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Old 06-30-2013, 01:32 PM   #11
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does the car run better in the cool of the morning?
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:37 PM   #12
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long story short, OP has another problem.
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Old 07-01-2013, 03:34 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebontoft View Post
long story short, OP has another problem.
What's my other problem?
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:34 AM   #14
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My point about aluminum was to illustrate that if you use it on intake tube, it is going to absorb the temp of the 230 degree plus air under the hood. Yes, aluminum gives off heat as fast as it takes it on, it will give the outside heat to your intake air which is cooler if CAI. The idea works well on intercoolers also because either ambient air or liquid cooled. The turbo mix can be hotter than that by a good chunk. You flat need insulation or shielding if you want true CAI, it's stupid to pull air from a cold location and then plumb it through a hot area only to reheat it with a metal tube. The idea may work during cool days or winter but in summer, the intake length heating undoes all your cooling efforts.

The main reason major parts are now showing up in aluminum is because they CAN now. Manufacturers have long known that aluminum makes for much less tooling costs, the cutting tools to make parts last much longer. However, the casting techniques all through the '60s and 70s had problems with porosity and density control, the biggest problem with repeat part reliability. Now they seem to have the problem in check. They would've gone to aluminum long ago if they thought it cost effective, heat soak was low on the list of reasons why. Until PCM and O2 sensors showed up they used iron on heads specifically to keep the heat in, as well as exhaust manifolds, it holds emissions way down.

Calling something a 'short ram' is pretty silly too, there's no ramming of anything going on in there. Many of the so-called high perf parts sold now do very little at all for power.
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:45 AM   #15
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^^^ True. My K&N typhoon is almost too hot to touch after turning the engine off. Kind of a contradiction.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:20 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
...You flat need insulation or shielding if you want true CAI, it's stupid to pull air from a cold location and then plumb it through a hot area only to reheat it. ...
True on both points.

Also if you have a hot air filter located in the engine compartment it will be even more efficient at reheating the air, which is why we end up with a "lifetime" air filter in the fender.

So for an after market CAI I would want the filter located in the fender and the plumbing to be insulated.

Hmmm, filter in the fender? A pain to change! Hmmm, maybe some sort of filter good for 100k miles?

But how to tell if the filter is clogged? Maybe some sort of remote mounted recording vacuum gauge?

Hmm, bet this will be expense! Yes but often performance requires more money.

I wonder if anyone makes such a system?

To be serious when you think about it you end up with a design similar to Ford's. Did Ford do a good job executing that design? I guess that's a matter of opinion. Would the stock CAI benefit from insulating the plumbing? Would such insulation screw up stock MAF settings?

Just some random thoughts.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:41 AM   #17
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Troublemaker..........LOL.
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:18 PM   #18
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When I drive the car after the sun goes down, or when it is cooler it seems to drive fine, with no issue. However today while I was driving, the temperate is averaging around 95-100* in certain areas with some micro-climates being slightly less, it was definitely having issues. There is not a lot of wind to push the hot air around so it just sits there and gets hotter. The humidity was moderate today, probably around 30-40%.

The car certainly did not like driving in this heat, but once I got into the micro-climate near my house and the temps were in the high 70's to low 80's with a nice cool river breeze the car felt much better.

It's difficult to say where the heat is going to be around here, there are so many micro-climates in the area I live in. Where I live at, it is always warmer than it is on the road that connects my mountain to the river road to the highway. The river road tends to be the coolest portion of my drives. The closest town, Longview, is always hotter than where I live; and the next big city to me, Vancouver, is always hotter than my place and Longview. The highway takes me through several micro-climates on my way to Vancouver. I live in WA State, BTW.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:10 PM   #19
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Next tank of gas, put in 91(93) instead of the normal 87 and see if its different during the heat of the day.

Basically its a test to see if maybe you're getting pre-detonation, knock, whatever you want to call it.

The higher octane is more resistant to knocking/detonation and maybe the lagging is from the ECU pulling timing cause its hot as a mofo.

(AZ was 117 this weekend ;) )
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Old 07-03-2013, 03:33 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdeath2000 View Post
Next tank of gas, put in 91(93) instead of the normal 87 and see if its different during the heat of the day.

Basically its a test to see if maybe you're getting pre-detonation, knock, whatever you want to call it.

The higher octane is more resistant to knocking/detonation and maybe the lagging is from the ECU pulling timing cause its hot as a mofo.

(AZ was 117 this weekend ;) )
I put a half tank of Cheveron Supreme w/ Techron 92 octane, I believe. The car ran marginally better but still had some stumbling.
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