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Old 07-15-2013, 11:48 AM   #11
amc49
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X2,

'Think it out, if car didn't do it before, then you caused it, gotta get your head around that.'

Still applies. Car either did it before or didn't and your path seems pretty clear.

If you view testing wires as too difficult and new part is easier than that, then by all means go there.

You still have not confirmed whether you did the belt for the problem, or the problem now mentioned happened AFTER the belt done. You could be tilting your responses toward totally incorrect. Being vague on internet car repair only hurts you, not us. Now you're wanting to go to fuel lines or injector, with no solid evidence at all. Dangerous unless you are made of money.
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:38 PM   #12
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Sorry for the lack of info but the problem arose after the belt change. I only said it may be in the fuel system because i was just trying to brain storm and see if that sounded like it might be a problem, also i said fuel because a while back I was running with the fuel light on for probably to long and my fuel filter got clogged up and ran somewhat similar to how it is now but not exactly the same. For the vom test what setting should the meter be on? I think its ohms but im not sure and also what numbers should i be looking for?
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Old 07-15-2013, 02:33 PM   #13
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Ohms, low as possible. No more than 5000 ohms per foot of wire length is a good number to adhere to. You'll have some resistance since it's carbon string conductor but going over that number means the carbon has fallen apart inside cable.
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:57 PM   #14
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Alright thanks for the info. I'll try and test the wires tonight after work and I'll post the results.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:25 PM   #15
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Did you ever test the wires for resistance like everyone has said? If so what numbers did you come up with?
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:19 PM   #16
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Well if I read the meter right (it's analogue and kinda old) cylinders 3 and 4 which are on the drivers side we about .25-.3 ohms while cylinders 1 and 2 were around 1.5 ohms. #1 was slightly higher than #2 tho but maybe that's just a difference in wire length. Also today while driving home from work I was turning left doing about 10mph in 2nd gear slowly accelerating and I heard a loud pop and my engine died. I tried to restart the engine and it took a little longer than usual to start and after driving for a few more seconds there was another pop like the first one but had no effect on rpm and I could feel any jolt or bump from it or the first. Could the pops be backfires? Also I don't remember if I've said this already but the whole problem occurs only when I'm accelerating or when I depress the gas pedal in or out of gear (like a rev). But say I'm driving at 45 mph in 5th the problem seams to go away. Also seams to go away when accelerating hard at over 3500 rpm. One ladt thing, im kind of rambling now but I'm trying to get as many details in as I can. So when the car has been sitting for awhile say a few hours the first time going up through the gears is just about uneventful but as soon as I have been driving fir more than about 30 seconds and try and accelerate again the car starts jolting and shutting like the rest if the time.
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:04 AM   #17
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Another question. What happens when a car runs to lean or to rich and what could be the cause of something like that?
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:07 PM   #18
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Pull plugs, if black, fouling misfire to backfire.

You haven't read meter right. Don't toss it, analog VOMs can do things digital can't, like test crank and cam sensors or other types of proximity sensors.
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:35 PM   #19
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We checked the plugs before and they all looked ok, not black and no cracks . How do I test those other proximity sensors, and if they were bad wouldnt they throw a code?
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:43 PM   #20
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Was just saying tool useful for other things. Crank and cam sensors most likely OK, car will not start without them.
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