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Old 07-20-2013, 09:07 PM   #11
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That looks great & your torque is up too. I like the spec's of those cams. I'd love to try those cams, but for a DD the stage 1 cranes work great for me.
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:12 PM   #12
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So that setup has kept me happy for a couple of years, but as it always happens, you get the itch to mess with things. I had always been interested in switching out from a single TB intake to ITB's.

Caterham offer this setup on their cars and use the Cosworth Roller Barrels, me being me wanted to try out something different (and be warned, I haven't dyno tuned yet so I could be falling flat on my face)

There is a great outfit in the UK called SBD Motorsports, they sell a lot of kits and upgrades for Duratecs, Zetecs and Hyabusas. After some going back and forth I decided to take my setup up a notch and first upgraded rod bolts (to ARP) and new rod bearings (decided not to do rods and pistons yet - wanted to do stuff that would let me leave the engine in the car first). After that change which lets me raise the red line to 7750 safely I got started on the ITB's:

http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Duratec/Fuel%...Backplates.htm
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:17 PM   #13
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I'll get back to this thread later, poorly photo documented but at a minimum I can fill in with what I am using and how it is going..
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:22 PM   #14
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Nice project you have here. Looks like it would be a lot of fun to race and work on. I'm in for the individual throttle body build. That SBD Motorsports definitely looks like a nice intake setup. What size are the throttle plates on them?
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Old 07-20-2013, 10:13 PM   #15
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awesome! I have to say though.... that first pic:

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Old 07-20-2013, 11:24 PM   #16
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Great looking Caterham!...I'm definitely anxious to see how the ITB's dyno, as I'll eventually be assembling a "poor-man's" setup not too dissimilar from yours as my Locost progresses. With your dyno cutting out before the power started dropping, the increased redline alone should have net you a few more ponies. I would imagine the further increased breathing from the ITB's could definitely show a noticeable gain on top of that. How is idle and around town (<3000rpm) driveability with those cams? It will also be interesting to hear how the ITB's end up affecting this as well.

That is a pretty nice looking intake manifold it came with, but I'm slightly surprised they didn't use the Cosworth Focus manifold, since it all points the same direction anyways. I didn't think Caterham was shy when it came to using Cosworth labeled parts, but I guess I never really paid too close of attention either. Maybe it would have stuck out too far for the nose taper? Either way, it's also interesting to see that Caterham kept the stock Duratec plastic valve cover, complete with the hood clearance killing high-rise 710 cap.
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:54 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driven5 View Post
Great looking Caterham!...I'm definitely anxious to see how the ITB's dyno, as I'll eventually be assembling a "poor-man's" setup not too dissimilar from yours as my Locost progresses. With your dyno cutting out before the power started dropping, the increased redline alone should have net you a few more ponies. I would imagine the further increased breathing from the ITB's could definitely show a noticeable gain on top of that. How is idle and around town (<3000rpm) driveability with those cams? It will also be interesting to hear how the ITB's end up affecting this as well.

That is a pretty nice looking intake manifold it came with, but I'm slightly surprised they didn't use the Cosworth Focus manifold, since it all points the same direction anyways. I didn't think Caterham was shy when it came to using Cosworth labeled parts, but I guess I never really paid too close of attention either. Maybe it would have stuck out too far for the nose taper? Either way, it's also interesting to see that Caterham kept the stock Duratec plastic valve cover, complete with the hood clearance killing high-rise 710 cap.
Justin,

the cams are fine, idle a little high for a smooth idle, about 1500 rpm, I forgot to mention earlier that I did have to pocket the pistons to give a little more clearance for the valves and of course those cams required the appropriate new springs and retainers.

The ITB setup is running (fired up last night) and maybe not surprisingly once we synchronized the butterflys it idles better with them than with the single throttle body setup, and it will idle at 1200 rpm easily, maybe I'll go a little lower still.

With the 2.0L block there is no issue with clearance to the hood, even with the ugly oil filler cap. They do provide a carbon cover to go over the coils that tidies things up a bit though. You may be right on the Cosworth vs their own intake manifolds, it is likely to do with the clearance to the hood at the front on the narrower S3 Caterhams.

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Old 07-21-2013, 11:46 PM   #18
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Okay, dyno hopefully lined up for Tuesday.

Basically, to switch to the SBD Tapered Throttle bodies this is what was needed:

1) Plug the injector inlets on the head (SBD provides machined plugs, they hammer in and use a special loctite glue, heating the head with a torch for a bit on each hole helps
2) Slight replumb on my fuel setup, may not be the same for a Focus, but I had a 4.5 bar pump with no return line, ideal for the SBD setup is 3 bar and a return line. Rigging the return was not that difficult in the Caterham as the tank had an inlet that was just hooked to the filler neck. I fitted am AN6 bulkhead connector to the pump unit and connected it to the pump, then plugged the original outlet from the pump assembly. Used Aeroquip Startlite kevlon braided fuel lines, nice stuff. SBD provided fuel rail and injectors that go in to the throttle bodies tapered runners also the 3 bar regulator
3) Installed ambient air temp and baro sensors in place of MAP
4) Setup throttle cable

Pic of modified fuel pump (I think it is from a Zetec Fiesta or Focus from the UK
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:53 PM   #19
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SBD also provided base tune, you have to set the TPS position so that the sensor voltage reads a determined value at fully closed then wind in the idle control to a certain amount. From there on, you should be able to fire it up and it run.

Mine did, though very rich (I have an Innovate LC1 AFR gauge installed), quick and easy to adjust the fuel map with the Easimap software that comes with the ECU and then start the process of balancing the throttle bodies with a synchometer, also pretty easy. Idles right now at 1200 rpm but could drop.

Next tasks, dyno for real tune and cut a hole in the hood (bonnet) for better breathing for the intake.
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:56 PM   #20
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Next up I'll try and post a vid link of the first run (really), it was easier to set up than I anticipated
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