[Tutorial] Subwoofer Setup with Stock Radio, no sony - Focus Fanatics
Ford Focus Forum
HomeContact UsAbout UsGalleryDiscussion ForumsMarketplace



Go Back   Focus Fanatics > Ford Focus Tech Discussions > Car Audio, SYNC, MyFord Touch & Electronics

Car Audio, SYNC, MyFord Touch & Electronics The Forum for the Ford Focus audiophiles. The place to chat about automobile sound systems, security systems, or show off your I.C.E.!
Sponsored By: GT Sound Control


Search This Forum | Image Search | Advanced Search    
FocusFest Ford Focus Tire & Wheels FocusFanatics Merchandise

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-08-2013, 07:42 AM   #1
lefos
Focus Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Fan#: 116523
Location: Middleboro, MA
What I Drive: 2013 Ingot Silver SE

Posts: 7
FF Reputation: 1 lefos Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Lightbulb [Tutorial] Subwoofer Setup with Stock Radio, no sony

Hello Focus Fanatics. Today I am going to write and develop a "what I did" to install subwoofers into my stock 2013 Ford Focus SE.

I do not have any upgrade packages other than the SE upgrade. So no leather, no sony audio, just a base focus that needed more bass.

Question: How many watts in enough.
Answer : 12" 350 watt subwoofer is more than enough to bump a focus. You can always go bigger and deafen yourself, but I have 2 10" 300 watt JL audio subwoofers and I had to turn the bass boost off and gain down because they were too loud for my taste.

The tutorial:
(Pictures coming soon)

First I want to mention this was not a terribly difficult job. It could be done in an afternoon on a Saturday/Sunday and very few tools were required.

Materials:
  • Subwoofers in box & Amplifier (At sonic, you can get a sub/amp/box) < $200
  • Line Out Converter (example)~ $15
  • Amp Wiring Kit (I used this) ~ $30
  • Utility Knife / Wire Stripper ~ $3, but you should have one
  • Soldering Iron(Optional but recommended, just to touch four wires)

Step 1 - Getting power to the trunk

First, like working on anything in a car, disconnect the negative on the battery so you don't shock yourself.

To connect power you will need about 16' of 8AWG or thicker wire. You can probably skate by with 15' but the you should always go longer.
(use this chart to determine wire thickness)

To attach this to the battery is the easiest step, all you need to do is remove the bolt that holds the battery cable in place, attach an ring to the end of the battery cable with the fuse on it and slide it under the nut and tighten the battery back up. Right near the battery should be where your fuse is. For my amplifier I needed a 60A fuse this was determined from reading the manual that came with it. Worst case just look at your amplifier and see what it is fused for.


Next we will get it through the firewall, to do this we will pull back some of the carpet from behind the brake pedal, and some of the foam to reveal a black, kind of square, piece of plastic. Take this out(it just pops out with a flathead, no screws) and drill a hole in it the size of your power wire.

What I did here was I fished a separate cable through the whole from inside the car to the engine compartment. Then from the engine compartment I could grab the wire, tape my power wire to it and get back inside and pull it through. I did this because the hole where you just removed that plastic piece is kind of hard to find from the engine compartment, also hard to reach.



Next to make it easier I removed the rubber that went around the door sill(well at least enough so I could run the wire under the rubber, you just pull it out there is no magic here). Fish the power wire behind the panels closest to the door, then down along the doorsill. Simply lay the wire along the doorsill until you get to the back of the car. If it is easier pull out the trim piece behind the seatbelt to get it from the front door to the rear door. Then keep going under the rubber.

Once you get to the rear, fold the seat down and fish the wire behind those trim panels and in to the trunk
(PICTURE TO GO HERE)

You now have power to the trunk!

To do the ground, simply get another piece of 8AWG wire(usually comes with the kit) and what I did was I put a ring terminal on it, placed it on the top of the trunk on a bolt, and added another nut so that the ring was squished.

Alternatively look for a bolt you can remove and just make sure you scuff up the surface that the ground will be touching with sand paper so it gets a good connection.
(PICTURE TO GO HERE OF GROUND)


Step 2 - The Remote Turn on Wire

What I did for this, since the wire that comes with a wiring kit is so small. Is I took off the panel in the trunk to reveal a fuse panel. Now because I have a stock SE, no moonroof, no power/heated seats. All of the fuses in here aren't actually connected to anything.

So I just took out the 5 AMP moonroof fuse I believe in spot 34, and I wrapped the remote wire around one side of the fuse(the side that will be closer to the rear of the car, this is important as there is only one metal contact in the fuse box since I don't actually have a moonroof).

