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Old 06-26-2013, 05:51 PM   #1
Ultimatestarlet
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Unhappy ST 170 Pats Problem

Can anyone shed some light on this. ST170 04 model. Will not crank, no relay sounds. When key is out digital mileage flashes 88888 constantly. When key is turned on mileage indicator shows only dashes -----. I have no pats led on at anytime whatsoever. Dash, PCM and key were sent for checking and coding together. I'm at a loss as is the dealer. Thanks.


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Old 06-26-2013, 06:16 PM   #2
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Check the small cable on the negative side of the battery. It might have ripped off thats what happened to me.
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:42 PM   #3
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Moved to "General Technical Chat".

Hopefully you'll find what you're looking for here.

The Focus ST section was: The place to chat about general questions, window tinting, exterior body, interior and lighting upgrades for the MK3 2013 Focus ST.

It sounds like you're having an anti-theft problem on an MK1 Focus ST170 (SVT Focus as it was sold here).
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:04 AM   #4
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St 170 Pats Problem

Thanks for that. First time on here so wasn't sure where or how to list question.
I will check battery cable today and advise. All fuses are good by the way including the one on the back of the fuse box. "Whats that all about by the way" A hidden fuse !!!!!!!!
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:00 PM   #5
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Big thanks to Pumkin SVT. Negative wire from engine loom to the battery was the problem. Wire had dropped down out of sight when battery was disconnected while fitting fuel pump.
Dash now back to normal, led working and car cranking, however fuel pump not working. Does anyone know if they are coded to the car ???
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultimatestarlet View Post
Big thanks to Pumkin SVT. Negative wire from engine loom to the battery was the problem. Wire had dropped down out of sight when battery was disconnected while fitting fuel pump.
Dash now back to normal, led working and car cranking, however fuel pump not working. Does anyone know if they are coded to the car ???
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ON the pass side kick panel there's a switch for the fuel pump. Push it down thats the inertia switch. See if that helps.
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:36 PM   #7
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Thanks for that. On the drivers side in the UK though lol. It was ok. Dropped the tank and ran a feed and earth and pump worked fine. Re fitted and ran wires from battery to plug that connects to the driver and car started. Result, well almost.... I changed the pump driver at the same time for a second hand one. Now wondering if this needs coded to the car. Sorry for the length of time to respond but I can only look at it when I have the time.... (driver plug was disconnected when I ran the wires by the way...
Thought ??
Thanks
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Old 06-30-2013, 03:18 PM   #8
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My thoughts:
- Excellent, you've proven the fuel pump is good.

- Nothing in the fuel system is "coded" to the car.

- Regarding what you call the fuel pump driver, did you replace it because you knew it was bad, or just making a guess? Were you able to PROVE that the second hand driver worked? My point is do you know that you did not replace a functioning driver with a broken one?

- Sounds like you have an issue getting voltage and/or a ground to the pump. You need a wiring diagram and a multimeter. Have you tested all fuses and relays involved in the fuel system?

Good luck.
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:29 PM   #9
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Thanks for all your help guys. Got my first look at it at the weekend due to work commitments. Got a hold of a wiring diagram and started to pin out the wires from pump driver to PCM. RESULT.
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:31 PM   #10
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Thanks for all your help guys. Got my first look at it at the weekend due to work commitments. Got a hold of a wiring diagram and started to pin out the wires from pump driver to PCM. RESULT. No continuity to pin 40 on PCM. New wire run and all is well.
Best regards to those who took the time to help.
Cheers
John
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