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Old 07-31-2013, 10:16 PM   #1
Gadabout
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Big Three (3) Upgrade, Duratec (pics)

I didn't put this in "performance", because I haven't figured out if I gained any. And I didn't put it in "car audio", even though that's why its in, because I've yet to start my audio build. So ima leave it here for MK1.5 owners to find :)
story: For those who don't know; So my car has needed much TLC since I found it. It didn't run and the PO was super neglecting this poor girl. Anyway, I've taken the opportunity of having to do many upgrades and repairs to teach my kid brother (16) how to do shhtuff. I learned the hard way, and that sucked.
Today's To-Do was the Big 3 . There are a bunch of different reasons I've heard for why ppl do this "mod/upgrade". Mine; I'm planning a pretty sweet audio build, that'll get on its way in a few months, once I have everything in line.

Parts Used:
**10 ft of NVX 0 Gauge Power/Ground (had about 1ft left over. This stuff kicks so much ass. True spec, and very flexible. Oxygen free and blah blah blah)
**NVX Fuse Holder w/ T-Spec Fuse.
**Battery Terminals, EFX by Scosche, Two 0-ga & Two 4/8 ga. (Solid parts, really nice looking, and great quality to it. Only issue I had, I didn't realize One of the factory power leads was actually Two . So that's kinda f'ed up my plans, because I had to use one of the 0 gauge ins. Which I was gona leave open for my future amp lead. Gna need to get creative when it comes to it.
**5/16 Ring Terminals. (Get Moore than You need!!!!!!)
I didn't use solder, but I Highly recommend soldering the wire to your Ring terminals. I just didn't feel like going to Home Depot, since it was the only thing I Didn't have.

Pics, enjoy. Feel free to ask any questions.
Btw, I left all factory wiring, and I DIDN'T use the factory Block Lead, because that location is a Beeeatch. I used a different bolt, but it Still had to be reached from underneath.















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Last edited by Gadabout; 08-01-2013 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:28 PM   #2
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Nice! I did this on my 04 2.3D and the hardest part was the alternator to battery with inline fuse, other than that, pretty simple.
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:30 PM   #3
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Simple, indeed. Tedious as hell. My Alt to Fuse to Positive was the easy part. Integrating the factory leads was a PITA, for My install at least.
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:33 AM   #4
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So any noticeable differences after doing this? If you werent planning a major sound install, would say this was worth the time and effort?
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:34 AM   #5
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I would say its worth it, I did it just to upgrade the electrical system.
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Old 08-01-2013, 10:29 AM   #6
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Actually, I am planning an audio build. It's only going to total about 1200watts RMS when completed, but being a regular Focus, I didn't feel it would stand very long, once I finally Do the build.
To answer your question; I'm off from work today and yesterday, so I havent gotten any Real time in the car. Right now, whatever I Think I feel can be called Placebo or the typical feel of the car after the battery has been removed and put back. However, even if I don't "gain" anything that has some evidence behind it, I still would say its worth the effort, just based on the fact that the factory electrical did in fact seem pretty Poopy, I won't have to worry about dimming lights once the audio is in, and now things should run more efficiently (in theory of course, and I understand that).
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Old 08-01-2013, 10:58 AM   #7
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I grounded a few points on my car recently and I can definitely see a difference in the way some of the electronics work. The sound system has less static noise at higher volume, the windows roll up/down more smoothly, my electric throttle responds better...

I'm really interested in the type of cabling you used. 0awg seems overkill for the typical user... can you get the same kind of cable in a smaller gauge? It looks really nice and flexible.
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Old 08-01-2013, 11:07 AM   #8
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For the typical user, w/ no major sound upgrades (let's say >600-800watts), it definitely is overkill. NVX does have smaller wiring. I'd highly recommend picking up some, their 4-8 gauge is way less in price too.
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Old 08-01-2013, 11:26 AM   #9
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4 AWG is all you need 0 is way overkill
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Old 08-01-2013, 02:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac.mogul View Post
I grounded a few points on my car recently and I can definitely see a difference in the way some of the electronics work. The sound system has less static noise at higher volume, the windows roll up/down more smoothly, my electric throttle responds better...

I'm really interested in the type of cabling you used. 0awg seems overkill for the typical user... can you get the same kind of cable in a smaller gauge? It looks really nice and flexible.
So probably not really worth it for me then...manual windows, no electric throttle and I generally dont listen to my music in the car too loud with no plans of a stereo build
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