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Old 07-18-2013, 02:27 PM   #21
Desperate_Ashleigh
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I looked into the PATS and that doesn't seem likely because the light on the dash does exactly what it is supposed to be doing.
I have replaced the starter twice because the first one that was in there was making a grinding noise before I started taking apart the car in the first place, the second one the solenoid was moving around it shouldn't be doing that so I took it back. It was a re-manufactured part so they are known for being bad.
I am currently looking into the wiring. I was just asking for suggestions. I don't know what you want me to say. I can't afford to take it to a shop so I need some help. At this point all you are doing is attacking me about things that I can't do anything about.
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:00 PM   #22
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The weirdest part about it is that when the car is off I get voltage at the starter but the moment you try to start the car the voltage disappears.
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:11 PM   #23
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Using a multi-meter, test the wire for continuity from the battery to the starter. The needs to be disconnect on both sides.
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:14 PM   #24
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Also, are you 100% positive that the starter relay is good?
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:56 PM   #25
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I have tested the continuity and it was good but thank you for the suggestion. Yes I just went and got a new one to make sure that wasn't it and it isn't.
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:44 PM   #26
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I want to help the OP with a few things to try… but first a quick story.

I am not a car mechanic, but was a helicopter mechanic/electrician for several years. One of the strangest lessons I learned was testing system wiring and components and I was positive that all was good, and yet the system would not function. In these cases, the culprit was a faulty connection. A faulty connection can test normal with a multimeter (ohms) and yet not fail until the system is turned on; the faulty connection fails only during load (amps/current). When this happens, the faulty connection turns into an OPEN circuit. When this happens, a multimeter testing voltage would toggle from 12Vdc to 0Vdc. I have seen this happen in low and high current circuits. Making it even more difficult to find, these faulty connections were often visually undetectable.

Please inspect any/all/some of the electrical terminals in this starter system. Remove and clean these connections. You can clean some of them with Contact Cleaner or in some cases scrape them with a file or anything sharp.

Find the cables that Ground the engine block to the car frame -> disconnect/clean/reconnect these cables. Do the same thing with any (ugly or not) Ground cables you find; to include the big ( - ) negative cable for the car battery.

Edit: I am only guessing that the Starter uses the engine block grounding straps/cables to complete the electrical circuit during Start. Can someone please confirm this?

Good luck.
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Old 07-19-2013, 12:34 AM   #27
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Thank you very much for the suggestion. I will be doing that tomorrow in the daylight to hopefully figure this nonsense out!
I understand that at this point most people should take their car to a shop but honestly I only have 30$ to my name and still have to get my monthly medications with that....
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:18 PM   #28
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Understood that before. You DO have control of your responses back here, no attacking of you at all, simply pointing out where things go with incomplete report back like you give. You can't be helped by virtue of YOUR response, YOU are the impediment to moving forward. Learn from it or continue thinking you're being attacked, which is absolutely incorrect.

FYI, the rebuilt starter solenoid being loose just means it was not tightened, 30 seconds would've fixed that, probably nothing wrong with part at all. The solenoid can even come loose later while using starter..............I routinely retighten many parts on rebuilds.

Marde is absolutely correct. Any man working on helicopter in my view is plenty proficient to be working on a lowly car. Battery ground goes right to bellhousing bolt with starter on backside of it. Or maybe to starter lug itself. Been awhile.

The test for continuity can be worthless. If 3/4 of the cable were broken in half you'd still have perfect continuity and car will not start till the end of all time. A check for resistance better and not the dead giveaway either but more helpful.

Has anyone spent five minutes doing most basic thing or clean battery terminals? Are they TIGHT, they often spin loose from the garbage connector used. Grab and twist by hand. Is the positive cable melted like 4-6 inches off the battery terminal? A common problem on these. Melted cable doesn't pass enough current to turn starter. New cable time, these were too small to begin with in my view.

See what I mean about a book being written? Haven't even started yet.

And, STILL no report back of exact motor in car. ALL OF THIS TIME AND MONEY MAY BE WASTED. If says 'zetec' or '16' valve on motor top then you can go on. If says 'split port' anywhere then you may well have a junk motor, the starter will NEVER turn it and you are burning them up one by one trying to. Your VIN at windshield corner will say '3' or 'P' in the eight digit position. 3 is the good motor and P is the bad one. Has anyone gotten under the car to see if the engine can even be turned at all? At this point if you don't report back you may REALLY be screwing up. I watched a next door neighbor try this for a month on late Escort 1.9 SOHC, and plenty of money wasted there, he couldn't afford it either. Tried to tell him early but he ignored me. Car later sold for scrap. He burned out like 4 starters getting to that conclusion.
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Old 07-19-2013, 02:22 PM   #29
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I went surfing and found this picture at:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/36638561/Ford-Focus-2002

The answer to my question is confirmed by amc49 and is shown in the picture. Look at the bottom and see the block called STARTER MOTOR; and in the very bottom is a ground symbol (three dashes on top of one another).

Find the ground cable that amc40 is talking about (Quote "Battery ground goes right to bellhousing bolt with starter on backside of it. Or maybe to starter lug itself") and disconnect/inspect/clean/reconnect both ends.

Also make note of picture at left bottom; battery negative terminal has cables connecting to "G8 (ON CYLINDER HEAD)" & "G1 (LEFT SIDE OF ENG COMPT)".
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Old 07-19-2013, 02:53 PM   #30
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Yes we have cleaned the battery terminals and made sure that they are super tight. We did that before even replacing the battery.
I'm sorry that I forgot to mention that it is a 2.0L Split Port which I believe is the SOHC.
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