Then I re-inserted the fuse. This fuse has power so long as the radio and other things have power(key on, or key off after the car was running until you open the door).



Step 3 - Getting Signal to the Amp

This is where things get tricky and annoying. What we are going to do is tap in to the wiring harness that leaves the head unit, add our Line Out Converter or LOC and then run RCA cables down the passenger side of the car in the same way we ran the power cable.

To do this, go over to the front passenger seat, and remove the trim panel that is essentially the left kick panel. It is often called the passenger side console panel. This has one tree style holder under the obvious rectangular panel, then two metal clips close to the shifter.
(PICTURE TO GO HERE OF THIS PANEL)

Once you have removed this you will see a bundle of wires. Find these two sets of wires that in my case were twisted:

Left Rear Speaker +: Brown/Green
Left Rear Speaker -: Brown/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker +: Brown/White
Right Rear Speaker -: Brown/Blue

Now to Splice the LOC, here is how I did it:
What you want to do is strip and remove some of the casing, without cutting the wire. Then take a pick or something small, and poke a hole in the middle of the stranded wire you just exposed. Take your LOC and twist the wire that corresponds with my chart above and put it through the hole you just made, then wrap that LOC wire around the exposed wire (If you do it this way, you should have a hard time accidentally pulling the wire out of the splice). Cover with electrical tape and you have now spliced your LOC. Do this for the four signal wires above.

What I did next, people may opt not to do. I added a bit of solder on to each connection just to solidify and kind of guarantee that it won't come out. Just be careful when you do this, not to melt other wires.

If you need to ground your LOC, what I did for mine was I twisted the two ground wires together added a ring terminal and found a nearby bolt, slid it under it and called it good. Just tuck the LOC beside the harness and run the RCA cables.

Since the LOC is in the middle of the car, I ran the RCA cables under the passenger side carpet to get to the doorsill then I ran them down the rubbers just like the power wire. Then when I got to the back, just like the power wire, I ran it behind the trim panels in to the trunk.



Now you have Power, Ground, Remote Turn On, Left Channel, Right Channel. Plug in your amp, add the fuse to the power wire, reconnect the ground cable and you are good to go.
(FINAL PICTURE TO GO HERE)

One more note. Since my box was odd shaped I had to strap it in so it didn't fall over or slide around. There are plenty of spots to attach rope to in the trunk if you want to do the same.



If anyone has any questions feel free to post them. I would love to help out or if anyone has any ideas for me I would love to hear them =)


Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2013-07-09 16.23.27.jpg
Views:	1865
Size:	203.2 KB
ID:	18633  

Click image for larger version

Name:	2013-07-09 16.24.09.jpg
Views:	2026
Size:	215.4 KB
ID:	18634  

Click image for larger version

Name:	2013-07-10 06.50.12.jpg
Views:	1946
Size:	207.4 KB
ID:	18635  


Last edited by lefos; 07-24-2013 at 07:26 AM.
lefos is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-12-2013, 01:24 PM   #2
Meathead
Focus Enthusiast
 
Meathead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Fan#: 97158
Location: Lynn, MA
What I Drive: 2012 SE 5 speed w/ Sport Package

Posts: 203
FF Reputation: 1 Meathead Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
So the 5 amp fuse just holds the wire in, right? Cause I am sure the 5 amp fuse would blow if it were connected to the line.
__________________
2012 Oxford White SE 5-speed w/ Sport & Winter Package || Steeda STS | FSWerks Intake | Custom S.S. Catback Exhaust | Aluminum Pedals | Clear Bra Hood Wrap | 35% Tint | Tinted Tails | White Badges
Meathead is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2013, 07:52 AM   #3
lefos
Focus Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Fan#: 116523
Location: Middleboro, MA
What I Drive: 2013 Ingot Silver SE

Posts: 7
FF Reputation: 1 lefos Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
I am confused @Meathead. There is 0A worth of current flowing through that fuse at all times. If you have a moonroof, it would only have current while the moonroof was sliding. And most amplifiers are rated to only need like 20mA worth of current draw to activate the remote wire. Main amplifier power comes straight from the battery.
lefos is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2013, 08:21 AM   #4
Meathead
Focus Enthusiast
 
Meathead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Fan#: 97158
Location: Lynn, MA
What I Drive: 2012 SE 5 speed w/ Sport Package

