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Old 08-10-2013, 07:09 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by bwh13 View Post
I decided to test my theory on the hot air affecting the driveability here in Phoenix. The temp today is 105, car was doing the shuddering just off idle when taking off from a light. I took the car thru a car wash where the air temp dropped to 81. Just like magic the car takes off without any shudder after pulling out of the wash. The outside air temp stayed at 81 for at least 5 minutes and the car definitely runs much better.

Although not a scientific method of determining the effect of cooler air intake on driveability, this info can help us figure out a way for better running when hot. Now we just need to figure out how to keep the intake air cooler.
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:54 AM   #32
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I tried this fix this morning. My initial impression is that idle and low end throttle response are improved. However, given this cars tendency to arbitrarily drive better / worse based on day of the week, temperature, humidity, daylight savings time, moon phase, high tide, etc., I will need a few days to be sure.

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Old 08-10-2013, 09:09 AM   #33
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I noticed similar symptoms after I installed my Steeda CAI. If I accelerate like a granny would it is sluggish and sounds like the car should downshift. This generally happens when I'm trying to keep the sound down when accelerating. If I drive it like a maniac it's fine.
Same thing happens with my car....and I don't even have a CAI. I can barely ever take off slowly from a stop without the car being stupid
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Instead of a "Dual Clutch", "Dual Personality" might be a better name.
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:15 AM   #34
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from what I understand the Ford cold air works on all MKIII's. Could be wrong. Its warranty approved as well
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:19 AM   #35
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Pulled the strap & found sizeable gaps on both tubes. Sealed with duct tape. I've got a tank of premium in her right now, which makes it run real smooth under all conditions; I'll do the next fill with regular & see if the stumbling/lag is reduced. As it's quite warm where I'm at right now, if it was sucking warm underhood air I should notice a difference.
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Old 08-11-2013, 01:43 PM   #36
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Thumbs up

I did this mod a few days ago after reading this thread... after a few "long hot day trips" I had forgotten that I did this mod and was pleasantly surprised when I noticed my Focus had a lot more low end power when driving around the city. Took all of 2-3 minutes to complete. I used something called "Tarp Tape" http://www.sportys.com/ToolShop/product/17796 to seal the gap, works well and I keep a roll in my trunk organizer for emergencies.
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Old 08-11-2013, 01:55 PM   #37
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cool - I used some self adhesive weather stripping from the hardware store.

I am curious to see how the drive to work goes tomorrow (36mi in a lot of stop and go traffic).
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:20 AM   #38
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Unbelievable. Drivability in stop and go traffic was significantly improved. The dangerous throttle lag/hesitation seems to be gone. Low end power is more or less smooth and linear. As a result, the transmission did far less stumbling and bumbling and grinding.

OP - if this holds, you are a genius.

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Old 08-12-2013, 07:53 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan50 View Post
In the 19,000 miles I've had my 2012 DCT-equipped Focus I've complained about lousy throttle response (bogging, surging,etc.) and DCT behavior (lunging at launch, mostly). I've stumbled upon a solution that eliminates 80% of my issues. Best of all, it only puts the car into the condition in which it was supposed to leave the factory and it's easy.

So those of you with these problems, try this. I'm curious if it will work for you:

1) Facing the car with the hood open, look on the right side and note the two intake tubes coming from the air filter compartment and going through the front bulkhead. (these tubes go through the bulkhead and attach to the intake horn located where cooler air is available for induction)

2) At the point where these two tubes meet the bulkhead, they are secured with a rubber strap that latches on the left side. Undo this latch.

3) You will see that the bottom of these 2 tubes are supported by a rubber base guiding them through the bulkhead. The top half of these tubes, though merely butt up against the bulkhead.

4) The top of these 2 tubes are supposed to be sealed by the rubber strap. In my car, not only was there a 1/8 inch gap between the intake tube and the bulkhead, the rubber strap didn't fit securely enough to creat a seal.

5) Thinking this was not what Ford intended, I sealed the gap with a little duct tape and overlaid that with a layer or two of adhesive felt, then reinstalled the rubber strap.

6) To my surprise, my driveability issues largely went away. My car now behaves the way it should, with much better throttle response at launch and greatly diminished surging, bogging and lunging.

It doesn't make complete sense to me why this is so. However, as suction devices like an intake tube typically draw air first from the closest source and getting air from the intake horn is a bit "uphill" anyway, the car was probably ingesting a lot of warm, engine compartment air, particularly at a stop. When acceleration is asked for, it will suddenly start to ingest the much cooler air from the intake horn. If the PCM had adjusted the fuel mixture to suit the less-dense warm engine compartment air, a sudden introduction of colder air could make the engine run lean for a few seconds. What is a classic sign of a lean mixture? Surging.

So, this may be wishful thinking. However, it could explain why some cars are great and others aren't. It could also explain why some have improved throttle response by removing the intake box cover - while the intake air is hot at least its temperature doesn't suddenly change.

In any event, if you have these symptoms, undo the strap and take a look. If you have a gap or the strap doesn't seem to seal well try filling the gap with tape. Again, all you're doing is putting the car in the condition Ford intended. Apologies in advance if this is no help to others.
thats very interesting, I have scoured the internet about the multiple problems owners experience with the DCT transmission and never seen this mentioned. Nice work

Maybe Ford needs you as a consultant.
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:16 AM   #40
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I forgot to mention that after plugging up this gap, I also disconnected the battery for a bit so the ecu would go through a re-learn.

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