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Old 07-16-2013, 03:45 PM   #21
kyle9563
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I did replace the fuel filter this morning and the car does seem to idle smoother and I might get new wires anyway because they aren't to expensive.
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:56 PM   #22
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When you say "using the correct tools" do you mean the Cam allignment tool and the Pin that you install? You could be off if you only used the cam allignment tool, When ever I did Zetec timing belts I always set TDC with a wooden dowel in cyl#1 and centered it on the "Dead spot" (Where you slightly rotate the crank back and forth and no piston movement is observed) I never had any problems and I've done 4 myself.

If all else fails you can check it by removing all of your spark plugs and turning the crank to TDC, check that the cam allignment tool fits in to the slots on the end of the camshafts. If it doesn't reset your timing, it almost sounds like your 180 out... You usually get intake backfires and a bad misfire but it depends on how far you are out.


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Old 07-16-2013, 04:03 PM   #23
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Right tools as in the can allignment bar and metal pin. We even put a screw driver in the first cylinder to see tdc as well just to be safe and the cams lined up so the timing shouldn't be an issue.
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:29 PM   #24
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It is impossible to be true 180 out on these, the crank and cam sensors re-identify TDC and which TDC position on every crank up of motor. PCM zeroes in on the cam sensor knorb or bump and recalculates for it. Meaning, cams dead straight down are same as dead straight up. Of course, you can screw up by partial amounts in any one of the other degrees between the two.
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Old 07-17-2013, 12:26 PM   #25
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So it's not the plug wires because I put a brand new set on and it's exactly the same. Could it maybe be the coil?
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:03 PM   #26
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Have you checked for vacuum leaks? If you were raising and lowering the engine to get access to things (serpentine idler pulley usually) its possible a vacuum line got disconnected, pinched, or broken in the process.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:05 PM   #27
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I looked around as best as I could and couldn't see any disconnected hoses but a lot of them are hard to see as they are behind the engine
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:27 PM   #28
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So I finally replaced the ignition coil and that's not it either? I'm just completely stumped. I guess I'll have to take it in and see what's what.
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:13 PM   #29
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Who says a power balance test doesn't work? Pulling each plug wire out individually while the car is running is a totally viable way of telling if a cylinder is contributing. If you pull a wire off and the engine runs way rougher than before, you can bet that wire is working and the ignition is contributing like it should. If it doesn't change the way the engine runs when you pull if off, chase that cylinder/plug/wire cause thats your problem.

I can't believe no one has suggested ensuring your timing marks are on. When you put the new belt on did you rotate the engine over (two revolutions of the crank) by hand and make sure that all the marks line up again afterwards? This is the very first step that should have been taken before condemning all sorts of other ignition parts without proper cause.
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Old 07-26-2013, 12:12 AM   #30
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Ya, when we put the belt back on we made sure to rotate the engine atleast 2 times and everything still lined up just fine.
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