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Old 06-16-2013, 04:43 PM   #1
bones33
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Duratec 2.3 rod bearing question

So I was getting "the noise" at about mid 2K rpm and thought it was a rod bearing. Removed pan, balancer, #3 & #2 rod cap and Thank The Good Lord, all is well. So, since there is some visible wear, but barely measurable I thought I'd swap in new bearings while I'm in there. The crank looks perfect.

Questions:
1) To prevent the #3 bearing spin, is it advisable to use a sleeve retainer solution, like the permatex stuff to help lock them in place a little better? If so, what brand/type.
2) Since the bolts are yield type, I'd guess they need to be replaced. Rockauto doesn't have them, is the dealer the best place to get them or is there recommended vendor?
3) I'll do the BSD/baffle and add an oil temp sensor to the pan. Is the trap door baffle still available anywhere?

Thanks to all who've discussed the rod subject so far. It's been trumendously helpful to know what to look for, and what's involved with the checkout of problems.


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Old 06-16-2013, 10:29 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bones33 View Post

Questions:
1) To prevent the #3 bearing spin, is it advisable to use a sleeve retainer solution, like the permatex stuff to help lock them in place a little better? If so, what brand/type.
The backsides of engine bearings, and the caps or saddles they rest in, need to be cleaned so there is not even a trace of oil between them.

I have never done a maxda mzr or ford d-tec....
Is there no "tab" on the bearing shells?
Some motors have used a locating dowel on rod bearings, not so much anymore.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
edited to add:
tab-less rod bearings are showing up in new motors, here's a very quick read
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti..._bearings.aspx
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:05 AM   #3
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Yes, TTY bolts need to be changed. If tightened correctly they will not back off, they should break first since deform stretched. Can use loctite, but if you get so much as a smidgen in that bearing kiss rod and maybe engine goodbye. May not be backing off nut so much as big end simply going eggshape, do you dog the motor hard?

As he says, you cannot get that assembly clean enough going back together.
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:58 AM   #4
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Thanks for the link to a good explanation of the tabless type of bearing. It's helpful to confirm how these bearings are designed to be installed.

Keeping oil off the rod will be a little tricky as I'm working on an installed motor. Keeping it super clean will be important to acheive enough friction to keep everything in place.

Now, to figure out how to install a bearing antseptically clean on one side and slathered in assembly lube on the other, underneath an installed, oily motor, with the main caps/girdle installed.

I would've been money/time/hassle ahead doing an oil analysis looking for bearing material instead of taking the rod caps off. I hope others learn from my mistake.
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Old 06-17-2013, 04:11 PM   #5
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Not Fun....

Bearings in place first, Then assembly lube, might be easier...

Luck!
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:25 PM   #6
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Thanks Sailor. I'll use all I can get!
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