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Old 08-03-2013, 06:57 PM   #1
Laminar
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2013 SE Hatch Stereo Install - Stage 1 complete

Hello all, just picked up a 2013 Focus last Monday, Ford rebates were too good and I couldn't pass it up. I chose the SE without MFT, we have it in our Edge and I'm not a fan. I rented a Focus a few weeks ago with the standard stereo and realized how much I prefer physical buttons. For the past year or so I'd been planning on getting an ST but common sense won out and I decided on the SE, we'll be looking for a real fun car next year.



I pulled the sub and amp out of my old car before I sold it, so I had those parts available to me. I followed suit after Yanner and others here and picked up a pair of Polk DB6501s for the front and DB651s for the rear.

Stage one was to get the door speakers installed, amp wiring to the hatch area, and hook up what I had available. Stage two will be to add an LC7i, a second amp, and to build a sub box for a forthcoming shallow-mount sub (right now I'm leaning toward a RF P3SD2-10). I'll lay down some 1/2" plywood in the trunk floor then cut out holes in the foam for the amps to sit down in. The sub box and the amps will then be anchored to the plywood floor so nothing goes flying around.

It was a bit disconcerting tearing into a car that I'd only owned for four days, but I really wanted an improvement in audio, and I just happened to have a couple of days off of work, so the timing was in my favor.

Others have covered the in-depth details much better than I, so I'll stick to a top-level view.

Pulled the glovebox out to get access to the firewall.


Pulled the passenger side panel off to get access to the head unit wiring.


Ran the amp power wire through the wiring harness grommet on the passenger side of the firewall. I added wire loom to protect it and zip tied it to the wiring harness all the way over to the battery.


Here it is coming out of the firewall and entering the trim. Without removing the trim I was able to tuck the wire underneath all the way to the back seat.


I did pull the trim by the back seat so that I could make sure it was routed properly into the trunk.


Started pulling more interior pieces out:




Wife was gone for the weekend, so I sent her a picture to make her nervous.


I wanted to run the speaker wires away from the power wire, so out came the passenger seat and the rear seat bottoms.




With all of that out, it was easy to snake the wires out of the console and through the carpet, up to the hatch. I actually used trailer wiring for the high-power speaker wires. It's 4-conductor 16-gauge wiring with an extra weather-protection coating on the outside, so it was perfect. I used four-conductor serial cable to get the signal from the head unit back to the amp.

I went ahead and tapped into the Orange/Yellow antenna power wire for a +12V signal but didn't end up needing it - my amp has speaker-level inputs with an auto-turn-on feature when it senses input.

To make the speakers fit properly in the doors, I cut spacers out of 1/2" MDF for the fronts and 1/4" MDF for the rears. I used foam spacer and double-sided foam tape to hold everything tight and prevent any vibrations.







For now, there's no rhyme or reason to cable management, as everything will change once I get the LC7i and second amp in place.

As it sits now, two the amp's channels go to the two front speakers, and the other two channels are bridged to the sub's dual voice coils.




(As you can see, my dog has taken one ride in the hatch. So much for a new clean car.

The box was designed to fit perfectly behind the wheel well in my last car:


Since the Focus is quite a bit smaller (28" shorter, actually), I'll be building a new enclosure so that I can maximize available hatch space. No point in buying a hatch if I'm going to fill it up with subs.

I'm very happy with the audio improvement already made. I just won a Pioneer GM-D8400M mono amp that should push 300W RMS at 4 ohm into my sub of choice. Once that arrives I should be in even better shape as all four door speakers will be amplified and the sub will have an extra 100W RMS to play with.

Thanks for everyone that has posted information on wiring diagrams, speaker installation, and interior disassembly, it came in handy many times!




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Old 08-03-2013, 07:21 PM   #2
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Very nice when can you start on mine.... LOL
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Old 08-03-2013, 07:26 PM   #3
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I did the same thing, within 2 days I had the car ripped apart to put in the new stereo my wife just shook her head lol. I'm interested to see what you do for an enclosure. I was going to build a box in the spare tire well but its too shallow to house my jbl sub. I may need to buy a shallower sub.

