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Old 06-26-2013, 09:27 AM   #21
supernova1
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Bad news: the DRL controller emits lots of RF noise - my radio channels have lots of interference because of this. I will try wrapping the controller in the grounded metal cage, but its wires can function as antennas even in this case.
If this attempt fails, I will remove the DRLs - I do need clean radio channels...
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:28 AM   #22
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Wow that is bad news. These chinese items just dont cut it, problems also with the projector HID sets from China
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:06 AM   #23
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The Echomaster DRLs don't cause any radio interference and also don't require cutting any of that support material. They are horizontal though.
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:32 AM   #24
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You should try telling whoever you bought them from that they are defective. Sometimes these random Chinese companies will just send you the replacement parts if you ask them. I've had my set installed for about a month and no problems with radio interference.
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:45 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Glockboy98 View Post
You should try telling whoever you bought them from that they are defective. Sometimes these random Chinese companies will just send you the replacement parts if you ask them. I've had my set installed for about a month and no problems with radio interference.
Can you please tell me how you connected white wire of the controller? This may relate to the issue I see (I spliced it to the red ACC wire of the controller, but may be it should be connected to the battery + instead).
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:44 PM   #26
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The Echomaster DRLs don't cause any radio interference and also don't require cutting any of that support material. They are horizontal though.
My Philips DRL's also rock solid
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:57 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by supernova1 View Post
Can you please tell me how you connected white wire of the controller? This may relate to the issue I see (I spliced it to the red ACC wire of the controller, but may be it should be connected to the battery + instead).
The only thing you should have to splice is the blue and white wires (if I remember the colors correctly) to the number 10 and 12 pins on the headlight. The red wire on mine just basically hooked under a fuse, then I attached the ground wire. Just make sure to use the (hopefully included depending on where you got it from) plastic wire taps properly. With the cramped space behind the headlight housing I didn't squeeze them tightly enough and had the DRLs on all the time, instead of turning off when the headlights come on.
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:51 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glockboy98 View Post
The only thing you should have to splice is the blue and white wires (if I remember the colors correctly) to the number 10 and 12 pins on the headlight. The red wire on mine just basically hooked under a fuse, then I attached the ground wire. Just make sure to use the (hopefully included depending on where you got it from) plastic wire taps properly. With the cramped space behind the headlight housing I didn't squeeze them tightly enough and had the DRLs on all the time, instead of turning off when the headlights come on.
From what I've read about these types of DRLs, they do not go off when the parking or headlights come on, but merely reduce to 50% luminosity. When the headlights/parking lights are off, like during daytime driving, the DRLs are at full brightness so your vehicle has better visibility to other drivers.
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:02 PM   #29
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Do you have echomasters or chinese/taiwanese vertical drls? The vertical ones I have turn off when the headlights come on. Not sure whether they dim or not once the parking lights come on.

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Old 07-18-2013, 12:36 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glockboy98 View Post
You should try telling whoever you bought them from that they are defective. Sometimes these random Chinese companies will just send you the replacement parts if you ask them. I've had my set installed for about a month and no problems with radio interference.
Yes, I did just that. The supplier sent a new controller to me. As much as I can tell, it has a different electronics inside.
Tried it out, and got the same RF interference as before. It exhibits itself on weak radio stations, and not noticeable on the strong ones. It is unacceptable for me.

I looked at the electronics - they use a booster IC (it takes 12V and converts it to 22-25V to drive constant 260mA current through each chain of 7 LEDs. The IC uses 1MHz switch frequency - potential for RF harmonics.

I found a different IC online - it switches with 20kHz - much less RF interference potential. Drawback of low frequency - it needs huge inductor and caps. Still wait for the some parts, will assemble the circuit once I get them and let you guys know.
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