Posts: 203
FF Reputation: 1 Meathead Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by lefos View Post
I am confused @Meathead. There is 0A worth of current flowing through that fuse at all times. If you have a moonroof, it would only have current while the moonroof was sliding. And most amplifiers are rated to only need like 20mA worth of current draw to activate the remote wire. Main amplifier power comes straight from the battery.
What I mean is, what is the amp rating in the amp? I am assuming it is more than 5A. So if the fuse in the panel is less than the fuse in the amp, then I would think it would pose a problem. my experience is that the fuses in amps are in the 30A range, if I recall. That's why I am assuming the 5A fuse in the pansl is just basically holding the wire in place, and not acting as a fuse.
__________________
2012 Oxford White SE 5-speed w/ Sport & Winter Package || Steeda STS | FSWerks Intake | Custom S.S. Catback Exhaust | Aluminum Pedals | Clear Bra Hood Wrap | 35% Tint | Tinted Tails | White Badges
Meathead is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2013, 08:35 AM   #5
lefos
Focus Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Fan#: 116523
Location: Middleboro, MA
What I Drive: 2013 Ingot Silver SE

Posts: 7
FF Reputation: 1 lefos Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Meathead -

The power comes from the battery. I am really confused why you think it is coming from the fuse panel.

I have the remote turn on wire plugged in to the fuse panel(before the 5A fuse anyways) Which just turns the amp on/off when it sees 12V. That wire pulls near 0A, just enough to check the voltage.
lefos is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2013, 08:57 AM   #6
Meathead
Focus Enthusiast
 
Meathead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Fan#: 97158
Location: Lynn, MA
What I Drive: 2012 SE 5 speed w/ Sport Package

Posts: 203
FF Reputation: 1 Meathead Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by lefos View Post
Meathead -

The power comes from the battery. I am really confused why you think it is coming from the fuse panel.

I have the remote turn on wire plugged in to the fuse panel(before the 5A fuse anyways) Which just turns the amp on/off when it sees 12V. That wire pulls near 0A, just enough to check the voltage.
Never mind, I totally overlooked the fact that the power comes from the battery. Can we rewind about 4 posts and pretend this never happened? LOL
__________________
2012 Oxford White SE 5-speed w/ Sport & Winter Package || Steeda STS | FSWerks Intake | Custom S.S. Catback Exhaust | Aluminum Pedals | Clear Bra Hood Wrap | 35% Tint | Tinted Tails | White Badges
Meathead is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2013, 08:59 AM   #7
lefos
Focus Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Fan#: 116523
Location: Middleboro, MA
What I Drive: 2013 Ingot Silver SE

Posts: 7
FF Reputation: 1 lefos Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Absolutely =) Sorry if it were a bit confusing. It would be nice to pull power right from that panel. I believe that fuse panel in a '13 gets 25A when it is stock, so if you have a small amp you can use it, but I would rather just go to the battery
lefos is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 09:23 PM   #8
SQDEMO
Focus Rookie
 
SQDEMO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Fan#: 105074
Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
What I Drive: 2012 White Sport Hatch

Posts: 7
FF Reputation: 1 SQDEMO Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
There is no mention of a fuse block at the battery end of the main power cable.

I really hope you installed this fuse, as it is this fuse that protects your car from fire, in the unlucky event the main power cable shorts to ground
The normal recommendation is within 15" of the battery

Mark
SQDEMO is online now  
    Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 07:25 AM   #9
lefos
Focus Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Fan#: 116523
Location: Middleboro, MA
What I Drive: 2013 Ingot Silver SE

Posts: 7
FF Reputation: 1 lefos Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
I will update the tutorial, in my picture of the battery connection you can see it a little bit on the left, but absolutely a fuse. It comes standard with any amp wiring kit nowadays
lefos is offline  
    Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2013, 09:29 PM   #10
Lite12
Focus Enthusiast
 
Lite12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Fan#: 118069
Location: Jeff, IN
What I Drive: 2013 Race Red Focus SE 5dr

Posts: 102
FF Reputation: 1 Lite12 Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
If I don't have a sony amp(and I don't), is the rear box still wired?
I have a powered sub that I would love to just tap the hatch fuse box for power, the manual states a 25A fuse, plenty for me.
Lite12 is online now  
    Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks & Social Networks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:43 PM.


Copyright 2002-2014 FocusFanatics.com. All Rights Reserved : Terms of Use : Privacy Policy : Advertise Information : Site Map

Focus Fanatics Ford Focus Forum offers many fun ways for you to engage with other Ford Focus Owners from across the world. Whether it be about the aftermarket performance modifications, technical how-to's, European tuned suspension or awesome fuel economy similar to the Acura TLX or Fiesta ST. You can find all Ford Focus and Focus ST related information here. Join our Ford Focus discussion forums and chat with local Focus enthusiasts in your area.