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Old 09-02-2013, 10:29 PM   #21
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The DSI on the SVT alone, does all of nothing.
It's the VCT that matters more and gives the nice TQ band.


And speaking from experience, valve float sucks.
Buy springs.
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:18 PM   #22
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Might be a little OT but since its brought up. What does occur on the Zetec when you have valve float? Quick reading says as long as the valve does not hit the piston there is no damage. Just an inconvenience that you ran out of usable RPM's.

Edit: so when I get the upgraded springs it sounds like the Comp cams are still good cams. Or should I look at cams that have the larger lift (Crower stage 3/4) due to the valve train having the ability to handle the higher lift?
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:01 AM   #23
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Bigger the better IMO. But keep in mind that the head probably needs to be clearanced for the cams. Grind out clearance for the lobe.

Basically, when you hit valve float you stop making power, the cam stops controlling the valve. It's moving so fast the valve spring basically opens and closes the valve W/O the cam. It sorta resonates.
On my setup it happens above 7K, and I rev to 8,500. So I'm loosing power up there. But I need the rpm so my shift points and intake speeds match. A closer gear ratio and I wouldn't need to do this.
At some point I'll have to buy springs for the SVT cams.
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:04 AM   #24
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Springs and stg3 Comps if you have the supporting mods

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Old 09-03-2013, 09:28 AM   #25
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mods would be 65mm TB, SVT exhaust (SV exhaust header, CAT, and 2.5" Cat back Magnaflow), cold air ram (Iceman tube w/ Focus Sport heat shield & cone filter), 2000 intake manifold, built bottom end, head will have a valve job. Will have new crower valve springs and retainers. lightly ported head just to have the intake ports match up from intake manifold and head.
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:37 PM   #26
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Compression?

More compression (to a point) will really help. A lot hinges on the tune, and Tom knows what he's doing so no real issue there, but higher compression should still be very streetable.
I don't know what pump gas out there likes but Me, I'd shoot for somewhere in the mid 11:1 final compression.
Even with cams you've got room to shave the head and gain some. And it's the cheapest way to gain compression.
Depending on pistons, you could go higher and mild deto wouldn't be a real big issue. Unless you have forged pistons. They don't take detonation as well as hypereutectic. IMO. All depends on when deto happens though.
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:48 PM   #27
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My plans are to be a turbo build in the end so I have gone with 9.0:1 compression JE pistons so I can handle the boost better when I get the turbo in a few years. the hope for going with the cams is to have something that will give me more grunt for the few years while I am still NA and working on the Turbo kit.

So in regards to compression I don't have any in the more compression side. Talking with Tom this should not be a problem during normal driving. I have also be advised on staying with OEM head gasket so no thinner head gasket to up compression. also have been advised to only shave the head a few mills to keep it true and flat so no additional compression there. I am thinking I will be around 9..0 - 9.1:1 after the 1-2 mil was removed from the block and the few mill get removed from the head.
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:31 AM   #28
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Wonder how much power you will loose going to lower compression and then how much you will gain back with the cams and other mods?
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Old 09-04-2013, 04:20 PM   #29
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Probably not as much as your thinking, though it would be definitely down some power with the lower compression.
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