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Old 06-14-2013, 08:42 AM   #21
MikeD666
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I'll start by testing the grounds I've found later today. I might need to get a nicer ohms meter.

As far as the hatch wiring is concerned, I had no problems previous to my work - and did no work to this area. I'll avoid focus-ing on that for now.

I've also read about funky issues with the blinker handle, instrument cluster, and several ground issues in addition to the hatch wiring.

I'm kinda hoping it is a ground at this point. I feel like most the other stuff is ruled out. I should have access to that second rear hatch switch today as well.

Thanks for your help so far guys.
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:37 AM   #22
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It's not about doing work there, it's about them wearing from opening and closing the hatch plus it's easy to check. Like I've said it's caused some weird weird problems on some people's cars and is worth checking out IMO.
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:46 AM   #23
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I'll pull the harness out there and take a look then. It really isn't much more time compared to what I've invested. Would be odd for that to go wrong while I was working with the wires under the dash. At this point though, I'll follow any lead.

Thanks
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Old 06-15-2013, 03:45 PM   #24
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Ugh. I'm testing every ground I can find. There are 3 just to the right of my battery when looking into the hood of my car. The middle guy was not getting a good reading so I thought I'd clean it. I fought to unscrew the bolt and snapped it. Cleaned the oxidation off the ground that came off. Tested it with cheapo multimeter. I'm receiving 0 resistance when it is not connected to anything....seems wrong. I cleaned chassis where ground was connected - receive a 1 on my ohms reading. I thought I understood how to test for ground, but this is leaving me confused. The ground on the same chasis next to it is testing as zero when checking at wire. Can anybody clear this up?

I've found a handful of grounds, they all tested with 0 resistance so far, and the one checked with 0 resistance when not connected.

I am having trouble drilling out the snapped bolt - gonna work at that for a bit.
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Old 06-15-2013, 04:00 PM   #25
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Scratch that grounding issue. Wire tested with resistance when car in run. Cleaned off chassis better and tested with no resistance. Sounds like that would be normal.

Also wanted to add that hatch wires looked too good of shape for me to tear apart any further.

I'm going to try and stick with the rear defogger circuit still. Awaiting my part to swap to test switch. The harness actually unclips, and I can test at least the first row of exposed wires with ease. I will see if I can stick a staple in and test the second row - but it might prove difficulty to identify what color wire I'm hitting.
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:31 PM   #26
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Those small ones by the battery are good to get fixed, they are famous for causing multiple issues and often look just fine B4 disassembly.

Testing for good grounds is usually by doing a continuity check with one probe on a wire or connector & the other on a known good ground or battery negative. I often use a long test lead hooked to the battery negative so I can wander around touching various grounds to see how good they are. Seldom "0", just very close - there's always SOME resistance in every circuit.

Keep plugin' away there, electrical can be a long process to find what's "obvious" in the end.

Luck!
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:07 PM   #27
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Ready for the un-exciting conclusion?

I swapped parts one at a time from friends focus. Put my heater switch on donor, and it worked fine. Tested wires on harness and they matched mine. Put my GEM on donor and worked fine. Put donor GEM on mine, same issues. Used my instrument cluster on donor and worked fine. Used my blinker on donor and worked fine. I put back in my original GEM since I proved it was not at fault.

I hooked my car back up, the instrument cluster cable seemed more difficult to push in for some reason. It is really either in or out, since it has that 90 degree latch. I tried to push any pins towards the harness as i reconnected anything just because. What do you know? It worked.

Separate story:

Continued to replace the bulbs with LEDs that were way cheaper than I could find for the real replacements (this was more problematic than should had been). I had no idea LEDs had a positive and negative side....about half didn't work at first. I tested them with a 12 volt battery I had lying around. Some worked and some didn't. Tested again later and some that didn't work did, and others that did didn't. Eventually got it right.

Thanks for all the help! I'm pretty good with the wiring schematics now....doesn't mean I want to do it again.

BTW - I used a dremmel to clean up the body near the old ground and drilled in a new one - that is good too.
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:28 PM   #28
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Fixed is wonderful!

Just which connections were the issue hardly matters, they all got cleaned up during the long process and should be OK for a long time now!

Happy to hear your long project is over....

Cheers!
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