72
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Very cool indeed. I thought about it. I really did. But decided to do a duratec swap instead. Still damn cool and a def. follow. R
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:07 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell View Post
Drop a U-joint and see. Could be a linkage issue (and TRS bypassed).
Its in neutral. Not anything wrong behind the bellhousing. It would be an input shaft to flywheel issue if there is anything.
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Old 05-25-2014, 06:36 PM   #74
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Opened up the bottom end. loosened all the rod bolts and made crank easy to turn. Started tightening them up one at a time. And the third one made hard again. Crank looks good, bearing doesn't. Guess its time to plastigage.



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Old 05-25-2014, 06:36 PM   #75
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Took all the caps off and polished the journals. Noticed when I torqued 5 (one I had a problem with) and had the cap off of 1, I could spin it. So I hit the edges (contact points between the two rods) with some 600 grit where there was some rough spots. All seems good now.

I need to get some new bolts before putting the oil pan back on. I didn't notice before but the Explorer bolts are a hair too long to tighten all the way with a Mustang pan.

I have a video as soon as it uploads.

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Old 05-26-2014, 02:45 PM   #76
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http://youtu.be/KQl6htZBARU
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:16 PM   #77
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Why do those bearings look so dry?
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:05 AM   #78
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Because I cleaned them. Assembly lube was use on reinstallation.
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Old 05-31-2014, 03:20 PM   #79
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Cha-ching

http://youtu.be/rrgXpgv0u_Y
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Old 06-01-2014, 10:49 AM   #80
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Still the most interesting build thread on here! Congrats on having it running again. I can't wait to see this car in person someday soon. Hopefully you'll be able to drive it down to Louisville for a meet at some point!
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