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Old 07-12-2013, 02:42 PM   #1
fawzie13R
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heads and porting and polishing

ok so I have a 2009 SEL sedan, I like to go fast but my wife doesn't want me spending a bunch of money on the car all at once. I was wondering what all I would gain if I swapped a 2.3L duratec head for my stock 2.0l duratec head? and also how hard is it to port and polish a head? one of my old friends did it with a dremel on his heads to his old 5.0 Foxbody. I have a dremel and im pretty good working with it. I just need some guidance on how to do it on the 2.0/2.3 duratecs.


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Old 07-14-2013, 03:07 PM   #2
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Before you get into that much work you need
Header
TB
2.5 or 3 inch Exh
intake
Custom Tune
Wide band o2

Cams and springs ready to go in the 2.3 head , 2.3 intake manifold , there is no need to do a P&P for what your doing

Tom
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:16 AM   #3
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yeah i know but the wife has me on a really tight wallet. my old 08 couple had CAI, tune, STS, 2.5" fswerks race exhaust and it ran like a striped ape i ran with a supercharged colbalt and stayed right at his door. so i cant use the 2.0 stock intake manifold on a 2.3 head? and since my car is drive by wire is the 2.3 throttle body also drive by wire? i don't know much about the 2.3 i just know a lot of people on here swapped their 2.0 head for the 2.3. eventually my foci will have all that you mentioned but i might keep the headaches to a minimum and just keep it stock till i can save the dough up
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:44 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fawzie13R View Post
and since my car is drive by wire is the 2.3 throttle body also drive by wire?
There wasn't a 2.3l when they switched to DBW, but if there was, it would be. But that really doesn't matter since the TB is independant of the engine, per sae. The bigger thing is your car is wired for a DBW TB, and doesn't have the cable to operate a different TB, so you'll have to stick with the DBW throttle.

As for the cost-to-benefit of the head swap, I have not seen anyone do any before/after analysis of how much of a gain it is on a mostly stock 2.0l engine. Regarding P&P, head casting is much better from the factory than it used to be, so if you never done it before, there is a higher chance it will get worse than better.
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:22 PM   #5
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Will get worse anyway, the head is the LAST thing you do to bring all parts together at the same table. Simply doing head alone with nothing to go with it is quite frankly senseless, and shows a lack of understanding. Nothing personal of course there. I used to grind on plenty of heads in my day. It is actually very easy to butcher modern stuff thinking you know what you are doing. Back in the old days you simply cut away, today's 4 valve stuff requires more finesse. The heads don't inertia charge anything like old single intake stuff, so big holes are out. Easy to mess up the 4V balance, both intakes or exhausts need to be done very close or one then outflows the other in pair to screw up entry into or out of the chamber. Heads from factory nowadays are MUCH better, you hardly have anything to do heavy work on like say short turn radius, it's already almost perfect. Just a bit of cutter edge blending and that's it. Detail work mainly.
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:21 AM   #6
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heads

Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Will get worse anyway, the head is the LAST thing you do to bring all parts together at the same table. Simply doing head alone with nothing to go with it is quite frankly senseless, and shows a lack of understanding. Nothing personal of course there. I used to grind on plenty of heads in my day. It is actually very easy to butcher modern stuff thinking you know what you are doing. Back in the old days you simply cut away, today's 4 valve stuff requires more finesse. The heads don't inertia charge anything like old single intake stuff, so big holes are out. Easy to mess up the 4V balance, both intakes or exhausts need to be done very close or one then outflows the other in pair to screw up entry into or out of the chamber. Heads from factory nowadays are MUCH better, you hardly have anything to do heavy work on like say short turn radius, it's already almost perfect. Just a bit of cutter edge blending and that's it. Detail work mainly.
Yeah ive never ported and polished a motor before. but yeah ive decided not to touch the head until I get the money to upgrade the cam, cam gears, valve springs. but Ive never built and engine but ive done my far share of engine swaps. but I hear all you all on the subject and thanks so much for the advice.
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Old 07-19-2013, 11:42 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fawzie13R View Post
Yeah ive never ported and polished a motor before. but yeah ive decided not to touch the head until I get the money to upgrade the cam, cam gears, valve springs. but Ive never built and engine but ive done my far share of engine swaps. but I hear all you all on the subject and thanks so much for the advice.
How 'bout a 23 motor?
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:26 PM   #8
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idk a 2.3l motor would prolly be nice. I was wanting to slowly build a 2.0. I was gonna check the local salvage yards to see how much a 2.0 block would cost me and then go from there. my end state would be to build a motor that is NA but with forged internals and everything beefed up so if I could afford it down the road a turbocharger kit and possible N20. but that's my hopes and dreams lol all will be dictated by funding and the wife lol.
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fawzie13R View Post
idk a 2.3l motor would prolly be nice. I was wanting to slowly build a 2.0. I was gonna check the local salvage yards to see how much a 2.0 block would cost me and then go from there. my end state would be to build a motor that is NA but with forged internals and everything beefed up so if I could afford it down the road a turbocharger kit and possible N20. but that's my hopes and dreams lol all will be dictated by funding and the wife lol.
A 23 would cost about the same as a 20 to build & you'll never have the grunt of a 23= motor for motor. Plus there is more pistons & rod choices w/ a 23.
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