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Old 08-03-2013, 07:50 PM   #4
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Wow impressive. I pulled off the hatch cover and freaked. I wouldn't tackle what you have done. Outstanding.
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Old 08-05-2013, 03:30 AM   #5
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Moved to Car Audio, SYNC, MyFord Touch & Electronics.
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:29 AM   #6
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Nice job
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Old 08-12-2013, 09:23 AM   #7
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Stage 1.5 complete. Need to do some cable management and cleanup, but the basics are in place. Now to build the sub box!

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Old 08-13-2013, 02:25 PM   #8
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Couple questions.

1) AC / heater duct under the seats. How the hell do you get that thing to stay in place? Mine keeps falling out on the drivers side.

2) How hard was it to remove the door panels. When I boguht mine someone appears to have butchered them before. Looks like screw driver marks all over the covers that you pry off by the door handles. Made me think twice about trying to remove my door panels, but I suppose it's just as likely that whoever did it was an idiot.

I was thinking about replacing the sony sub and speakers, however there is no real point at this time since when I turn up the radio the entire car vibrates/rattles to every drum beat or even with just vocals from an audio book. Sometimes I lean over while driving and have to pull on the passenger side door on the freeway to get rid of the vibrations because they are driving me crazy. Ford seems to want to give me the run around claiming that they will not warranty that problem since the door panel appears to have been removed before (So much for Ford Used Certified). I may have to take matters into my own hands once I have some free time (maybe this winter).

I really appreciated your pictures and I surprised to see the foam already in the door panels from the factory. I almost want to pull my panels off just to see if someone removed it all. I have a feeling someone removed it to pop out a dent or re-paint one of the doors and that's why my audio is terrible. In fact I'm almost willing to bet money on it. My door panel seems loose on the passenger side, does the foam press against the door panel? Could missing foam be my problem? Otherwise looking at the TERRIBLE job someone did when removing the panel I'm willing to best they broke some of the door pops as well. I just Can't get over the screw driver marks when I think about it a little more, maybe the guy who removed the door panels is a professional car stereo thief since those are the same kinda marks that I had when someone stole my Head unit out of my truck.

Amen to the physical buttons, especially while driving! They should have at least put a pause button on the steering wheel, so annoying to have to jump through touch screen windows on MFT just to pause something. I have never used the touch screen to set the temperature, I always use the physical buttons.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated View Post
Couple questions.

1) AC / heater duct under the seats. How the hell do you get that thing to stay in place? Mine keeps falling out on the drivers side.
I didn't touch the unit on my passenger side, so I can't help you out there, sorry.

Quote:
2) How hard was it to remove the door panels. When I boguht mine someone appears to have butchered them before. Looks like screw driver marks all over the covers that you pry off by the door handles. Made me think twice about trying to remove my door panels, but I suppose it's just as likely that whoever did it was an idiot.
The hardest part is pulling the panel off - there are several clips that hold it in place and you really have to yank to get them off.

On the front doors, I used a plastic Bondo spreader to get under the silver trim and pop it off. Once that's out of the way, the window switch assembly will pop out and the two screws are visible. To get the door handle trim out, I used a pick set. I used the round part of the loop/hook to press against the front of the plug so that the rear of the plug popped out, then used the 90 degree pick to get under the rear of the plug and pull it out, exposing the third screw. The reflector slides out hiding a fourth screw, and a plug on the back of the door panel pops out revealing the fifth screw. The tweeter panels pop out without tools, then it's a matter of working around the outside of the panel and getting the clips to pop out. There are a couple of other threads around here that do a good job of showing pictures of the screws and spots to hit. I was just sure to use the Bondo spreader any time I had to make contact with the door panel so that I didn't gouge the crap out of it like a screwdriver would.

Quote:
My door panel seems loose on the passenger side, does the foam press against the door panel? Could missing foam be my problem? Otherwise looking at the TERRIBLE job someone did when removing the panel I'm willing to best they broke some of the door pops as well.
It may be worth taking a look. No part of my door panel seems loose at all. Maybe you're missing a screw or two?
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:05 PM   #10
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Wow, I was considering doing my audio replacement myself but yikes...even half of this work seems daunting.

Looking forward to hear what you think about the final results.
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