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Old 06-14-2013, 12:42 PM   #21
elsolo
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one last time:

Just replace the lock cylinder, it is giving you lots of warning of it's upcoming complete failure.
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Old 06-14-2013, 01:03 PM   #22
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Or radius the edge of the key sticking out of cylinder that faces down, the radius then allows it to bump up and over the groove edge.

Whatever you do don't throw older non-working key away, it has a chip in it that can be removed that matches your PCM. Under the small rectangle on one side of the key's plastic head.
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:13 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsolo View Post
one last time:

Just replace the lock cylinder, it is giving you lots of warning of it's upcoming complete failure.
This

Once you told us the new key worked right initially, then not, it isn't a key issue!
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Old 06-15-2013, 11:17 AM   #24
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Sailor,
that is also my concern to find out what is the cause the cylinder or the key.
Yes the key initiated in the first time without a problem, now I can hardly turn it around in the cylinder, where as the older one works fine. It can open the doors and moves smooth in the locks.
I just hope a new cylinder will solve my problem, I am off to order one.
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:02 PM   #25
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Issues with Ign. lock cylinders were common on early model Focus' over here, with an updated replacement as the repair. Early symptoms were intermittent difficulty in operation - that's why the "guessing" leans that way.

"Stiff" replacement keys (from imperfect copy) seldom get lucky & work smoothly even once. They start out stiff and often get a bit better with use.

Replacement cyl. matched to your keys sounds like a good idea, when the troublesome ones gave out completely an easy swap was no longer possible. "drilling out" a lock, let alone getting stranded, is something to avoid!

Cheers!
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Old 06-16-2013, 07:10 AM   #26
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Quote:
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Replacement cyl. matched to your keys sounds like a good idea
Do you mean that not all cylinders will match any keys? If so how can I find out what type will work with my existing key?
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Old 06-16-2013, 03:08 PM   #27
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Do you mean that not all cylinders will match any keys? If so how can I find out what type will work with my existing key?
It will work with your keys ONCE you put the right tabs in the cylinder to match your current keys.

Or just put not tabs in it (leave it un-keyed) and any key will turn the cylinder, but only one with the right PATS microchip will start it.
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:30 PM   #28
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I finally got around to preemptively replacing my new ignition cylinder, as I will be taking a couple of road trips this summer and don't want to encounter Murphy's Law on some remote country highway.

To recap the cylinder differences, here's a before-and-after pic:



The first step is to remove the dashboard kickplate, and then remove the lower shroud from the steering column. That provides full access to the PATS, which is straightforward to remove:



(The PATS and shroud utilize T20 Torx screws and the kickplate utilizes bolts.)

After the PATS is removed, the old cylinder can be easily slid out by inserting the key and turning to the ACC position, and then applying pressure to the bevelled retainer pin using a slender screwdriver or punch:


Installation of the new cylinder is the reverse procedure (although obviously no need to fiddle with the retainer pin). It bears repeating that the battery should be disconnected prior to starting this job.
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